GTSBoy

Yes. Yes it could. External venting BOVs are an opening to atmosphere, which is a kiss of death on air flow metered cars. Why would you fit one?

Coils. Did the S1s still have the igniter? If so, igniter. AFM solder joints, just possibly getting crackly when the engine bay gets hot. Same with CAS, CAS connector pins, coil wiring, etc.

R32 peeps are all aware of the early/late differences. No shame in not knowing. Just no internet points either.

Or you could have done something bad to the front end. Loading it via the radiator will put unpleasant forces into the radiator support panel, which is not supposed to carry any actual loads. May have pulled the front ends of the chassis rails inwards.

? Amayama, Nengun, various other places like JustJap. eBay also.

I wouldn't be worried about that little bend much. I would be worried about what other effects there might have been from dropping the weight of the car onto the balancer/crank as a whole might have done.

I think Kiwi might have confused himself.

I was going to say https://www.haltech.com/product-category/nissan/stagea-wc34/ or something similar.

Why are you shopping on eBay for all this stuff?

No. The NA box is a skinny little twig. The turbo box is huge. But you can put RB clutches on RBs of any stripe. By the way. That (eBay clutch) is the cheapest, nastiest looking thing I have ever seen. Spend a thousand $$.

Sticky shit FTW.

As far as I know there is no difference in the panels back there apart from the guard flares. They're definitely interchangeable on the earlier models, for example. No concrete yes/no from me. But I'd be terribly surprised if they don't swap.

Paste from IM. Leading suspicion then is that one of them is misbehaving. Turning power on and off. Those relays adjacent the ECU (well, at least one of them) is the ECCS relay, controls power to the ECU, and hence everything else. When you turn on the ignition, power goes to a terminal on the ECU. The ECU then turns on an output that energises the ECCS relay, that provides power to most things that are needed to run the engine. When you turn the ignition off, the ECU holds that output on for a number of seconds before pulling the power. Turbo timers act to keep ignition power on after you turn the engine off. They are a leading suspect in this sort of shenanigans. Immobilisers/alarms act to chop power off in that circuit and they can also cause shit. Turbo timers are stupid. You should get rid of it anyway.

Just instate the charge light in the circuit? As per the original wiring diagram?

Have you got an alarm or a turbo timer?

RB20 + M90 supercharger + GT42 turbo. 30 psi ought to do it.

Is it a Lucas injector?

But as ugly as sin!

To be fair though, on a roller dyno that's more informative than the native roller rpm number and it at least intrinsic to the measuring device.

Is this the same Yoshiii from a couple of years back?

I let you hang for a while before replying, because you're not as funny as you think you are.

The speed reading is axle speed. That is equal to engine speed multiplied by the gearbox ratio (which really should be 1) and the diff ratio. It's not hard. Unless you don't know the diff ratio. If you don't know the diff ratio, you have to guess and take the hit on the possible error. Most R chassis are going to be 4.11:1. Autos either 4.08 or 4.36.

There's nothing going on in that engine that a Haltech can't handle.

In these Nissans the speed sensor in the gearbag sends a +/- 1V AC signal to the speedo head. The speedo head converts that into a 0-5V PWM square wave and puts it out on the line that goes to the ECU, TCU, HICAS CU, etc.

I was holding onto the edge of the wooden desk the whole time I was typing!