GTSBoy

Walbro 255 is very old. There are newer better from Walbro and others. As Ben says above, define your power level, then that defines your fuel flow. That narrows your range of pumps. E85 being a big variable on that of course, both in terms of capacity and whether the pump is rated to live with ethanol or not. The newer Walbros all are. Older Bosch ones (044, 040, etc) make no promises to survive.

Who cares? Because

One is the reverse switch. Connect it to the car's reverse switch wiring. The other is the neutral switch. Connect it to the car's neutral switch wiring. You can work out which one is which at the gearbox end in about 3s with a multimeter. The car side you can work out from the R32 GTR workshop manual that has GTS4 wiring diagrams in it. You will either need to obtain (from a wreck) or make up a driver's side engine/gearbox harness to provide the appropriate wiring, because the automatic one is not 100% useful.

No, for internal aerodynamic performance There would be less bending with what I'm talking about.

I'm with him. Either that, or wiring to a hella hectic high boost switch.

The only foglight switch I have ever seen in an R32 is the one on the binnacle between the rear demister and the headlight switch. I've also never seen it do anything because I don't believe I've ever been within 20 feet of an R32 with foglights.

Well. Yeah. Also, on the topic of what causes oil in the intake tract other than bad PCV valves, the causes include bad turbo seals and f**ked engines. As an extension, causes of actual knocking include oil in the intake tract.

Yes, you should cut the bottom exit off and reroute it out the side of the tank. That's just janky right now.

No, the boost axis on the right clearly shows it making about 2 psi before the line disappears behind the legend. If it makes it as high as 5 psi on that chart I'd be very surprised.

No boost. (look at the chart).

The operative part of Murray's response is...

EFR 7163

Along with agreeing with the recommendations above to ask your local rego authority, I would do this. Cut out original panel segment with the number stamped in it. Keep it. Make new panel with same number stamped in it looking exactly the same as the Nissan stamps. If anyone asks, show them the original panel and the photos of you cutting it out of the same car and holding it next to the new panel being welded in and the photos of you holding it next to the new stamps being done.

It should logically only come one when the fog lights are turned on, which is always on a separate switch. That's kinda the definition of fog lights. If your car doesn't have the switch, it likely doesn't have the factory foglight option .

Sadly, I looked at Amayama and Kudos and couldn't see any. Then I lost interest.

No. Absolutely not. For a start, the turbo has a 4" inlet. The Z32 is a major restriction, which is not recommended. Next, the Z32 is a bad choice for an AFM in the era of modern blade style AFMs. Just get an R35 and a suitable sized tube (preferably 3.5") and set it up in Nistune. And, obviously, you should fabricate a 4" intake and do something about opening up the hole in the airbox. The injectors are fine. I'm willing to bet that the dump that suits the stock turbo does not suit Tao's big bolt ons.

The latter quote happens more with short shifters. it is a proven fact. More synchros have died at the hands of clowns slamming gears with their hella epic short shifter (TM) than almost any other driving style.

Google translate on your phone can use the camera to translate the Kanji on the wiring diagrams.

Because Ben doesn't think that anyone will ever completely dismantle an RB25DE R32 and do a complete inventory of the bolts, which is the only way you're going to get that list at this point in time.

Yes. Why wouldn't it be? It's also possible to swap in a 1976 Volvo 144 motor, a Cummins diesel V8, various rotaries, any number of Italian 4 cylinder engines and maybe even a Jaguar V12.

Lotsa $ to buy new hydraulic lifters. You need 24 of the buggers. I have a Neo, so I am biased towards solid lifters. But it's also lotsa $ to go solids in a vanilla RB head. So you pick your poison. I haven't used these cams, but Kelfords stuff in general is excellent. However, I don't know if it is worth the pain of the head clearancing work for just the little extra lift. If I was going to cut the lifter bores, I'd be wanting to do it for 10.5mm or more.

Keep in mind that short shifters are, as a rule, f**king stupid. They are unpleasant to use, lead to synchro wear. Stock is best.

Weirdest choice of hotrod engine ever?

Max revs less a function of the cam itself and more a function of the hydraulic lifters. The springs will "enable" more revs that the stock springs would, with these cams installed. The cams will flow more air above 7500 rpm than the stock cams will. So the head will want to run to higher rpm. It's just that the lifters are the same, and unless you put new ones in there their actual behaviour is hard to predict. With new lifters, because hydraulic, you'd probably not be looking to run more than 8000rpm anyway.

No. No reason at all. Unless you like wasting money. Just buy a new centre to suit the open diff. The differences are in the half shafts. They are all different lengths between the different standard diff types. Open = different lengths to VLSD = different lengths to the GTR mechanical LSD. So when you buy a Kaaz or Giken or Cusco centre for an open diff, it is slightly different to the same diff intended to replace a VLSD centre, because the splines are located differently. The new centre has to work with the half shaft lengths that you have.