GTSBoy

Yes yes yes. You change the camber arm length without changing the tow arm and you will change the bump steer curve, and not for the better. It has nothing to do with toe angle setting. It has to do with how the toe angle changes as the wheel goes up and down.

The best answer so far is NOS. Two of the big ones.

That's not necessarily how torque works.

You are probably one of 0.05% of Kia buyers who would even consider the question of the quality of the paint. The vast majority of their customer base think of the paint on their car in exactly the same way they think of the paint on their toaster. And for that reason, Kia give no farks for paint quality. It doesn't matter what it is like new, because it falls off of all Korean cars within about 5 years anyway.

Um....is it not that the signal and signal earth are both inside the shielding? In which case, why be surprised that they are shielded. The voltage between those wires can be as low as 1V, so it makes sense to protect them from RFI. The shield should be earthed at the other end (ie, it should only be earthed at one end).

I think ultimately what holds the PowerFC back is that when you get to the point where the stock CAS becomes too unreliable to generate your timing, you have no (easy) way to implement a crank trigger.

Can't be. That's not how they work.

I'm going to give you 2 pieces of advice. 1. Don't cross post the same question across the different SAU forums. 2. This has been asked, done and answered so many times that all you need to do is search and you will find the literally hundreds of threads that all start with your question and all end with the 3rd piece of advice.

I have highlighted the word that demonstrates that your vehicle's roll stiffness is not what is causing your perceived problem. Roll is not and cannot ever be worse when going slowly, as the mechanical forces acting on the car are lower when going slowly. You get more roll with more speed. 'Twere I you, I would ponder the fact that BC and similar barrel bottom dampers only adjust the rebound rates and not the bump rates with their clicks. Their fairly crude damping valve stacks may well be sufficiently poor to allow too much compression when loaded over a long period (ie, a slow corner). It may well be a damping problem.

R33 calipers are hydraulically identical to R32 calipers, and in fact should feel firmer because they physically flex a little less, being iron instead of alloy. So, no, it should not be spongey and it is not a feature of this combo. The brakes are simply not properly bled, or there is a hydraulic problem. How are you bleeding them? Manual pump the pedal? You may have stuffed your master cylinder's piston seals by pushing them past the end of the normal travel into caked on crap on the cylinder wall. That can tear the seals. It happens. Power bleeding is much more effective. Also, have you made sure that you've put the calipers on the correct sides?

No, the next step is to use a coolant tester to find out if there is CO2 dissolved in the coolant, forming acid, which tends to be proof positive of a blown headgasket blowing combustion products into the coolant.

S13 R200s are the same as R32 R200s with the exception that S chassis cars had 6 bolt (but the crappy 3x2 6 bolt, not the bug strong GTR style 6 bolt) axle flanges and turbo'd R chassis cars had 5 bolt stubs. You'll need to swap. Plus, the 4 cylinder cars usually had very different gear ratios. R chassis cars were >4:1, S chassis cars were <4:1.

Credit card. RAA card.

Don't encourage the desecration of a dwindling supply of nice cars.

I would just like to mention, once again, that there is no such thing as a sway bar, except in the context of trailers. We are talking about anti-roll bars here. When manufacturers describe them as sway bars, they are only pandering the the drooling masses, so they don't have to try to educate them. So don't go saying "But Whiteline/BrandX/etc call them swaybars!!!11!!!11onejuan!" I would also like to point out that when you get up to 27mm bars, there's almost no room for any bush on the body mount! So rubber should not be significantly worse than poly at that point. At 24mm, poly it. I would also like to mention that with really stiff bars, other parts of the car start to deflect under the loads. You have to think about the mechanics (ie, the physics) of what the bar is doing and not pretend that everything it is bolted to is as solid as a rock and not going to deflect under heavy loads.

Acid test the coolant.

Sheee'll be right.

Got news for you bro. 95% of us are in Australia with that diff. But you did ask for "on-line".

Get the smallest highflow option that Hypergear offers. You want boost on as early as possible in a big heavy bus.

What, you mean you couldn't find this? Or any of the others like it? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-REAR-DIFF-ASSEMBLY-R32-4WS-GTS-06-91-03-93-91-92-93/273889404176?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3fc514a510:g:N7MAAOSwJytdA7~F&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qX6eTpQNEOH5YEJHioiBCTlZ4VxHBc7X5NScw9m9131qzs2ppn%2BBrXxlV28%2FsoT2Ri6ha1SsBGj0egnZKP9Snw9sEAR6tj%2BfR40X1yegBRu9%2BeNfv0%2FHCatwGl9Iq2xbEJt9elIHN0gxcwGUC6JS%2FoVTwF%2FghaM2aFLF4FNqrFmtHrfe4bN5bWCdx7EojDTlfWfBfVLXw8ne%2BgaEMkZHWTzoWjLkYw087kaL%2Bxjw2uhDR%2Bq4v0MdT9F67WFBFbL2kT00eR9HVvSK6iF59Dm8nBWGf9JofC029ju7JBe6KSlYX9o5M74k3d%2FUJj9bR0boJB5KE%2F1%2BkPwS0RkY6KSAh83yG20eQN0YZB1dcrMLYYJK%2FW0uK0wjFj02sPOmcHZK5Z6PPStDlrlq7dNHVNKo%2FAd5fy53sfLWWlLT%2BVKzhfUIIoOLO2g6IW%2Fjs634FrhbMvznzk5X3XZCW7QmIBcSIEmAniVllirri4JOZdNpb9rK9syfV13U0AOs4ZOYv9uv3X%2FnjFZ7pa3eH%2Bo2It5tU%2FGVSk3nP%2F1Wck5jTBRIuK7bxfLF9p9AnSl90z7G2RvxABfh%2BtyRGMLcZjriC%2BUv6PYL8UJaida18i15%2Fu7hP26f4AWmD5%2Bp59ZS6%2BQE6%2BKXajSGmdCXnSeeYEXyOolXHzxvEhqFpSKOhF%2F5JmfHg2X970kq%2BQORwG09%2B0zjavSOKClamz89MhKODFrH43N%2BElNPpRWheiPncuFbJwnYmCYAw%3D%3D&checksum=2738894041769e8fa397cdd044e7a908438bf7862bc6

And no. You should be able to get 10 L/100km easily enough.

Have you calculated from the actual litres you put in? Or is it "half of 65 litre tank"? How many actual litres for that 200km?

The routes for the water lines to and from the turbo and inlet manifold are visible in the R34 workshop manual, which you can google up and download. That should show you the best place to source water and where to send it back. I'm not home right now (or for the next 2 weeks) so don't have it with me and won't be googling it myself. One thing you may not be aware of with ref to differences between NA and turbo Neos is the tiny ports in the NA head.

Take to a mechanic that has a dyno so you can test it under load with gas analyser up the spout, and look for spitzensparks around the coils and pull coil plugs off to see which is missing and then swap stuff around to see if the miss follows the coil or stays with the cylinder. And then swap to known good coils and/or ignitor. Just the usual things. There is nothing more frustrating than remote control misfire diagnosis. Nothing beats having someone who knows what they're lookign at actually look at it while it's running.

2nd hand coils are not a diagnostic tool. The other half of the ignition electronics is the igniter pack. It sits up on top of the motor getting cooked for 30 years.....it doesn't last forever. The other other half is the coil pack wiring loom/connectors. The other other other half is...how healthy is your alternator, battery voltage, when running? The other other other half is that it could be a whole bunch of other things, from worn out CAS bearings, to an intercooler pipe/hose blown open (and hence running rich). But I would bet that the running rich shit is simply caused by the missing. If the fuel don't burn, because it wasn't lit, it looks rich.