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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. GTSBoy
    Well, for a circuit engine, you're probably right. Uh. maybe. But probably not. If you want to try to use rotation to generate centrifugal forces to keep the oil on the outer and gas up the centre then you'd really need to get the oil spinning before it enters the drain hole. Like a cyclone (you know, particle or droplet separator). That way the oil will spin out against the side and sort of stay there. But I doubt that there's a lot of benefit. Certainly not gunna be easy to do either, given cast iron, etc etc. Better to just do all the actually easy stuff.
  2. GTSBoy
    The thread may well be outdated relative to stupid power levels. The engine builders would rather an engine that has oil breathing problems than one that cracks the block, so are being (possibly excessively) conservative. The simple fact remains that more open area is required for gases to go up and oil to go down. However you achieve that is however you achieve that. I have no doubt that many have implemented the vents without drilling the block, which may well prove that you don't need to drill the returns. I don't have much skin in the game, but I think if I was building a moderately serious engine, I would drill the returns out as much as I thought they could take, and put stiffness back in via other means if I was aiming for more power than is actually useful.
  3. GTSBoy
    If you think about the violent thrashing of broken parts between the cam lobe and the valve while it's all flailing away at "over rev" speeds......
  4. GTSBoy
    Is it too simple to say "import wreckers"?
  5. GTSBoy
    I'd be surprised if drilling the drains out would significantly weaken the block. Yeah, sure, when pushing to really big power figures you probably need every little bit of material you can get, but by then I'm sure you're in need of a half grout fill and so on anyway.
  6. GTSBoy
    Interested to know why you would panic. What do you know about it that I don't?
  7. GTSBoy
    Are you still speaking in English?
  8. GTSBoy
    Yes. It would be trivial to do it on any version of HICAS. All you would have to do is trigger a fault by interfering with any of the sensors that the HICAS CU wants to see working. The steering angle sensor would be the obvious one. HICAS will go into "fail safe mode" when faulted. Meaning it won't do anything. I did it on my R32 because I had no steering sensor. I pulled the smaller of the two plugs out of back of the HICAS CU and it put it into failsafe with no dash light (because the dash light is run from that plug!). I claim credit for discovering that hack, more than 20 years ago. But, it is just f**king stupid. Take off and kill HICAS from orbit. It is the only way to be sure. Anyone who wants to keep HICAS working doesn't drive their car hard enough.
  9. GTSBoy
    OK, so, in the same conditions, I have seen my oil temperature go to 120°C. Do you see me panicking?
  10. GTSBoy
    Yeah, where's the problem?
  11. GTSBoy
    The ECCS (or whatever the primitive equivalent is, given that it appears you're talking about an R31) relay is activated by the ECU when the ECU gets power from the ignition, and is held on by the ECU for a short time after power is removed from the ignition. The ECCS relay keeps the ECU powered up. If the output of the ECCS relay is cross-wired over onto the ignition circuit, then it will also keep ignition on after the ignition is turned off, until all power is killed by a battery disconnect or fuse pull. I would look for something like that as a consequence of the immobiliser having bee installed in a weird way, or removed (by you) in a bad way.
  12. GTSBoy
    I'll tell you what it powers. It powers the things that stop working when it is blown or removed. Have you looked at the wiring diagram? I haven't got the the R33 manual here, because...ugh, why would I? But the R34 manual shows many circuit diagrams with numbered fuses. An example being #5, 10A from the ignition switch, running the sunroof & power windows. I'm not suggesting that that's your fuse (although it could be!)....just pointing out the level of detail available in the easily accessible documentation.
  13. GTSBoy
    I've taken to calling it Trumpistan. It has a lot of far eastern European dictator for life vibes going on right now.
  14. GTSBoy
    Fixed that for you again. In case it didn't sink in the first time.
  15. GTSBoy
    As it happens, last night I stumbled across a very nice R34 GTT HDI intercooler with pipes. The cooler has good strong top and bottom plates. The piping is very light and has never been in contact with a fan, so it is well designed. Is at my bro-in-law's workshop - recently acquired with an engine package and therefore available. I have no idea what he wants for it. I can put you in touch if you'd prefer to go that way rather than trying to jam a GTR cooler in.
  16. GTSBoy
    Take it to an auto-electrician. There is no way that we can help solve electrical shorting problems over the internet.
  17. GTSBoy
    It may be a speed hole. But I'd be worried about its mate in the chassis rail.
  18. GTSBoy
    No, you made it fairly clear that you only wanted first hand experience with converted solid lifters. Typically, you never need to adjust the clearances on solid lifters on any factory Japanese engine. They don't wear. Japanese camshafts don't wear*. Japanese lifters/followers/buckets don't wear.* *unless the engine is owned/operated by a moron and not serviced.
  19. GTSBoy
    How about.....every Neo?
  20. GTSBoy
    f**k me! The forklift tine hole in the side of the sill panel!
  21. GTSBoy
    I only have opinions. Because I know what I'm talking about. But seeing as you don't want them, I'm not going to answer.
  22. GTSBoy
    Speed cut defender, to stop the ECU killing the power at 180km/h. Shouldn't affect steering, because that signal is going IN to the ECU.
  23. GTSBoy
    Surely the correct answer is, "who cares?" Perfect excuse to delete HICAS, if it is not already deleted. No-one needs the SAS.
  24. GTSBoy
    I've seen what happens when squirrels put in too many acorns. They get backfires.
  25. GTSBoy
    Walbro 255 is very old. There are newer better from Walbro and others. As Ben says above, define your power level, then that defines your fuel flow. That narrows your range of pumps. E85 being a big variable on that of course, both in terms of capacity and whether the pump is rated to live with ethanol or not. The newer Walbros all are. Older Bosch ones (044, 040, etc) make no promises to survive.
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