GTSBoy

What ^ he said. If you ever open the motor up again, put some higher CR pistons into it too.

Well, look, the engine is f**ked right now. You should rebuild it just in case that scratch is the warning that something is about to break away/seize the piston/wreck a valve/turbo/etc. If you do that, then whatever the very likely other cause of the rough running will still be there when you try to start up the freshy and run it in, which won't be good. So fix both.

NOx is the big one. Diesel combustion temperatures are quite different to petrol, both at partial load and at full load. Diesel runs very lean at partial load so has different NOx problems than petrol does. Hence why they're down the Urea injection rabbithole these days. For OEMs trying to meet Euro and US emissions regs, fuel consumption targets, engine life expectancy & warranty boundaries, the space they have to work in is a very tiny portion of the N-dimensional space. So they can't have a combination of high SC and boost and not give up ground in at least one of the other dimensions of their design space. It's a bigger nastier version of "cheap/fast/light pick any 2".

Emissions.

A couple of things to note. The adapters pictures on the UAS page are not for 280mm calipers spaced out to 324. They are for 296mm calipers (R33 GTST or R32 GTR) spaced out to 324. Note that they are offset in a weird shape. The GKTech ones pictured are definitely for spacing out 280mm > 324mm. I must stress that UAS probably have the correct adapters and will probably send the right ones to you. But if you do choose to buy from them, just double check that they haven't accidentally crossed the streams! Also, the pad shape/curvature of the Sumitomo calipers is not completely great on the 324mm rotors. They tend to hang off the rotor a bit. If you're going to buy these for a test fit, you should also make some rings our of plywood that slip on the OD of the 280mm rotor to take the outside edge of it out to 324, so you can see the location of the pad relative to the rotor before you decide to go ahead. There has been plenty posted about this before, showing what people have done. It's not insurmountable, just something you should know about before proceding.

How did you manage to attribute that quote to me?

Oh, c'mon. We're talking about systems for making stupid power out of dirty old RB engines here. We're not talking about OEM refinement and longevity. Put the crack pipe down and appreciate the fact that most people playing with this level of detonation prevention are going to take the car apart every few years and/ore break shit and/or do another engine transplant and/or get bored and move on to another car in far less time than you are worrying about.

Well, yeah, because E85 isn't available everywhere and it has significant negative effects on the range of the car. It's great when you've got it everywhere you go. It's great for many racers (but not for others where pit stop refuelling time lost might be an issue). It's not great if the car is E85 only (because it can't be made to run safely on 98 if you've gone crazy with the compression + boost, etc), and you can't use flex tuning to get you by. E85 certainly made it easy to sidestep the hassles surrounding putting WMI onto a car, but only where any of the above are not application killers for you. If you don't have easy access to E85, or you have to drive across Australia, etc etc, then WMI is still your leading option if you want to push well past what 98 alone can handle. A 10L WMI reservoir will last nearly forever in many applications. Certainly more than a few tanks of fuel. Unless you're caning it on the track that is.

This means take it to a mechanic or auto-electrician and get him to do it. So you don't set the car on fire.

It's been working fine since WW2. Who is writing these papers?

Rebuild kits from eBay vendors, Amayama/Kudos/etc, brake shops (Midas etc)....and probably lots more.

I think you're over-thinking/worrying about it. Whilst you can keep injecting water almost up until the point where the combustion is quenched out.....you really don't have to. You can get at least as much knock prevention/resistance/whatever you want to call it from WMI as from E85 without having to inject anywhere near enough water to cause the effects you're worried about. Whilst I agree that better control is better, the control that we have is certainly fit for purpose.

Doesn't sound like a problem.

What are you talking about? A kit especially for RBs that you don't have to do any thinking about? I mean, it's not as if the 3 or 4 different WI manufacturers don't already have kits that you could just drop directly onto any RB with only 3 brain cells functioning. It's really not that hard. And 10:1 CR with decent boost on 98 is no trouble, with decent attention to management and not grinding out all the quench pads, etc. Cams to help relieve some of the dynamic CR is always an option too.

Oh yeah, but while the compression was a bit low, it probably isn't low enough to cause rough running on its own. I mean, it might, but it's just as likely to not. Hence why I gave the laundry list. Many other things more likely to cause rough running than a cylinder down 15% or so.

I'm rather big on demotivational posters. Sometimes they make you think more than the overtly motivational stuff. Right now, I'm rocking this one.

Given the evidence of a significantly different cylinder health, of course it could be to blame. However, just about everything else on the car could be responsible. AFM, CAS, wiring and connectors for each, coil loom, dirty/dud injector and/or the injector loom. Low fuel pressure from failing pump, boost rag, blocked cat, burnt valve, chipped cam lobe, timing out, valve timing jumped a tooth.....do you want me to go on?

Even just https://www.google.com.au/search?source=hp&ei=W5ALX5TvH4a1rQH-j6qYCA&q=r33+under+dash+screws&oq=r33+under+dash+screws&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzoICAAQsQMQgwE6BQgAELEDOgIIADoGCAAQFhAeOggIABAWEAoQHjoFCCEQoAE6BAghEBU6BwghEAoQoAFQ1QVYgyZgjytoAHAAeACAAfABiAGWHJIBBjAuMTguM5gBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwjUiOKb48jqAhWGWisKHf6HCoMQ4dUDCAg&uact=5

If those spokes don't curve back in towards the caliper any more as you go further out (radially), then you will be able to fit either the R32 GTR, R33 GTST or R34 GTT Sumitomo calipers (which are all basically the same dimensions, just spaced out radially via leg length differences) with a reasonable degree of certainty. If they do curve back, then as the caliper goes out radially, you will be at risk of using up all your clearance. R32 324mm Brembos are a more compact caliper than the Sumitomos, but obviously they are 22mm radially further out than the R32 GTSt calipers sit, so you will have to rely on measurement/trial there. 'Twere me, wanting big brakes for biggish power track work, then I'd be changing wheels.

There are screws.

Because of the size (width) of the cone vs. the diameter of the thread. It's massively oversized.

uncool

Works for me?

Nah, he means a thottle controller to overcome the crappy pedal to plate mapping in the default ECU program. As a band-aid instead of actually fixing the ECU mapping directly.