GTSBoy

Note the plural. Ignition coils. Air Flow Meters. Crank Angle Sensors. And the worst of all......ownership by morons who modify shit until it burns up. All of these are pernicious.

Do a leakdown test, to see what the rings might be like. But keep in mind a few things. Compression rings are not oil control rings. Oil control rings are not compression rings. Leaking valves have nothing to do with leaking valve stem seals.

No. I was being quite serious. Nissans of the era are not terrible, but they have a large array of electrical problems. Toyotas, even Supras, are whitegoods with supreme reliability.

No.

I refer you to post #2.

The Toyota, obviously.

NA Supra are a nice enough drive, but there is no way in the world that you can consider them fast and there is no way to make them fast without boost or a V8. If you want fast, choose the GT-t.

Then just break out a multimeter and see if you have connectivity between the ECU pin that runs the CEL and the CEL pin on the dash!

That's the problem. The car doesn't have it, the ABS/TCS CU is probably only ABS enabled, and the ECU expects to talk to the ABC/TCS CU about both ABS and TCS. It (the ECU) will probably chuck a spaz. Hence needing to Nistune to sidestep the codes. Bosch 040, Walbro 255, or anything newer, bigger and better able to take ethanol than those.

Make sure the ECU boost sensor is on the loom. Upgrade the fuel pump. Nothing else that I can think of. It is quite possible that the TCS won't work properly. If it doesn't and you end up with codes, you will need to Nistune the ECU. Should do that anyway.

Take the dash out, check the globe directly. Then power the globe from the terminals on the loom plug on the dash. That will tell you if it's all good up at the dash, or not. And there is little chance of it being broken anywhere else, unless some twatbasket has cut the wire at the ECU.

Nope. Just check everything that it could be.

Surely the ends are common with a millionty other Nissans of the same era? Just buy something with ends that match the compressor and cut them and your old ones up and get someone to weld them together with new hose as required. That's what I did (admittedly with R34 Neo compressor ends) onto R32 hoses when I did my transplant.

But not NA cars.

Meant "or with a spring".

I tell the aligner exactly what angles I want for EVERYTHING, and do not leave until they are really f**king close to what I asked for.

This is not true. 9 psi on a 25 should give no more than 180 rwkW, probably only 170. Yup. Also yup. Won't. Can't. Need.

Toe out would be way twitchy. Zero toe should be very easy to disturb. Toe in should be more stable. Be aware that static toe, as measured on the rack, may completely change when the vehicle is moving, particularly if you have stuffed bushes in any of the arms.

The differences are mostly like this. Type M differences: Different steering wheel Different body kit Bigger brakes (these being the normal 280mm x 28mm 4 pot fronts, plus the 2 pot rears). Slightly different suspension Engine and driveline are the same And they didn't have blue dials as standard And the motorised chin spoiler maybe. Although a lot of things like that were options that you could put onto many cars. For what it's worth, the vast majority of R32 GTSt are type M.

Surely incompatible elements there. Blue dash black dash is just early/late.

Disconnect the battery again and see if you can lock it with the key. That will tell you if it is doing it with power of with a "spring". If it is lockable without power, then don't leave the battery connected, or you will likely drain it or maybe even burn something. Go check all the fuses. Both under the dash and under the bonnet. Find any that are blown and replace, then consider what works and what doesn't work. Be prepared to take it to an auto-elecctrician, because you have a number of other systems in the car (the ECU, the ABS/TC CU, the HICAS CU) that could all be grumpy with you for smashing the electrons in backwards. They don't usually take kindly to the nasty transient voltage spikes you get when you make and break backwards battery connections.

The wiring diagram is in the R32 GTR workshop manual which is freely downloadable from a number of googlable sources.

The issue with that is that once you outlay the cash for new coils (OEM or Splitfire), and possibly a coil harness, you are a significant fraction of the way to a real upgrade. Even if you limit yourself to Yaris coils or similar, you can do it for the same sort of $$ and a moderate step up in coil energy. But if you do R8/R35 type coils, for about 30-40% more money you have a massive increase in coil energy. The only penalty to doing the upgrade is that you need to be able to compensate for any dwell time changes in the ECU. Not possible with fully stock, but easy with aftermarket ECU and even doable with Nistune (IIRC).

Yuh, somehow Mishimoto seems to have picked up a reputation as being legit Jap OEM grade or HiPo stuff, when it is just another generic yum cha. And not always good yum cha either.

You have R33 TPS. Does it even have the idle switch? If not, you'd need an R32/Z32 TPS. You can't really interpret AFRs when an engine is stalling. When the fuel isn't getting burnt, analysing the exhaust gas is a waste of time. As for the then and now scenarios - things change. Leaks develop. Injectors get dirty. Etc. That's why engines have adaptive shit on them (like the IACV and the ECU given the idle switch so it knows when to use it) - to get them past these changes and keep working. When you "tune" an engine to suit a very specific set of conditions (BOV/no BOV, certain level of cleanliness of the TB/IACV, etc) you leave it exposed to changes in those base assumptions. You either attempt to maintain the conditions of those assumptions or you prepare to compensate (retune) for them as the changes mount up.