GTSBoy

Tells the ECU that you're loading up the engine. Wiring diagram tells all.

You can test if the factory one is opening under boost by simply blocking it off with a coke can gasket. You're not looking for the differences anywhere except when making boost.

NS70MF 650 CCA. This is essentially the physically largest and largest capacity battery you can drop into the stock location.

Is that true - as in outright replacement, or is it just the pro-rata replacement?

Century Yuasa.

Yes, absolutely.

Sump vent, rather than wasting money on the PRP rear head drain. The oil control thread tells all. Oil cooler?

Yeah, but only with appropriate adapters at each end. Kinda makes the use of AN fittings on the end of the hose itself a bit of a waste of time.

How could you make it out of AN fittings when there are not AN fitting on the PS pump or the rack? You have whatever fittings Nissan put on there. But these will just be a hydraulic fitting of one sort or another, so if you took the PS line into a hydraulic hose doctor place, they should be able to knock something up.

Some stupid biatch been driving around with the brake on.

Some crowd like this https://www.activeservice.no/services

As Kinkstaah said above. The turbo box is about double the weight of the NA box. You do know that you can google these things, right? Google up the RB25DE gearbox and look at the images. Then same for the turbo box. There are even photos of them side by side. About 4000000000 words have been written about these things on this forum in the last 25 years and that when you google you will get an endless stream of hits right here.

Must be time to bump this.

When you say "intact", do you mean "it's there and it's bent", or "it's not damaged at all"? Because if it is not damaged at all then you repair does start to sound like what you want it to be. You may still have to straighten some stuff up to get guards and bumper to line up, because there is obvious damage on the LH front corner. But if the rad support is bent, then obviously it will need to be straightened, and if it is bent then the front end of the chassis rails might not be straight either. In which case your repair is going to take some proper chassis work.

Cracks not required.

Are you in the right thread?

Tappy tap tap.

It also appears to be mostly FWD.

If it's missing at idle because something (a coil or the igniter) is hot then you can try to cool each one down with compressed air while it's missing to see if it comes good.

The GTR isn't wider in a way that would impact on the diffuser itself fitting. It's not like the diffuser attaches to the bottom edges of the guards. It attaches inboard. Those spats/pods that are bolted to the outer ends of the diffuser do interface with the guards though. And the GTR guards are ever so slightly wider than the Skyline guards, even right down the bottom there. So, you might expect that the upper edges of those pods would be loose/not contacting the Skyline guards. Whether you could make them sit inwards and line up everywhere as simply as slotting the bolt holes in the bottom....dunno. It would go very very close though. The real question should be, do they do it with less ugly pods/spats than the ones in the photo? Those are f**king hideous, with all that curvy bullshit hanging out in the breeze behind the wheel. I can promise you that they will get the shit kicked out of them from stones, dirt, etc off the back tyres too.

No aftermarket (larger) cam is going to bring your boost on earlier. Any longer duration will only move the power curve to the right. You can of course change the opening and closing event timing by a few degrees with adjustable cam gears. You could do this on stock cams to try to reduce overlap and move the curve to the left a little. Increased cam lift is "free" power and can improve boost response by getting more gas flowing at lower revs. But more lift is seldom available without more duration. So it's nearly impossible to tease apart the response benefit from increased lift on a Poncam from the penalty from increased duration. And these are usually installed with gears, so it gets further muddled. Poncams are far and away not the best choice for baby cams. There are a couple of Australian and NZ cam manufacturers who do more interesting cams, combining modest increases in duration with the largest lift that can still "drop in", or even better, with lift that requires clearance machining of the head.

The chassis number will always be for a GT. There is no sense in converting a GT into a GTT for almost any reason at all. But doing it for drift is the worst reason of all. If making a drift car, just drop an LS3 into it and be done with it. It will be 20x the drift car with a suitable engine in it.

500HP on a roller dyno, hub dyno or at the engine?

I find it difficult to assist people who want to drift these cars to an early grave. Drifting an S chassis to death makes me less sad.