GTSBoy

If you want that car to be a turbo.....just add a turbo. Pretend that the GTT never existed (except for perhaps needing a gearbox, diff and brakes from one!) and just treat it as if it was any other NA RWD car that didn't have a turbo option. The above suggestion is also slightly sarcastic, because I also generally tend to advise against that choice when you can just go out and buy a turbo version of the same car anyway. But it's a perfectly fine way to turn a GT into a turbo car. Otherwise, what Greg says above is all true. There is no financial sense in any of these ideas. So just choose how you wish to piss your money up against the wall and get to it.

A GT converted to a turbo is not a GTT. A GTT front cut is good spares for a GTT. A gap of a few grand between the cost to build "a half-arsed never gunna be a real GTT" and just buying one, does not seem like a saving worth making. If the GT had a whole pile of parts on it that you couldn't bare to part with, you could still bring many of them over to a freshly bought GTT. An engine conversion on a GT might as well be "a bloody good one", rather than just slipping in the GTT motor. Why not go for broke if considering a transplant? No-one would consider a GT with a V8 transplanted into to it to be a bad thing. Or a 20B. Well, OK, there's reasons to not like putting a rotary into anything. But it would still be cool. Whereas dropping a 25DET in it is a cop out.

Ok, so.....ponder how the gudgeon pin might be f**ked, or something else that permits the piston to jump up further than it is supposed to and contact the plug (and simultaneously make a noise!)....etc.

The question will be, if the current plug tip is black, why is the piston crown carrying fresh, shiny witness marks?

Does this... not look like the spark plug tip is belting the crap out of the piston crown to anyone else?

I shouldn't think so. So long as what the Regency boys would consider the "emissions controls" are all in place then an FFP is not really changing anything that they would be upset about. Of course, that then opens up a whole can of works, because there would be little point in putting an FFP on a car that still had all it's original emissions controls, which includes the unmodified ECU. Once you have a bigger turbo, to justify the FFP, and possibly a different throttle body, and at minimum have Nistuned the ECU to handle these changes, you are no longer "legal" and would need full engineering of the mods to not be defectable. And of course, engineering for ECU changes invites the emissions testing saga, which is $$, etc etc, blah blah. The other aspect of an FFP on a Skyline is the problem of cutting a hole anywhere to pass the intercooler pipe through on the driver's side. Most such holes are defectable. It doesn't matter how "non-structural" you think any particular piece of steel is in the front end, they say that it is part of the original crash structure and cutting a hole in it will change the crash performance.

Nooooo! You mean investigate for himself? What is this witchcraft?

You do know that you don't have to mat the throttle, right?

You mean "has anyone paid a trimmer to replace the fabric with leather?", right? Because that's what you're talking about. And I'm sure the answer is "no, never, nobody."

Why swap to another Neo6 when you could put a V8 in it?

I think it is important for people to realise something. The difference in viscosity between a 40 oil and a 60 oil, at the temperatures we're talking about (100+°C) is precious bloody little. At 100°C a 60 grade engine oil is sitting at ~20 cSt. The 40 is at about 15 cSt. The gap narrows as they get hotter. At 120+°C there'd only be a couple of cSt in it. Take a look at the right hand end of this chart to see how all these oil grades collapse towards the same viscosity at the higher temperatures. All this does is tell you that it is VITALLY important to control oil temperature. Selecting a 60 over a 40 is not the correct solution. It's not even a good idea, as it will lead to a placebo effect making you think you're better protected, when, really, not so much.

Hold this place. I'll be back in 7 years.

Just to follow from that - I had R32 280mm brakes. I upgraded to R33 296mm brakes, partly because I wanted to and partly because they are required to register an R32 with an RB25 in SA. I then upgraded to R34 310mm brakes because they became available at a good price and I needed to buy new rotors (for the R33 brakes) anyway. All of this over a 10 year span. As a side benefit, I finally have my brake bias somewhat better than it was with either the 280 or 296mm fronts, because it appears that R32s are a little overbraked at the rear. I wouldn't even consider putting on a 330mm kit from where I am now, even if I had it in my pocket and knew that it would fit in the wheels (which is not to be taken for granted), unless I knew that it would not bugger up my brake bias. Always an important consideration - especially for a streeter.

Offset has less impact than you think. Spoke shape is more important. After all, the hub face of the wheel is always the same distance from the brakes, regardless of the offset.

And remember, with all these questions about seats. Aftermarket seats are not roadworthy, even if the seat claims to be "ADR compliant", unless the mounts and rails are unmodified OEM or have been engineered.

You'd have to be tracking the car at the leading edge of a series with serious prizemoney to justify putting brakes that large onto a RWD R chassis.

Do you mean factory seats or aftermarket?

Yes. As are braided lines. Anything that improves pedal feel is a good thing.

Apart from swapping components willy nilly, have you actually looked at what's powered and what's not powered?

No. I just go to must trusted tyre shop and support a local business.

Yokohama AD08R is a good street tyre. I will be going back to these after... Hankook RS4 which started out as a good tyre but is just as noisy now that they are >50% worn as.... Kumho V720, which is a good tyre but it is excruciatingly noisy after the first 2 weeks. All of these are about as sticky as road tyres get without being kidney money. None of them are really suited for keeping 500HP in check in 1st of 2nd. If you're not going to go a 2nd set of rims with dedicated semis, then this is the most sensible territory to be looking in. As the other guys have said, there are other candidates in other manufacturer's ranges.

In other words, slow down the shifts.

There's an enormous difference between "fixing the surface" and "taking off metal to make it actually straight". So the answer depends on what problem you need to be solving with this method.

Without checking for myself, I'm almost certain that is the vac feed to the solenoid valve that then goes to the charcoal canister. I have a question for the OP. Why didn't you just look at the vacuum line diagrams in the workshop manual?

Yeah, nah. I think the N/As only had BM38 MC, which is 7/8" and will work, but the pedal isn't great. Lots of travel.