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GTSBoy

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Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. It's not really limp mode. It's just the ECU chucking the sads. they don't cope. You have to go into the DTC stuff and switch off the offending codes. The doco should tell you how. I have a Neo in an R32. No TCS, no ABS. I had to fix all that stuff. It also pays to get the Nistune board programmed as a Stagea in the first place, because they don't have TCS.
  2. Surely you don't have to join to read?
  3. But for mild engines it's not as much trouble. So it depends how hard you want to lean on it too.
  4. More than likely. Unless colour is an issue after all.
  5. Yuh, but that's the point. They sucked when new and they only got suckier as they aged and wore and stopped working even as well they originally did (which was not that well). Aussies have been living with this shit for >20 years. We have no rose-tinted glasses when it comes to this sort of piss poor engineering.
  6. When I say "press out" I don't mean "break out". On the R32 these are all tabbed in with clips that can go in and out as many times as you like.
  7. Like all Nissan electronic control ideas of the era, the technology wasn't as good as the idea, and after 25 years, they don't work properly (as in, not even as well as they worked when they were new). Even in the EVOs, which at about EVO9 era (ie much later than GTRs) had something very similar, the active diff is a piece of shit that everone who drives them hard wants to rip out and replace with the simple mech diff out of an RS. They offer very changeable performance and you can't trust them to always give you the drive you need. HICAS sucks. The active diffs suck. Viscous diffs suck. Ceramic turbos suck. There is a lot of suck to be removed from these cars.
  8. You talking about the bit I circled? $1 gives you 5 that the holes are not "cut out". They would be "press out". And the chances that they are different colours between a V spec and and normal GTR and even a 2WD car is more a case of $5 gets you 1. All the same would be my first response.
  9. Probably. They really pack the sulks in hard if not given everything they want. Of course, there could be heaps of other problems. Dose's suggestion above is really sensible, because it cuts through a whole pile of shit you have to wade through if trying to get a stock ECU'd transplant working in a foreign car. There are so many things that can trip you up.
  10. I wouldn't even bother asking that question until you work out whether you need to spend another $5k on engineering before you'd even be allowed to do it. I'm in SA. We have it much better than the Nazi state that you live in. But even here it is strictly illegal to just throw a turbo onto a car. You must get approval from Regency (our Vicroads) before you start, and they will demand engineering where it is needed, and I'm pretty sure that turboing a vehicle that never had a turbo variant will require engineering.
  11. Did it come from a GT-T? Had traction control and ABS originally? Is the ECU Nistuned? If you answered yes to either of the 1st 2 questions and no to the latter, then you're f**ked. The stock ECU will pack a sulk if you don't have the traction control CU and the ABS CU all happily talking to it. If you have Nistune, you can cancel that shit out and make it work. Has it been working before and is this a new problem, or has it never worked?
  12. You do not want that turbo. It appears to be all sorts of silly. Funky exhaust inlet flange, possibly crazily small compressor. What you want is a VL Turbo type turbo. Something with a T3 inlet, sensibly arranged to sit on a stock VL turbo manifold with the inlets and outlets facing in the right directions. An RB25 or VG30 turbo would also be appropriate.
  13. What do you know about "modifications to the intake system" in Victoria? The short version is that turbo conversions are almost impossible. Certainly not without full engineering. You should look at the Vicroads site to find out what the rules are.
  14. Turbo + fuel system + ECU + intercooler + pipework + exhaust manifold + oil&water plumbing to/from turbo + exhaust + dump pipe + installation work for oil supply and drain, etc. + tuning. The list really should include upgraded brakes. Oh, and you're in Victoria. So what you are proposing is not road legal. You will need to pay for engineering.
  15. Or....have you looked at the online catalogues of companies that make them and list them? I can think of at least 2, right off my head, being Bosch and Tridon. Hell, there are dozens of listing on eBay for wipers for all the Skylines. They usually tell you what length the blades are. top listing on eBay says 18". I have seen eBay listing for R34 saying both are 18", which is a little hard to believe when R32 are 20" on RHS and 18" on LHS.
  16. Should really go talk to a gearbox&diff specialist who might have knowledge of the internals of these active diffs to find out what they think it would take to jam one of the available mech centres in. When you get right down to it, they are still an R200 case and otherwise very similar. Maybe it's just the side bearings spacing or something that makes it hard, and with a little effort or shim/spacer swappsies or use of a centre intended for a Toyota.something else or any of a bunch of hopefully not difficult things, make something work. Ideally you'd want to use the original stubs and half shafts, but if you had to swap to something else, say the Nismo ones that come with Nismo centres, that would surely have to be palatable enough to the wealthy GTR owner with a bung active diff.
  17. Yeah. Nah. There is no such thing as an R32 with only 96 kkms. They all had at least that much 15 years ago.
  18. Oooh. That's a shame. Stupid f**king idea.
  19. Yeah, but still. GTRs only have 2 sorts of diffs. The normal one is mechanical 2-way. No reason to talk about that any more. The other is NOT a VLSD. It is the active diff. The V-spec diff. You are right, there are no mech centres to replace those, but there's also not very many of them out there, so why would anyone bother putting the effort into developing product?
  20. And that's the point. As I said, there are plenty of mech LSD centres to go into VLSD housings.
  21. I doubt that you could weld it. It's got hydraulic actuated clutches inside it and other shenanigans. Plugging up the hole where you pulled a hydraulic line out of it is the least of your worries! And it is not altessa either. It's ATTESA. And what you have is not ATTESA. It is just active diff bullshit. ATTESA is 4WD. Which you don't have.
  22. No. Not right. There is little difference between VLSD and mech LSD (and in fact, the open diffs in NA cars etc) when it comes to the housing. There are literally dozens of mech LSD options for VLSD diffs. All of the usual suspects (Cusco, KAAZ, Nismo, etc etc, and many more) have mech diff replacements for VLSD and open R200 centres. The only mech diff centres on any R chassis cars were the GTR 2-way mechanicals. And I suppose the helical diffs on some R34s can be consider mechanical too, just not in the same way. That's why they are rare and expensive. What there is not, is something to easily put a mech centre into one of the ACTIVE diffs from the M-specs and V-spec GTRs. Because they make it difficult, and there was only a small number of them, and there are other diffs you can grab to put in their place.
  23. A 235 would be a good size if there was an appropriate profile to give the right diameter, but there really isn't. If you're willing to put up with a change in diameter, you could do that. 245 is a little too wide for an 8" rim. Somewhat baggy, especially on a 16, where you end with a lot of sidewall height bagging out.
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