GTSBoy

No. You don't dirty thirty a GTR. Unless by "take this block, slap that plate on" you mean "rebuild the 30 bottom end so you can trust it". But otherwise, what you said is close. Oil pump drive is a big thing still. ECU will want some tickling.

Welcome. i will modify Sam's advice a little. Your R33 has the smallest and least torquey engine possible to get in an R33. It will be naturally very easy to stall, so don't be afraid to use a few more revs and slip the clutch just a bit more than might be ideal as you start from rest. You'll eventually get a better feel for it and what you can get away with. But in the meantime, more (revs) is less (stalling).

Wat?

The nut will have to be destroyed with a grinder and/or nut splitter to get it off. At that point the car will be undrivable until you fix the stud. So either get a replacement upright or plan for it to be off the road while you get someone to remake the part. Your coilovers are off the table until then.

Is it the male thread damaged, or the nut? "Just spins" could be either. Nuts are somewhat easier to replace. The stud is just pressed in. So it can be pressed out. You probably can't buy one, so you'd need to get a machinist to copy it. Worst case (and this is really really the worst case) you could try cutting it down to the next thread size as a purely temporary fix. I wouldn't do this, but it is something of an option.

Lol. 95% of the wiring in the 2wd cars is the same as the 4wd cars. How do you know that the GTS in my username even refers to a Nissan? Clown. There have been so many new threads started by people lately, saying, "Oh, my. Help me. Help me. The powerz are not getting to my tail lights!" or "My window motor let out a lot of smoke and now it won't work can I fix it with chewing gum?" that it is becoming hard to believe that there are people in this modern day of arduino projects in high school that cannot use a f**king multimeter to fault find a simple automotive electrical circuit. Why did you not read my first reply and go to work? Why are you one of these people who want someone on the other side of the internet to tell you exactly what your arcane, probably unique problem is? Why are you not able to close your eyes and picture exactly where this would be in the loom behind the instrument binnacle?

Plug tip. But yes. As per my comment in your other thread.

Doesn't matter where his problem was. What matters is that he told you that he found a problem in the loom. Your problem will not likely be in the same place. You have been provided with what you need. Go looking.

^^ Might also explain your black plugs from your other thread.

S14 did not have helical. Only S15. If parts of your diff are from an S14, and it is helical, then not all of it is from an S14. OSG diff for an S15 helical MUST have different stub axles to their product for S14. The helical diffs do not have odd length stubs like the viscous pooballs do.

I'm not going to address your angular arithmetic. But the question to consider is....do you have any idea how close your valves are getting to your pistons with your wild adjustments? Oh. Really. The outer pulley on the balancer is bonded to the inner by a rubber section. These can decrepitate and move the outer relative to the inner. Then all of a sudden your magic trusted TDC mark is anything but. My advice to you was to prove that it is correct and deal with it if it wasn't because you have embarked on a free-for-all approach to adjusting your cam position relative to your crank. It would be wise for you to at least know that one of your reference points was correct. None of this matters if you use a timing light and know where TDC really is. None of it. The CAS may end up rotated all the way one way or the other as a result of your wild changes, but if the light flashes on your required timing mark (we'll assume 15° here because surely no-one would drift an auto Skyline) then the timing is correct. It has nothing to do with the relative positions of the cams, etc, because you move the CAS to compensate for all that shit. And here's a wild tip. If you can't get the timing light to show you 15°, then you have either got a slipped balancer pulley or you have done something stupidly to far from normal at the cam gear. 3 f**king hours. # f**king hours. That's how long you waited before declaring SAU as being bereft of knowledge? Really? Ferfuuxsake! When it was pinging its tits off you probably had some stupid combination of settings that simply had your ignition timing too far advanced because you thought that you could set it based on cam angle arithmetic. This is an example of too much rocket surgery and not enough basics.

You are wrong on nearly every point, but I don't have time to deal with it right now. So wait.

Ignore Johnny. He has never had to pay the stupid repair costs on one of these BMWs. Stupid f**kin' euro-trash

OEM, or Splitfire, assuming that there are Splitfires. Or look at converting to R35/Audi pencil coils. DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP SHIT!

The best way is to pull the coil off the plug and use an HT lead to make the connection and put the inductive trigger around that. That's because the ECU will f**k with the timing at idle if it can't keep the target idle speed just with the IACV. When you disconnect the TPS you disable that. The smart approach here though is to install Nistune, so that you can do it from a laptop.

Not sure I understand. Find TDC via usual mechanical method (screwdriver through sparkplug hole at least, dial gauge indicator by preference). Check TDC mark on crank pulley. Remark if necessary, along with 10, 15 & 20° marks if you like. Put timing light on motor and adjust CAS until you get required base timing (15 or 20° depending on model and manual/auto).

Valve stem seals. Could also be turbo seal.

Don't have to guess. It's a well known combo. The only unknown is how the particular dyno it will be charted on reads.

Yes, assuming you rejoin the correct wires. The absolute correct thing to do would have been to do this as soon as you saw that you had a Brandt keypad immobiliser, because they are the biggest stinking pile of shit ever and you should count yourself lucky you haven't been stranded anywhere because of it.

The entire circuit is traceable on the wiring diagram in the service manual. You just need to start where you can find power and keep moving through the circuit until you don't find it. It could literally be anything, from a broken wire, or a broken connection on the back of the fuse terminal, to the switch broken inside. You will need a multimeter and some thinking.

You did not "check them". You poked holes in the insulation with multimeter probes in probably one place, found no voltage and gave up. Go outside, open the boot, and START FOLLOWING THE WIRES YOURSELF! There is no way that the wires in your car needed to be cut for compliance reasons because there are no compliance reasons to do so on R34s. Therefore there is no "common" place for them to be cut, so no-one on the f**king internet is going to be able to tell you what is wrong so you will have to solve the f**king problem yourself, like a f**king man. For f**k's sake.

Goes with the other OEM tools in a pleather bag with a single press stud that is just dropped down inside the rear guard under the jack.

Probably INSIDE the taillights.

Le sigh. Do you know how electricity works?

Cool. I forgot about it until now, because of the repeated trips back and forth to Perth in the meantime.