GTSBoy

If unplugging the AFM didn't make it better, then it probably isn't the AFM at fault. It's a standard check - the ECU can limp along without the AFM.

Could also be fuel pump. Could be mechanical - on drive side of CAS. The drive has been known to be broken by donkeys. Unplug the AFM and see how it runs.

Please tell us that you have read the oil control thread. If you have no, then you have circa the last 100 pages of it to read before you proceed. No whining, no pissing, no moaning. Just do it.

Yup. Piece of corflute will fix it.

How big are the prizes in your race category?

The only problem is that the Sumitomo caliper bolts don't have any such markings. But they will be a high tensile grade. They have to clamp pretty hard.

I'm pretty sure that there won't be a part number for that bolt. The caliper was supplied to Nissan as a unit. 1 part number. The bolt will have a part number in Sumitomo's system, not Nissan's. it is just a bolt of suitable dimensions and tensile strength for the application. You have one in hand, so you know the exact dimensions that you need. All you need to know is what rating is good for calipers. I haven't ever considered splitting a caliper before - it not being very advisable and seldom necessary, so I've never been in a position to lose on and then have to wonder what grade the bolts are. But if I had to guess I'd suggest they'd be at least 10.9. Probably wise to ask a brake shop for guidance on that.

That is the very definition of a panel beater. I cry and I wail for the state of manual skills present in the motor trades these days. Take it somewhere else, to someone who has hammers and dollys and rolls and straightening benches.

1 psi of boost will make more power than either.

Before off the shelf body parts, people used to repair bent metal.

In a general sense, some R32 parts are usually common with most of the other Nissans available at the same time. Just pull the ones that you have out, pound them flat and anneal them, measure them so you can buy new ones in case it doesn't work, and put them back in.

Plastic plumbing fittings are often available in the right sizes.

I cannot imagine that it is necessary to actually swap the speed sensor. As I said, the speed signal should be exactly the same on both early and late 32s. That being a 0-5v square wave PWM. It's all shown in the R32 GTR manual. It must just be a matter of which pins it's all wired to.

There is an electrical difference. Well, there's no actual electrical difference as far as I know - it's just wiring pinouts. The speed signal out to the ECU is the same PWM. etc.

The more I think about it, the more I think that the best "twin" setup is a v.large turbo + an Eaton screw supercharger.

Oiling mods more important than ANYTHING else.

Just get used to it. To be fair, there are so many questions asked on here that the asker could get the answer for in about 3s of googling. Exasperation builds up quick.

New wheels may well sound different. As to the leak tester.....just block both turbo inlets as you would on a single. You can't leak test from the MAFs inwards, because there's a lot of connections between the turbo inlet pipes and the crankcase.

Trolollollloolloolllol

BK's do the adjustment with two plates that are slotted and so can slide in-out relative to each other, and use bolts through them to lock them together. The bottom ones are the same as everybody else's. Just relies on big threaded rods and locknuts. The bottom ones need to be adjusted carefully so that the same length change is made on both the front and rear half of the arm. The top ones are more guaranteed of correctly adjusting both halves, seeing as they are not halves! But a few people harbour worries about the types of arms that have sliding plates that lock together with through bolts as they fear they will shake loose. May or may not be founded fears. The top ones are also spherical jointed on the upper inners and I don't think the new ones are.

Darren can always be wrong about numbers. Best to double check!

No more than 20% I'd guess.

I don't know for sure, but I'd expect you have to do much more disassembly than you'd like.

I was wondering why you were winding an RB30 bolt up to that torque and assumed that you were not using a stock bolt. Basically, exceeding the required (Nissan's spec) torque on that bolt by the margin that you have cannot be a very good idea. The torque is not just a function of the bolt but also what it is screwing into and the clamping surfaces that it has to load. It's no wonder that you f**ked the first one, and I'd be concerned that the second one is just simply too tight for the application. I'd get another one and do over again at a more moderate increase over the Nissan spec.

Job is a massive PITA and you would be well advised to pay someone to suffer it for you!