GTSBoy

Look at the dates on those posts.

I thought you said you had a good car. There's your good battery. Just bring the power over with the jumper leads.

It's even worse than that. There are locating dowels at the front you have to remove, and while the front left will bolt in, it twists the alignment of the seat runners. The floor/beam is a different height in that corner on 34s. I gave up trying to fit 34 seats to my 32 after a few attempts. Not worth the f**karound.

Well.....look for the parasitic drain. Start at the battery. Put the multimeter on a current setting in between a terminal and the loom. If you find (significant) current flowing, then proceed to do the same at each fuse. But I'd be willing to bet that you're alternator is not working correctly, based on what you say about what happens when you connect it to a car that has a working alternator.

As Ben said above. In addition, it's not 1983 any more. You can have compression + turbo. anyone building a DET up these days should be looking to increase compression from what the factory had.

Yeah, now, it's not really the same thing at all is it? R33 gearbox

I would suggest you could save back the cost of a Nistune in fuel consumption alone, in a couple, maybe 4 years, everything being stock and doing ~20000km/y. And it would be better to drive. So.....it's not a bad proposition.

We're not talking about an ECU. We're talking about Nistuning the stocker, which allows you to improve all the little details that are not right, like the fact that the mixtures are too rich most places and WAAAAAY too rich once you add boost. I can tell you with 100% certainty that my car, which is basically a stock Neo (standard AFM, standard injectors, standard turbo) would not be drivable at all without the Nistune in it. The TP cut that you get somewhere around 11 psi is absolutely f**king brutal. You also get weird random bullshit triggered by the boost sensor that you can override once it is tunable. And that's without me needing to have it just to deal with the ABS & TCS fault codes. My car would also be a shit tonne slower and would use about 20% more fuel without the maps being cleaned up. I know this because it has been there before I did it.

I'm with Trel. You can pull out all the excess fuel everywhere, but especially in the R&R region of the map. You can dial in that little extra advance where it helps bring the boost on and driving off boost in gneral. You can get rid of the annoying limiters if you need/want. You can dial the idle speed down to 600rpm and save some juice at the lights (It DOES work). You can interrogate the ECU when you have problems, etc etc etc. Worth it, just for those benefits. If you want 10+psi, it's essentially compulsory.

Mental notes; The above is valid for electric HICAS, like 33 & 34. Not same same for hydraulic 32 HICAS. I shudder when I see chassis stands under the rear end of the chassis rails. It's too far forward for a stable support and it puts a lot of leverage from the mass of the rear of the car on the contact points and drives dents into the chassis rails. I prefer to locate them carefully under the subframe. ... Otherwise. Good.

There would have to be 20000 posts on SAU about it. Just put either manual boost T or a proper EBC on the car. It's not 1997 any more.

There's a wiring diagram right there!

Not strictly true. You could go as far as an engineer will let you go. Vehicle Standards just have a preference for such conversions as this to be "to the same spec as factory" because they'd prefer not to have actual modified cars running around. But they will approve a car that has gone straight from NA GT to GTTish + mods if they have given you approval to go ahead based on your application (and the engineer's OK, of course).

He didn't have those last time I saw him!

You can buy the door handles new for not too much.

Nope. Not even close. They are modern pencil coils, so you need a kit to mount them, which is a plate that interfaces them to the head, essentially replacing the original coil brackets. Platinum Racing do one. There are others. You also need to adapt the wiring connectors, and in the case of an RB26, the original coils require the separate igniter pack, which the R35 coils do no, so the wiring kit needs to delete that.

Ideally, yes. Your stockers might be fine at that power level, but you never know.

If you pre-emptively upgrade them..... then either stock or Splitfire are the only stock form factor options worth considering. But....while I have Splitfires, if I had to replace them I would consider an upgrade to R35 coils. You cannot run significantly different coils against the stock ECU unless you Nistune it, so that you can change the dwell as required.

Ignition coils. May be doing OK at stock power. Might flake out when confronted with more boost.

Easy. Plus fuel pump, possibly coils.

You don't have room for a mid muffler. You put the pipe too close to the tailshaft. You're gunna have to reroute it. We usually use a centre-offset oval muffler in the middle to make it easier to get the pipe route working.

Power level does not really dictate ECU choice, especially at lower power levels like 300rwkW. The PowerFC could easily do that. The reason to want a Haltech is if you want your ECU to do specific things that your stock ECU, or another choice like the PowerFC can't, such as various protections based on oil pressure, whatever. To be perfectly frank though, I wouldn't do either for what you're planning. Just put a Nistune into the stock ECU and enjoy keeping it looking stock, working as good as stock (but perfectly able to handle the bigger injectors, etc), and still better than PowerFC.

Numbers are wrong. stock wastegate is 5 psi. When teh bleed solenoid is activated it is 7 psi. These are not 0.5 bar and 0.7 bar. and it has nothing in particular to do with VCT.

Drop the box. You will hate yourself if you don't.

Ugh. Typing skillz need work. "Can of works" above should be "can of worms", obviously.