GTSBoy

Don't even consider trying to modify the existing arms to make them adjustable. There are adjustable urethane bushes you can put in, but they only offer a tiny adjustment. There are heaps of really good adjustable arms available. And some shitty ones. Many of the ones you see on eBay are fairly shitty. One brand worth looking at is Hardrace. You can get them with spherical joints or with hardened rubber bushes. For a streeter, especially a wagon, especially in the frozen ice-hole of Hoth (Canada) I'd not recommend sphericals. You will need to buy both the camber arms and the traction rods (adjustable) and whatever % change you make on the camber arms (from the stock length) you should make on the traction arms also. This is the best way to keep the bumpsteer response under control if you're not going to go to the effort of actually measuring the bumpsteer and correcting it in detail. And trust me. If your wheel aligner is using DR30 Skyline specs for aligning your Stagea, they are not qualified to be trying to measure bump steer! You should look to the equivalent era Skyline for guidance on wheel alignment. But more realistically, there would have to be plenty of people discussing the ideal settings for all the Stageas in their various wagon dungeons. For serious, my recommendation for the rear is -0.75° camber and 0.5 - 1.0 mm toe in each side. Make sure that your aligner does a thrust line alignment to make sure that the car isn't bent. If the front is driving one way, and the rear is driving another, you can't really win, then you have to start biasing the alignment front and rear to compensate, and there is no way anyone can advise yo what to do about that over the internet.

You would need to be able to edit posts. Which you can't.

The problem with going the Mustang route is that you then have a Mustang and blend into the plethora of them being driven by rich bogan wives, balding middle managers and other assorted poseurs. Notwithstanding the massive price difference, the Camaro has to be the more satisfying choice, because there are none of them around and there are certainly no 4cyl ones around!

There'll only be one wire. The whole car is an earth.

I love the chaotic idea of sending an R34 back to Japan. Welcome to the forums.

They're cheap enough from Jaycar, eBay, etc.

Yup, so now you're looking for a bleeding problem. Perhaps it has a small leak somewhere that sucks air in as it cools down.

Joy! I have to drive from Adelaide to Whyalla next week for a few day's work at the steelworks. Our lockdown is only as tight as the politicians think it is. I have never seen so many people out and about on walking & bike tracks as I have in the last month. It's amazing what happens when you take away the cappucino and smashed avo brunches from the Gen Ys and Boomers (who have more in common than they would like to admit!)

But we're talking about New Zealand here. You can drive from Wellington to anywhere else in the Nth Island in what? 6 hours? Where I grew up we used to drive that far on a Saturday night just to go to the speedway.

Booster fan sensor is at the bottom tank on the driver's side. Just because the gauge says something, does not make it true. Check resistance of gauge sensor against values in manual, expected gauge position, and temperature reading from laser pyrometer on radiator hose(s).

It's not that. It's the willingness to ghetto the management. It's like the $3.50 needed to buy the turbo and manifold off some failed project is available, and not a cent more.

Why are we going back to the era of broke-arse ex-R31 owners wanting to modify R32s etc? It's f**king bizarre. Is it important to keep enough money for meth?

Never heard of Nistune, hey?

Why spend the money required to add the boost without spending the little extra money to make sure that you don't accidentally grenade it? Seems like a return to the stupid days of the late 80s early 90s where we didn't have the options that we do today.

Use a 20DET ECU, just put Nistune into the ECU and win at life.

I don't know about the injector sizes, but even if they were the same I wouldn't want to do it. Hell, I wouldn't even want to run an RB20DET on a stock, non-Nistuned ECU these days.

I just thump it with the heel of my palm.

What he said ^. The controls will be the obstacle. The transmission itself will work, but it will not have a long life expectancy. Will never find out if the brains can't talk to each other though.

All decent Skyline rear brakes are vented, all the way down to R32 GTSt.

A CRO is a Cathode Ray Oscilloscope, which is commonly used to diagnose signal problems with CASs. Of course it doesn't have to be an old school CRO these days. You can buy USB cheapies that plug into a computer or phone. And how do you know that the AFM is good? I asked what its voltage was at the trouble point. We need to know if it is saturating at 5V or something equally horrible. You don't have a wideband. You would need to install one up the tailpipe and check the mixtures at the problem point. These are all diagnostic approaches that you need to follow to track down a mystery problem.

Actually, I done f**ked up. It's the RB20 and the 26 that have the separate AAC under the manifold. The vanilla RB25 has the combined unit (but not the same combined unit as the Neo). The AAC is still electrically heated. The IACV is the stepper motor driven one. There's plenty of threads on these on here.

Take the coil and plug out and look for evidence of arcing. You could have a spark leak in there, which could make that click, and of course would feel like a misfire. Clean it all up and maybe try swapping coil to another cylinder to see if it follows. It is VERY unlikely that you would have bent a valve. The cam profiles are reasonably gentle, the valve springs are good for very high revs, and there isn't a history of it being a problem on stockish RB26s. If you have done any damage that has "dropped a valve" it would be more likely that that you had a lean event or pinging that damaged the valve or seat, leading to noise and misfire.

These the squishy rubber ones that are on the body of the car, around the door shut line? Given that there is no window frame, I'd have to guess yes. In which case, the same places stock them. Circa $200 each. Maybe more.

No, AAC and IACV are two different things, unless you have a Neo, in which case they are two different things inside the one unit. IACV is the Idle Air Control Valve. It is the motorised valve controlled by the ECU to control the idle speed to a set point. AAC is the Auxiliary Air Control. It is a thermostatic valve that is open when cold. In earlier cars it is electrically heated so it starts open to provide lots of air for a fast idle when cold, and then closes and the idle speed control then falls back on the ECU & IACV. On the Neo, the AAC is heated by coolant. Both can be dirty and stuck open/closed/anywhere. The IACV is far more likely to be dirty and stuck than the AAC. You would need to look for some pictures of both (use a manual, not Google image search, because most such photos of such valves are mislabelled and you could continue your wrongness, or convert your rightness to wrongness just as easily as it actually helping. FWIW, the AAC is a quite big thing with a hose in and a hose out. The IACV is bolted directly onto the plenum and has what looks like a motor on it.

Usually a dirty IACV.