GTSBoy

Oh, I mostly agree with you over the mortality rate here in Australia. But that is really only because our numbers have been so low that every single person who has come down with it has had the best possible care. The death rate amongst those who are actually at serious risk is actually more like 2.6% on numbers so far** but will top out at around 5% when they all run through. ** Actually, I did those numbers about 4 days ago, so it's probably already higher than that. The group I'm talking about is the 60+ age group. Contrast Australia's results with even the US, where the death rate is going to come out a lot higher. We'll run ~1% at most. They will very likely come in at something worse than the rate the Chinese saw. Places where healthcare is more fragile (or non-existent) or where the economy is shit (so, most of Africa, most of the Middle East, South Asia, a lot of SE Asia, South & Central America) will see rates up to 10%. But that's not the point. You're arguing that we never should have had the shutdown that we have. You're wrong. The shutdown that we have will more than likely cause rates to drop to zero inside the next 20-30 days. BUT ONLY IF PEOPLE ACTUALLY STICK THE BLOODY PLAN. After that, there will be very likely no problem with allowing people to circulate more freely. Some social distancing will probably still be recommended to prevent any flare ups from becoming too bad. And interstate travel might still be locked down until it is clear that there won't be any flare ups. And international travel is going to be damn near impossible for the remainder of the year and is going to be a right pain in the (unt when they finally do let it start happening. If I have to go to Oman for 2 weeks next year, it's likely going to mean 6 weeks. 2 week in iso when I get there, 2 weeks when I get back. Same to the US, or Vietnam, or anywhere. We will face a big problem in Oz after this if we don't have it run through the population. That's because we'll be waiting on a vaccine before we can have contact with the rest of the world. My position on this. Engage brain before engaging complaining apparatus. Complain about the things that actually matter. Not about not being able to go out fishing over Easter or other trivialities.

It's kinda not surprising the rear wiper wasn't working. It was installed on the wrong side of the car!

As said above. You'll not get any more modulation out of it unless there is some left at the top of the travel, in which case it will be eating itself as you drive it now. All you'll be able to do is move the takeup point somewhere else.

Well, you could have said at the outset!

Because it would basically just be a cold if I got it, or my kids, or my wife, to a very high degree of statistical certainty. But it is killing people and gumbyments are shitting themselves and the lockdowns are here as a consequence and the only way I can make them go away is to comply and hope that all you dopey (unts comply too, so that the virus dies in the arse and f**k f**k f**k f**k f**k.

Chances that the kms are genuine is about 2%. Most of these were heavily wound back in Japan, let alone afterward. Doesn't mean anything except that the car has probably gone 50-100 k km more.

I don't give a shit about myself catching COVID-19 or almost anyone else I know, because I know it's basically just a cold and except for my oldies, no-one is likely to even get sick enough to go to hospital, let alone die. And getting it will at least mean that I won't have to worry about it in the future. But what I do care about, and is the reason I comply with the lockdown restrictions, is getting this f**king lockdown over and f**king done with as soon as f**king possible. And the more (unts keep breaking the rules and spreading community transmission around in your infested crowded shithole parts of the world (and I include most of Sydney and Brisbane in this!) the harder they'll come down on us and for longer. So pull your f**king heads in and just put up with it now so that it can actually go back to normal later.

I repeat. Is your current box TIPTRONIC? As in, does it have shift buttons on the steering wheel? If so, forget about using an R33 box, as they will not be the same box. Will not swap.

I think you missed the point. Do you know how loose and sloppy these shitty old throttle bodies get after a gazzillion years of opening and closing? and how much work people have to put into making them good again? I'm talking work, when I say "sealing". I'm not talking just the cost of actual seals. And when I was talking about hoses and such, you do realise that there is very little from the RB20's collection of vacuum and water hoses that you can use, and that using the shitty old 26 gear that's been lying around dry in a shed for years is probably not the greatest idea, unless you like taking al that shit back off in a few months to fixed all the cracked and or burst hoses?

Is the 34 DE box tiptronic?

How much money will you have to spend on the 26 intake (throttle shaft sealing, throttle plate sealing, etc, gaskets, coolant & air hoses, etc) to make it workable? I thought about putting a 26 intake onto my RB20 20 years ago, and realised that it was a waste of time and money. I'd just throw some ACL heat shield at this problem.

It was probably pinging its tits off. It is probably still lean. You have been warned.

Why look for alternatives when the actual answer has probably been posted on this site 50 times?

Most RB engines are a jigsaw puzzle these days. If something can be unbolted and moved, it will.

You probably have another problem.

IACV dirty/stuck open. AAC stuck open. Huge vacuum leak. Throttle stop poorly adjusted. Auto that is stuck in 3rd will also offer even less engine braking than you'd get if it was working properly, which won't help.

But, given that it is still ATESSA, and the pre-load air bleed wire thingo was added at the R33 vintage (having not existed in the earlier R32 vintage ATESSA), it is reasonable to expect that they did not throw the pre-load back on the scrapheap and that you would still need to handle it. It is also reasonable to expect that the m35 ATESSA computer would be smart enough to safely bleed off the pre-load pressure in the case of a fault. Thus, it would be "Your 4wd is no longer working but you can still drive the car in 2wd, please see nissan dealer to repair 4wd". Pulling the relay, if it triggers a fault that results in the above message, would probably be fine, if that's all it did. But if it also disables other systems on the car then it's probably not a great idea. Beyond that, I don't actually know, I'm merely throwing up some thinking material.

Some of those valves are open. Ergo the cam is installed.

Can only be true if the cam is not installed.

HEIC file not all that openable. Try JPG or PNG or something. f**king phones! I'm not sure you understand what is supposed to happen at TDC. Only #1 and #6 will be at TDC (when you're on the TDC mark on the crank pulley). One will be closed valve, because ignition point, the other will have the valves both open, because it is the overlap period between exhaust and intake, where the ex valve is very nearly closed, and the intake valve is opening. They will be nearly closed, but they will not be closed. The other cylinders will be all over the place. Some valves will be closed, some will be open, reflecting the fact that one is on power stroke, one is on intake, one is on exhaust, and one or more are partway between (ie the ones at BDC are either at end of intake stroke or at end of power stroke).

Are you kidding? I have personally read at least a thousand time on here that the R34 NAs, with the exception of the GTV, all have the same lower damper mounts (eyelets) as the R33 GTST, and the R34 GT-T have the same type as GTRs (fork).

Yes, given the range of physical adjustment available at the CAS. Retarded means "Very f**king Retarded" when it comes to anti-lag. Which is actually a good description of it also.

There's already about a thousand threads on these forums asking the same question. Search.

Un possible. The second quote is why you do not do what you plan in the 1st quote. Don't f**k with the timing blind. Just don't. As to the 15° for manual and 20° for auto. I know that to be true for RB20. I don't know it to be true for 25s, but it could well be. The numbers are freely findable in the manual though...... You CANNOT see the real timing at the ECU. That's why timing lights exist.

In Australia we generally go straight to ACL bearings. We don't fall for the brand name bullshit as often as the Yanks do.