GTSBoy

Hi All, Sort of a humble brag masquerading as useful information. Whilst almost every other part of my car is currently falling apart, apparently the engine is in pretty good condition. My bro'-in-law just did a compression test on it (for reasons, explained below). The compression tester in question shall be regarded as being 100% trustworthy (for reasons, explained below). Anyway, engine with well over 150000 km (I can't be bothered doing the sum required to work it out right now) tested at 175 psi on all cylinders. Nice. We should consider that to be a reference compression test reading for a good Neo. The story. Bro'-in-law comp tested an RB20 last week that had 3 at 115, 2 at 100 and one at 90, or something like that. Could not believe it because there was no signs of low compression in the way it behaved. It started quick and clean, drove perfectly, didn't smoke a lot, made decent power (for an RB20). So with some suspicion now placed on the comp tester, he compared it against 3 different digital manometers and it came up the same on all of them. So the gauge itself got a clean bill of health. Wanting to prove out the hose and fittings and such, he did the test on my (known to be pretty good) engine, which proved that the comp tester appears to be totally reliable. Thus, the RB20 is pretty buggered, and my engine is doing really well.

It will be the coils. The first time was because of heat soak in the carpark. I can't imagine how any R chassis car can still be driving around on the original coils.

Evo drivers belting the hell out of the kerbs is why they break.

All of this is wrong. This is OK, but unnecessary, because This is wrong Do you hate your driveline?

Jeezus titty f**king Christ! I was talking about the very best option being the NISSAN VISCOUS CLUTCH.

This thread makes my head hurt.

You have an open diff. It is a normal R200. I suspect that it has 3x2 stub axles, not the 5 bolters on the turbos. This is important, because when you buy a Nismo diff, you have to get the one to suit YOUR CHASSIS, because you need the stubs to match. It is not hard to find a search result for a mechanical LSD to suit an NA R34. You do not want a 2-way Nismo for the street.

No. Wrong statement. If you have a lot of fan noise, then the problem is the viscous clutch is stuffed and all you need to do is replace it with a GENUINE NISSAN clutch. Do not f**k about with aftermarket off brand clutches, because they all suck compared to the genuine Nissan one. I know about these things.

Just probe a dashlight or plug C's pins 5 & 11. It will either be perma-powered and the lightswitch gives it earth, or the power will be at the switch and the globes all have one side direct to earth. Once you work that out, it's just a matter of how you get the signal to the IC7. If the power is at the switch and there is nothing at the dash unless the switch is on, then it's easy. Just tap off the wire at pin 11. If there is constantly hot power there, then you tap off at pin 5 and you set the IC7 to the inverse behaviour of the voltage seen at pin 5. Dash (IC7) lights on when pin 5 is low, dash (IC7) lights off when pin 5 is high.

VK56DE or go home.

Nah. You know how the master cylinder has the main "tube" in line with the pushrod through the booster, and then there's also a second "tube" that is offset off to one side (and usually slightly lower or slightly higher than the main tube)? (See image). Well, that's where the bias is controlled. And that's why the two different BM57s in these Nissans can have two different bias curves. Becuase it comes down to springs and port locations and such.

Bias is actually a separate thing. Beyond just the simple brake size differences front to rear (rotors and pistons) the MC itself has an internal bias valve. There is a currently active thread on the BM57 that you should read. Not all MCs of the same type (ie, marked BM57) even have the same characteristics. The Z33 MC could be just about anything. Better than other options, worse than other options, same as other options.

With return flows you necessarily have a core with less height, by about the diameter of the return pipe. That means the core has that much less area for flow, will present a higher pressure drop. The outlet on the return side tank is usually not ideal either. The flow has to turn through 180° in a short radius. Will always lead to a larger pressure drop than normal cross flow outlets. For all that - it's what I've got and I would happily stick within the power limitations imposed by it, if having a return flow was something I wanted to keep doing. And for a street car, it's a pretty desirable thing. If you want to make more silly power levels, you have to start giving up on things that are nice to have (for installation ease, more stock look, etc) in favour of things that work better for the power.

RPF1s are some of the lightest wheels available that do not require you to surrender a kidney and one or more children. But they are not forged. They are definitely not forged. And that makes their relative lightness even more impressive.

I jack on the diff. As I said before. And, as I said, it's not ideal, but what are you going to do? It's strong enough. Just need to be careful. As I said before also, I put my chassis stands under the subframe, just where the lower arm inner pivots are. Again, it's a long way from ideal, but there really is nowhere else that I want to consider. The subframe is strong enough, so no chance of damaging it. But you have to be really careful to position the chassis stands just right so that they don't crush the arm brackets, don't support just one one edge , etc etc. Again, it's be careful about what you're doing. Then, if I have to be under the rear, I leave the jack under the diff, just not holding any weight, and I'll usually put some wheels under the car as double insurance if I'm going to be doing anything involving enough leverage on the car that I might have a bad day.

They don't exist. The diff is acceptable, but not ideal. The front crossmember is a long way from ideal, but workable if you are careful. I use a wooden block as a load spreader under the front crossmember, to prevent the spikes on the jack's bowl from chewing it up.

Not a 1.5 way. Not even really an LSD in my opinion.

Trolley jacks do have wheels and do move forwards as you lift the car. As usual, it's about how you use the tool.

That's the one bad thing about Neos, compared to 26s. Typically OHC engines with shims have them under the bucket. Makes them harder to change if you need to set the clearances, but also much less likely that they will get dislodged in a valve float event. Shim over bucket is "better" (read as cheaper) for the manufacturer and that little better for access if you have to redo the clearances, but they are far more likely to get spat out. Neos have a small reputation for spitting shims. Possibly not justified, all third hand stories, etc.

I'd say if it's not a spat out shim (and Neos are shim over bucket so it would be dead easy to see if it was spat), then I'd be dead worried that the VCT gear was about to explode. I wouldn't have driven that for more than the time taken to get it down to the workshop and the head off.

That's the sound of mechanical shit beating itself to death. I cannot believe that you have driven it that way for 3 years.

The engine builder might think it's "fine", but that's a f**king bodge job.

Cut open the weld. Open it back up so that it is round. Weld on a new bit of tube to extend it back so it will accept the inlet hose. Job done?

I've bought some trim pieces from a US dealer in the last year because they had them at better pricing than I could see elsewhere.

I was going to say..... "There's rust in those photos?" Nothing there. Buy it, assuming there's nothing else wrong with the car.