GTSBoy

I looked. This page says the Z32 definitely has an idle switch https://conceptzperformance.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Position_Sensor

I think that's your problem. Compare that with what I wrote in the post above. Then do some research as to what the Z32 ECU wants to see. If the ECU wants a switch, then with no closed throttle switch input to the ECU, there's no benefit to having the TPS set "correctly" to give the right voltage. The R32 ECU does not look at the TPS voltage at all - it only exists for the transmission controller. Hence why I suspect the Z32 is same same. You'd probably be better off with a Z32 TPS and whatever wiring change might be required to hook it up properly.

f**k off the chip tune. It is 2020, not 1999. Nistune is the superior solution, even with the difficulties associated with using a Z32 ECU on a vanilla RB25. Nistune has come a long long way to making that stuff work better in the last few years too, so would be worth your reconsideration. Basically, this stall behaviour is the ECU not being able to control the engine speed when the throttle is closed. We normally point to the IACV because it is usually dirty/stuck. And just because you have cleaned does not prove that it is working. But the ECU can also struggle to know that it should be trying to maintain engine speed with the IACV if it doesn't know that the throttle is closed, hence my question about the TPS. I don;t know for sure about the Z32, but seeing as it is the same era as the R32, I would expect that the ECU wants to see a throttle closed SWITCH, not the analogue value (~0.45V) that is required on later ECUs (ie, RB25). So, I ask again, what TPS do you have on it?

All 25s from S2 onwards have coils with inbuilt igniters. So the benfit is not from that. It is just from being a much stronger spark (the R35 conversion, that is).

What ECU? How critical is TPS adjustment to the idle on that ECU?

Except aero drag is already becoming dominant at that speed and you will almost certainly do better at 90 km/h than 120.

You haven't met my sister-in-law, clearly.

What does this mean? Mishimoto is genuine nothing.

I don't know that it is harder to get parts for a Neo. What parts? 2nd hand or new? Electronics or pistons? Skipping past that, on the basis that it not the reason make your choice, the logical points are; The Neo is a better engine. It makes more power stock, because of better head design and slightly better management. It qualified as a low emissions vehicle when it was new, because of those changes. It has solid lifters which makes it better for high revs than the vanilla 25, although they are shim over bucket (unlike the RB26's shim under style) which does make them a little bit more prone to spitting shims if you do stupid things without taking that into account. They have the N1 oil pump stock. They use RB26 rods, which are a little better than vanilla 25s. They are newer, so you are a little more likely to get one in better condition than a 33 motor. The vanilla 25 will be easier to put into the R33. The wiring will be easier to achieve. The Neo has some sensors and connectors and the like that the 33 didn't have. So it is extra stuff that you have to allow for. But.....either way, you're transplanting a different engine in, so you have work to do regardless.

That's nice.

Don't waste your time putting an RB20DET into it. For very nearly the same up front cost, and exactly the same work, you would be better off putting a 25 into it. 1000x more driveable than the torqueless RB20 (as a street car).

Not necessarily rubbish. Mine is set up with zero toe and it is really nervous. Good fun and keeps me on my toes.

What is the rear toe after the alignment?

My bet is that the radiator or water pump or state of bleeding of the system are sad.

There's at least a big chunk of the problem.

Is the AC fan working?

Good for 20 years, or when the next piece of the VQ shits itself, whichever comes first.

Natch.

I've never had any trouble.

I have decided to not participate in this discussion any further. Please consider this an act of social distancing, to prevent the risk of infection.

What? Just buy the appropriate Ryco filter (or equivalent), pull the old one out and stick the new one in. No need to bleed lines or f**k about with priming. If you really want to "prime" anything, just turn the key on and wait for the pump to stop. Then turn it all off, wait a bit, and repeat. The ECU will do it all for you. If you are going to start stuffing about with replacing lines, then yes, it does need to be high pressure rated fuel line. And if you're going to replacing fuel line, don't cut anything, just pull it all the way off and replace from hard pipe to hard pipe.

You can't. And forfuxsake don't put bloody HCl on there!

We're Australian. We don't buy kits. We buy bits.

Anything will do. It's fine, along wih about 300 other options. Anything will do here too. Only if the gearbox needs help shifting. Do not use it in a healthy box. Anything will do here too. Just so long as it is for LSDs.

Black. Black is the correct answer, regardless of car colour.