GTSBoy

Which window/door seals? Are you talking about the sealing strips that the window slides down through? If so, they are available at the usual places, RHDJapan, Amayama, JustJap, a Nissan dealer in Washington state via eBay, etc.

What car? I know for a fact that R32 GTSt headlights do not have the attachment points for the GTR grille. Which is why I have GTR headlights on my car. You also either need to destroy your GTSt bonnet or put a GTR bonnet on the car, obviously. And the latch support & upright that goes with the GTR bonnet Can't speak for 33&34. There are non-genuine ways to put GTR-looking grilles onto the RWD cars. Still can't do it on R32 without getting rid of the harelip on the bonnet.

What voltage is the AFM getting to at that point? What does the CRO say about the signal coming off the CAS? What does the wideband say about the mixtures? Have you tested for boost leaks? Is the knock sensor going nuts? Why are your coils in place but the cam covers not?

Don't move the knock sensor, unless you are prepared to reprogram the frequency filters in the ECU to suit the new noises it will hear in the new location. Bite the bullet and lift the manifold.

I might take a hard pass on that!

+ also open all bleed screws that you can find to get air out of trapped spots. RBs have a couple, I would guess that VQs probably would too. YOu don't just open them and leave them. Open and close them regularly while you're leaving it running to bleed up as above. Bubbles will collect at the high points as they come around the system. The screws give you the opportunity to get them out.

Yeah, except that they don't fit 32 or 33 without modifying the rails, and not easy mods either.

I don't care if you use incorrect terminology, so long as we understand what it is that you mean. "Clutch pedal depressed" is much more informative than "clutch in".

Oh, yeah. Absolutely. Except that frequently these things go unnoticed until something like a clutch change. Then, when alerted to the fact that there are mechanical items under the car, the noise gets noticed when crouching down to look, and accidentally hear.

As a diagnostic tool, despite it revealing your problem, I find it horrifying.

Or just live with it, because it doesn't sound that bad to me. My RB25 box sounds like a bulldozer in motion and has done so for 8 years, and probably for 8 years prior to me owning it.

And, from a blonde-behind-wheel perspective, that would be correct. But from a mechanical engineer's perspective (which is the correct one), "clutch in" means that the clutch is actively transferring power, and "clutch out" means that it is not. "Out" being the same as "out of circuit" in an electrical sense. Hence why I tiraded, because the lack of clarity of language in these problem descriptions is a pain in the arse.

My first tip is don't drift your daily. My second tip, is, if you want to drift, then you need a 2-way mechanical LSD. A VLSD is a form of AIDS that you do not need or want. You can buy a Nismo (or other brand) mech centre to put into your existing diff housing using the existing CW&P.

Input shaft bearing is the number one suspect. As BK said - any gearbox makes rollover noise when the engine is idling and the clutch is engaged. (NOTE THAT "ENGAGED" MEANS THAT THE CLUTCH IS TRANSFERRING POWER - NOT THAT THE CLUTCH PEDAL IS PUSHED - just in case of the usual confusion. f**k the use of "in" and "out" to describe what state the clutch is in. What the f**k do those mean anyway?)

Um, they're all pretty old. The first diff you pictured is not even from a Skyline. It is probably not even an R200. If it has 6 bolt (not 5 bolt as previously described) flanges AND is viscous, then it is more than likely out of a Z32, and could be an R230. It's just the wrong diff everywhere. The Laurel diff you show looks to be near perfect - so long as it is an LSD. Do not consider one out of an S chassis - there will be things that you can't handle - the ratio will be very wrong, the stub axles will be wrong and you won't be able to swap them between a VLSD and an open diff (as they are not the same lengths). And lastly - you asked for a "locked diff". What do you mean? Just any old LSD? Must be mechanical LSD? The reason I ask is that VLSDs are weak. They barely offer any LSD action when they are old and when presented with a lot of power. Not that 300HP is a lot of power, but I got rid of my VLSD at that power level because it would just open up under load.

Injector drivers in the ECU could be fried. Open it up and look for burnt tracks and/or MOSFETs.

Yay! It's 2020 and we're having a thread on FU(KING CATCH CANS!

I've said it before, and I will say it again. FOLLOW THE WIRES!!!!!!!!!!! It's not stock.

Subframe is probably off to one side, having been slid into a kerb at some point in the past. Otherwise, just about anything could be bent. I'd suggest taking it to a chassis/alignment specialist who can make measurements.

I'm not going overboard. My life has not changed one iota since the lockdown started. I go to the office during the week. I stay at home on the weekend, walk the dog with the family, ride bikes in the hills with the family. Maybe I have been to Bunnings once less than I might ordinarily. Maybe you should move to a civilised state like SA, where the testing regime is more concerted?

It will boogy compared to the 202. You will need to properly intercool it. I'd go with water to air on a separate loop to the engine. I think it is a highly strung kind of way to power a boat though. More cubes (ie big V8) better than more boost, unless you have both.

No, because anyone who even has a hint of a sniffle goes and gets tested. They're all so shit scared. And yes, the best thing for the lockdown now that we have it is just to f**king sit tight and suck it up. And yes, we will have a problem interacting with the rest of the world afterwards. The logic is not that hard to follow, is it? My personal position on the world, and my nihilistic approach to letting it run through the population should be clear from my previous post, immediately above. But that wasn't the argument. The argument was about just shutting the f**k up about the lockdown and not trying to loophole a dirtbike ride out of it and just bunkering down until its over. You can't fight the man unless you're willing to pick up your pitchfork and rush the barricades (and stir in any other metaphors you like).

Whilst that is the reason for the lockdowns, the reality is that if 10% of the world's population actually died, it would not matter. It seriously would not matter. Human life is not sacred. If I died, I would be dead. If my kids died, it would be a tragedy for me (and for them, etc). But they're going to be lucky to have a livable world anyway, because our selfish species has done everything in its power to f**k it all up. I have a small amount of sympathy for anyone who has actually lost someone to COVID-19. But the reality is that people die all the time from all sort of things. The flue would have knocked over half a million people this year if its season hadn't been nipped in the bud by the COVID lockdown. Half the people who are dying have diabetes and/or smoke and/or have heart problems from being fat f**ks, which are almost all self-caused afflictions where they were actually inviting death anyway. The remainder are old people who have had 70 years on this planet and weren't going to have that many more anyway, and certainly not particularly useful ones sitting in a retirement home in Florida or some other air-conditioned hell hole. The world needs an enema. I think that this one is just a practice run.

Wrap the manifold (or, even better, ceramic coat it). Place a layer of heat shield material BETWEEN the manifold and the intake pipe. Not touching either. Mounted with little brackets so something. Presto, no heat transfer worth worrying about. That would even be true even without doing anything to the manifold, just the heat shield, as I said in my first reply.

I'm sorry my help is incapacitated as well. Although I'm not sure either of understand what we're saying here.