GTSBoy

^^ Might also explain your black plugs from your other thread.

S14 did not have helical. Only S15. If parts of your diff are from an S14, and it is helical, then not all of it is from an S14. OSG diff for an S15 helical MUST have different stub axles to their product for S14. The helical diffs do not have odd length stubs like the viscous pooballs do.

I'm not going to address your angular arithmetic. But the question to consider is....do you have any idea how close your valves are getting to your pistons with your wild adjustments? Oh. Really. The outer pulley on the balancer is bonded to the inner by a rubber section. These can decrepitate and move the outer relative to the inner. Then all of a sudden your magic trusted TDC mark is anything but. My advice to you was to prove that it is correct and deal with it if it wasn't because you have embarked on a free-for-all approach to adjusting your cam position relative to your crank. It would be wise for you to at least know that one of your reference points was correct. None of this matters if you use a timing light and know where TDC really is. None of it. The CAS may end up rotated all the way one way or the other as a result of your wild changes, but if the light flashes on your required timing mark (we'll assume 15° here because surely no-one would drift an auto Skyline) then the timing is correct. It has nothing to do with the relative positions of the cams, etc, because you move the CAS to compensate for all that shit. And here's a wild tip. If you can't get the timing light to show you 15°, then you have either got a slipped balancer pulley or you have done something stupidly to far from normal at the cam gear. 3 f**king hours. # f**king hours. That's how long you waited before declaring SAU as being bereft of knowledge? Really? Ferfuuxsake! When it was pinging its tits off you probably had some stupid combination of settings that simply had your ignition timing too far advanced because you thought that you could set it based on cam angle arithmetic. This is an example of too much rocket surgery and not enough basics.

You are wrong on nearly every point, but I don't have time to deal with it right now. So wait.

Ignore Johnny. He has never had to pay the stupid repair costs on one of these BMWs. Stupid f**kin' euro-trash

OEM, or Splitfire, assuming that there are Splitfires. Or look at converting to R35/Audi pencil coils. DO NOT BUY THE CHEAP SHIT!

The best way is to pull the coil off the plug and use an HT lead to make the connection and put the inductive trigger around that. That's because the ECU will f**k with the timing at idle if it can't keep the target idle speed just with the IACV. When you disconnect the TPS you disable that. The smart approach here though is to install Nistune, so that you can do it from a laptop.

Not sure I understand. Find TDC via usual mechanical method (screwdriver through sparkplug hole at least, dial gauge indicator by preference). Check TDC mark on crank pulley. Remark if necessary, along with 10, 15 & 20° marks if you like. Put timing light on motor and adjust CAS until you get required base timing (15 or 20° depending on model and manual/auto).

Valve stem seals. Could also be turbo seal.

Don't have to guess. It's a well known combo. The only unknown is how the particular dyno it will be charted on reads.

Yes, assuming you rejoin the correct wires. The absolute correct thing to do would have been to do this as soon as you saw that you had a Brandt keypad immobiliser, because they are the biggest stinking pile of shit ever and you should count yourself lucky you haven't been stranded anywhere because of it.

The entire circuit is traceable on the wiring diagram in the service manual. You just need to start where you can find power and keep moving through the circuit until you don't find it. It could literally be anything, from a broken wire, or a broken connection on the back of the fuse terminal, to the switch broken inside. You will need a multimeter and some thinking.

You did not "check them". You poked holes in the insulation with multimeter probes in probably one place, found no voltage and gave up. Go outside, open the boot, and START FOLLOWING THE WIRES YOURSELF! There is no way that the wires in your car needed to be cut for compliance reasons because there are no compliance reasons to do so on R34s. Therefore there is no "common" place for them to be cut, so no-one on the f**king internet is going to be able to tell you what is wrong so you will have to solve the f**king problem yourself, like a f**king man. For f**k's sake.

Goes with the other OEM tools in a pleather bag with a single press stud that is just dropped down inside the rear guard under the jack.

Probably INSIDE the taillights.

Le sigh. Do you know how electricity works?

Cool. I forgot about it until now, because of the repeated trips back and forth to Perth in the meantime.

That can't be true. R34s are not like R32s. The only rule that had to be complied with that required the modification of taillights on Skylines was that there must be no permanently illuminated taillights outboard of the rear indicators. As R32s have 4x taillights with the indicators in between, the outer taillights had to be disabled. That was achieved by cutting the wires that run between the inner and outer lights, and was easily restored by just reconnecting them. Pay careful attention to the fact that I am talking about taillights, NOT brake lights. There is no problem with the brake lights being inboard, outboard, up high down low, upside down or any other relationship to the indicators. R34s had the indicator in the centre of the inner light, which is the taillight and the outers are brake lights, so there is no problem with the rules. If your Nismo's outer brake lights are not working, then they might be stuffed in some manner, or stupidly modified in some way. Look for cut wires inside them. Play with a 12v drill battery and jumper wires to see if you can make shit light up. It's not rocket surgery.

Did you not get my response to you from a few weeks back either?

Cut it open with snap off blade. Prise gently, reseal carefully.

It was the late 80s. They were reaching to the limits of their imagination and the tech as it was.....

I shall send you $5 if you're correct. + 1 million internet points.

Bah! My car was 6 years and 23k km old when I got it and there was no appreciable wear in any of the suspension/steering and HICAS was f**king frightening. It would saw away at the back wheels in response to any vigorous steering inputs intended for the front wheels. HICAS was always intended by Nissan to make the car feel really good at 7/10ths. Go above there and it starts to react poorly to the type of driving inputs required to cope with mid corner understeer, etc etc. You can bet your last razoo that no one running the GTR as a Group A had active HICAS. Gibson probably didn't even receive cars with it fitted!

This is our usual response to anyone who wants to keep their NA Skyline/Stagea/other shitbox and turbo it. From a purely realistic point of view it is a shit idea to spend money putting a turbo onto a car that was available as a turbo model. It is only a slightly less shit idea to put a turbo engine into a car that was available with that same engine. It is FAR more sensible to just buy the factory turbo version. Now, in your case, you maintain that NA cars are half the price of turbo cars. But realistically, once you have bought the NA car, plus all the stuff you need to convert it (engine, gearbox, ECU, wiring loom, diff, brakes, etc) and spent all the f**king time and effort on putting it in, you would be far better off just buying the turbo version to start with. But, if you are a masochist with time to spend on engine swaps, etc, then go right ahead and start with an NA. Just keep in mind that it won't end up being much cheaper. In your particular case, given the pain involved in an engine transplant, it would actually be a better idea to put a turbo onto your NA engine. The parts needed are available, and it is very well documented all over the 'net, including probably 10000 threads on here. Again though, you must be aware that your weak gearbox will be at peril of death after a couple of years, your open diff will piss you off, your brakes will be small for a turbo powered car and you will have to do something about engine management because the NA ECU will not play along. Just buy the turbo car.

And fuel pump, and all the other things that it could be.