GTSBoy

Then why are you asking on a forum instead of just going to a vendor?

I have both the GK-Tech and a group buy rerun of the latest UAS arms. Both good. UAS on the car ATM. Bought GK-Tech at intro price, which made them excellent value. Bought UAS at group price which made them pretty good value. Would bang both again at any price.

Most likely an ignition problem. Missing on one or more cylinders causes power output to go down.

Measured in months, no? And here's the thing. You can still buy the 34 box brand new, which is what I would recommend. And you can convert from pull to push. So I would suggest that all options are in fact quite open.

Non adjustable FUCAs are not worth buying. Paying that much for something that doesn't adjust seems stupid.

You can run the small box against a 25DET for quite a while, but it will not have a long life if you increase the power much or if you lean on it hard a lot of the time. They're just not heavy enough in the bearings to take the torque. They wear out even with just a boosted 20. Ask me how I know. I'd plan to swap it. At least keep an eye out for a box you can buy to start the process. You can't easily buy the 33 box new any more, but you can buy the 34 box new. For >$AU3k. I'm thinking of buying one, because rebuilding the big box is also getting to be near impossible, owing to lack of internal parts.

Plenty of houses built with "bricks" in western Sydney.

The full details for RB26 cams have been listed on the 'net about 60000000173746454 times over the last 30 years. It just takes 10 minutes of googling to get a consistent set, cutting out the clearly wrongheaded ones. But as Ben said, you can get all of what you need from the data in your first post. If you are doing "Automotive Engineering" to the level that you are going to run an engine in a simulator, I find it very hard to believe that you do now know the relationships between seat to seat duration, advertised duration, lobe centre angles and the timing of specific events. All of these are simply obtained with arithmetic from each other. You only need ~half of them to get the other half. The one caveat there is that the finest details are somewhat affected by the valve clearances. I would suggest that in the context of running it in an engine simulator, precise details are only going to have a small effect on the quality of the simulation anyway. People put far too much faith in the output of computer simulations.

The dipstick is so small that it can only offer a tiny improvement.

The R34 NA box is the same box as the RB20DET box (except for one or two different ratios and maybe a tiny bit of modernisation in synchros or something equally trivial). So it is quite possible that you don't have an RB20 box, but instead have an R34 box, and maybe the car not just got a manual conversion. Maybe it also got a turbo engine transplant. R33 box and R34 box are almost identical with the exception of the clutch actuation. They will both require a different front half of the tailshaft to the small box you have.

Tight enough that it won't come loose on its own. Not so tight that you f**k it.

It stops the ECU from doing certain things like keeping the idle up in neutral at low vehicle speeds. It really should have a fault code though if the ECU is not seeing the speed signal. Are you sure that it does not have it? You should be aware that as long as the wiring from the dash down to the ECU plug is correct, the ECU should have the speed signal. The signal is generated in the R32 speedo head. Or are you saying it doesn't have the signal just since the cable broke?

Convert to R33 turbo gearbox and an electronic speed sensor comes for free. Cannot tell you though whether the calibration will be correct against S15 speedo head. Other than getting the calibration right (regardless of what speed sensor you end up using), the S15 speedo head should then output the speed pulse to the ECU, same as either car (R32 or S15) does natively. Not too much hassle. If you want to keep your existing gearbox, then you might have to look at whether you can get a speedo drive from an S13 or 14 to fit the 20 gearbox. I have no idea if they do or not. The small boxes are quite similar, but they are not exactly the same. You'll have to either research or just experiment. Tacho is a whole 'nother issue. You will need to look at the R32 manual for the pulse rates from the ECU to run the tacho, and see if they are the same on the S15. They could well be - it's not like there needs to be a difference between 4 & 6 cylinder cars (like there was back in the bad old days of connecting the tacho directly to the coil and having the tacho have to divide by the firing rate, divisor being either 2 or 3). People have put RBs into S chassis cars many times and I haven't heard any whinging about getting the tacho working.

Unless you go with Shannons or Enthusiast or equivalent, proper agreed value is pretty much not an option.

2nd hand or new?

Also, nearly every question over whether part X from an S1 will fit an S2 or vice versa has been asked a gazillion times. So you should be able to search up much information on nearly every such part.

It's a bypass so that coolant flows through that runner in the manifold (which is intended to kill the risk of icing around the injectors) via one end of the heater circuit. If you just cap that end of it you will have problems with bleeding the coolant system unless you disconnect the other end (at the back of the manifold). You have options, including working out how to maintain that connection with the Franklin kit. You'll probably find that Franklin really only expect people to use their heater bypass on cars that also have aftermarket manifolds or other heavy mods that mean they either don't have the manifold coolant run or have worked to eliminate it.

Another option. How much space do you have back there? Enough for a pneumatic right angle drill? If you can drill it and you have enough room for the tap/ezy-out, then it's worth a shot.

If you can get a MIG welder onto it, you might be able to get it out in-situ. But otherwise, probably yes. Lid off.

And lethal fuel mixes.

It's actually very simple. Start with something that Hypergear says about one of his larger single turbos for RBs. It can be installed as internal or external wastegate. if internal, it can be low mounted off the stock manifold. It will make ~100kW more when high mounted with external gate than low internal. It's all about the pipework, the crowding, the compromises and the big wastegate. Anything you try to jam into the spot where the factory twins live is going to be compromised by the the tight confines.

A much better option (than what PFC offers) is just Nistune with a windows tablet mounted somewhere/how.

Which is...... 1000HP twins don't look low mount and stock.

To be fair, I have a short length of vac line in my glovebox, because I have been left stationary a couple of times in the past when a piece somewhere did something it wasn't supposed to.

I might also point out that unless you are prepared to make a bump steer gauge and learn how to use it, and sink many hours into playing with the settings, OR, you pay a really good wheel aligner (with the requisite measuring equipment) to spend a lot of time on it, you can't just change the traction arm length at random without potentially making it a lot worse than doing nothing at all.