GTSBoy

Better to just go through the thread first. There's 30 years of experience in there.

There's a whole thread on wheels fitting Skylines. Stickied up the top of the appropriate part of the forum. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

The standard ECU thinks that there should be a TCS/ABS ECU present. If there is not, there will be fault codes. The TCS/ABS CU, if it is present, will be freaking out because you have lopped off its throttle motor and position sensor. There will also be ECU fault codes because of this. Nistune is the only way to make a standard ECU work nicely under this level of abuse. The Neo ECU is fairly obsessive compulsive about a few things.

They both move air from front to back.

Is the fuel rail plumbed up the right way? And, if you have the stock ECU, and you have deleted the original TB, including the traction control TB, then you are in for a world of pain. You will have to Nistune the ECU to get rid of the CEL.

Still not clear what you want. Are you wanting the size of the stock GTR cap where it goes into the stock wheel? Are you wanting the size of the cap that would suit your wheels (presuming that you don't have GTR wheels)? Are you wanting to know how big the GTR text font is?

No. The OP6 is on the turbine housing, not the turbine. The housing could have been machined out/reprofiled in a highflow operation to suit a completely different turbine inside. As Duncan said, you have to know what is in the core also, to know whether it is still completely stock.

Everything you would want to know about the wiring for this is in the R32 GTR wiring diagrams in the freely downloadable workshop manual.

And the whole idea of TCF is a bullshit anyway. We all generally work on the idea that a DD roller dyno will read about 75% of the engine power at the rollers. That is NOT lost in the transmission. Some of it is, but the bulk of it is lost at the rollers. There is tyre slip and deformation on any roller. A huge amount of energy is lost to friction. If you don't tie the car down hard then you lose more to slip. If you do tie it down real hard, you 'll lose less to slip, but lose some more to deformation of the tyre. (I would suggest that deformation is a much smaller proportion than slip though). AWD rollers have the opportunity to lose more power at the rollers, because 2x the number of rollers. But....with the same amount of engine power, because the power is less at each roller, there will be much less slip at each roller. So AWD cars might lose a bit more power than a 2WD car, but they could also lose a little less. Probably lose more in big power applications and lose less in low power, but I'm just guessing. The 2WD thing was then further confused by people saying that the losses in FWD transmissions are less than in RWD transmissions. Now, whether that is true or not is not really important, because most of the power "lost" is still lost at the tyre-roller interface, not in the transmission. So out of the 25% "loss" that we pretend is a constant for RWD cars, maybe only 5-10% of it is in the transmission. And if FWD cars are more efficient in the transmission, then you might only save 1% out of that. So the total losses should still be in the region of 25% for FWD cars too. The real situation is certainly nothing like saying RWD cars lose 25%, FWD cars only lose 15-20% and AWD cars lose 30-35%. Because those statements simply cannot be true in general. It is close enough for RWDs on DD dynos. It might be a little different for RWDs on other roller dynos (due to calibration differences, roller diameter differences, roller surface texture differences, etc). It is definitely different on Amercian roller dynos, which have an input field in the software for "How much power did you want?" And I won't talk about inertia dynos because they suck. Hub dynos are great because all the tyre-roller losses just go away. You measure power much more close to what the engine is capable of, less only that which is turned into heat in the drivetrain. And that number is nowhere near as big as people think it is. If it was, then a 500HP car would boil the oil in a typical diff in a single dyno pull. Certainly after a few repeated pulls. It doesn't happen, therefore the losses in the drivetrain are smaller than people think.

http://gtr-registry.com/en-nissan-skyline-r33.php

No.

Um, yeah. Driveshaft out is step 1.

Nope. You have to get rid of rust before covering it up. Now it can continue to eat steel behind the cover of hammerite.

Not possible unless you f**k up the bleeding. What do the ratios of piston areas look like, Sumitomo caliper vs Evo caliper? Surely you did this research before you bought the kit.

You need good circlip pliers and some pullers and stuff. The difficulty is "rebuilding gearbox diy", is being able to source the parts you need when you open it up and find 50 different things are f**ked.

Are you asking if it's an R34 turbo? Because if so, you've already answered your own question.

You would be well advised to get a mobile thread repair guy to come and do this for you. They do it by muscle memory alone without the risk of you completely cocking it up (which you have to acknowledge, is a substantial risk!!). As to the pitch on the bolts....you have the other bolts right there. Just measure it with a vernier caliper. M6 is usually 1.0mm

Yuh, but....... whilst they might have had a Garrett compressor cover, I thought that they were still the same Hitachi core, with the same ceramic turbine and nylon compressor - which is something that Garrett themselves weren't f**king with at the time.

A boost gauge is not needed at all. Turn the boost up until it goes slower and blows huge plumes of black smoke. then turn it up a little bit more. If the turbine doesn't explode into little fragments that you can collect as souvenirs from the cat converter, then turn the boost up a little bit more.

RPF1 FTMFW.

There is no Garrett turbo. There is a Hitachi turbo. There is nothing Garrett about it. The safe boost limit for the turbo is not important. That's because the ECU will shit itself and make your life miserable before you even get there. FWIW, the ceramic turbine on the stock turbo is likely to self destruct at any boost over 12 psi. Might last years at 12 psi. Might die the next day. At 14 psi, it might also last years, or might die on the first boost run. It's a lottery, best avoided by not exceeding 11 or 12 psi. As to the rest of the car, the stock ECU will start making the air fuel ratio ridiculously rich as you go over 10 psi (stock boost is 7). By the time you're at 11 you're probably going slower than when you were at 9. The ECU will also pull timing more than a 14 year old with a Hot 4s magazine with a slapper draped over a Honda on the cover. That will also contribute to the slows. And to top it off, as you get up towards about 12 psi the ECU will do horrible things like completely cut the ignition when it reckons the signal from the AFM is too high, or if it detects too much from the ECU's boost sensor. There are NO WORKARUNDS for this that do not involve dealing directly with the ECU. You can Nistune the ECU, or you can replace it completely. But you have to do it if you want more. And.....all of this has been posted on these very forums about a billion times. So I don't know why I have repeated it.

White. GTSt that looks like a GTR.

The injector wires are identified at the ECU pinout. Just work from first principles.

55W. 100W is not a thing. Globes that bright have never really been legal anywhere that Nissan wanted to sell cars** **Excepting shithole 3rd world type places. Also, 100W will destroy your lights.

Yah, see the back face of those spokes is not very far from the hub face. That's a function of both the style of the wheel/spoke and the offset. A lower offset wheel might give you more room there because there would be more meat in the hub face, even if nothing else changed. But other wheels will have a deeper recess for the wheel nuts and the spokes are therefore further out, or curve out a bit more, etc etc. Anyway, those wheels look to be about the worst possible for brake clearance (that still clear!).