GTSBoy

Um...that thing looks terrible. I'd be looking for replacements tout de suite. WTF is it made of? Die cast cardboard?

Even GKTech's short nuts are only intended for 15mm spacers, and the OP's look like they might be only 10mm. So he'd have to rely on pockets in the wheel hub face to accept what sticks out past the spacer's face.

Yes, an R34 workshop manual is downloadable. The R32 GTR one which is findable everywhere would also do the job, seeing as almost all those bolts are same-same enough.

Obviously you need shorter studs (don't just cut the original studs off!) and really short nuts that will fit in the spacer. Thus exposing the problems with thinner bolt on spacers.

Nah. There's not shit tonnes of pressure in there. Just drill with a 1.5mm drill or something equally tiny. When the drill goes all the way through thee gas will start to come out, but with such tiny path through the flutes of the drill bit, it won't be at all dangerous. You can be as paranoid as you like from then on. I'd just pull the drill out while keeping my face out of the line of fire. But then, I spend half my time looking into pressurised furnaces. So my risk acceptance is somewhat higher than most!

Drill hole to release pressure. Draw circle around hole with pink paint pen. Put in scrap metal bin/take to scrappy's. Walk away.

Let's just fix the problem by f**king the rest of the gearbox.

Unlikely, as per Greg's post. This is not helical diff behaviour unless one wheel is up off the ground. Shimming what? You don't "shim" a mechanical LSD. Probably not in the sense that you have heard of people "shimming" a diff. And the process that Nissan f**kwits call "shimming" a diff involves super-preloading a VLSD cartridge against the side of the diff to create a friction/wear point (in a place that it wasn't supposed to have one) to make the sloppy, useless, viscous diff into a hybrid viscous/mech abortion. In case it isn't clear, I consider the process to be stupid. Nike.

No. Well, some people "seem to use redline shockproof in the diff". Most do not. I would only contemplate it if you have badly worn CW&P gears. And no. No-one in their right mind has ever put ATF into a diff. Any normal diff/gear oil of the right viscosity will do. Whatever takes your fancy. Castrol, Nulon, Penrite, Redline MT range. Whatever. It's just gears. 75W-90 or 80W-90 is typical. I think that GL-5 is hard to avoid these days, although I think that a GL-4 is probably preferred, given the vintage of the equipment. At least Redline offer a number of GL-4 oils. If you have a clutch type LSD instead of the VLSD, then of course you need a proper LSD oil. Anything from any of the same names above. If you have a helical LSD, then it does not require LSD oil, and the recco is the same as for the VLSD. You don't want the LSD friction modifiers in the oil for a non-clutch type LSD if you can avoid it.

I don't, and I wouldn't.

Yeah, there's a bit of a density and friability difference between pebbles and any of those other things. Silicone will definitely float in oil and so will be mobile enough to move around. Although, again, if it is upstream of the filter it really shouldn't go any further. I would only ever worry about silicone when it is in places downstream of the filter. Upstream of the pickup is a whole 'nother matter. We've all seen what that does. I have seen the most abominable crap settled out in industrial gearboxes, trunnion lube systems and the like, without any sign that any of it has touched anything in the machine. Just chilling in the bottom, waiting for the inevitable operator error that causes the whole machine to need to be dismantled for repairs.

Bah. You could literally throw a handful of gravel into the sump with the fresh oil and that is where it will stay. Screen on pump inlet, filter on pump outlet. No grit is getting to the rubby bits. Not saying to try it, but paranoia is unjustified.

Take it from a Chemical Engineer. It will be just fine.

Yeah, even here in SA they used to not allow coilovers if they could be adjusted (down) after they'd been inspected and "passed" at Regency, because....you could just drive away and lower it. But now they take the view that they may as well just pass them, and if you lower it below the limit then it's on you when you get defected and they will make your life harder on the subsequent clearance inspection.

Meh. Every single gear in my gearbox will crunch. I've been treating it nicely for >12 years now.

Why would you ever need to "hard change down" from 5th to 4th? Any time you're in 5th and need serious accel, you're looking to go down to 3rd or maybe even 2nd, anyway. Just treat your 30 year old gearbox with some respect.

I'd say if you put the cap on loosely and left it there for, say, 10 years, it would still be fine.

Yeah, it's bullshit.

Would you care to explain the logic behind that statement?

But don't throw away the unused oil in the opened bottle. That's just daft.

Rack boot? Green liquid is more likely to be coolant that got there somehow during some previous terrible event. What does it taste like?

If doing that ^, I'd take the idle up valve out and plug the hole in the pump.

It's a load sense idle up valve.

Plug and play. Need a tune. It's a PowerFC, same as any other PFC, just not needing an AFM.

Genuine GTR seat? There are none you would actually want for <$3k a pair.