GTSBoy

I think on the 3 port double connection they rely on cross talk between the two downstream ports of the solenoid to bleed excess pressure across from the NC outlet to the NO outlet (or vice, versa, which the hell way around it is).

It might have been blocked off because it was giving trouble and previous owner too stupid to fix it properly. There's a wax pellet cold fast idle valve in there that is heated by the coolant. It will get hot anyway, after the inlet manifold gets hot, it's just slower to heat up. The one on the right bends straight down from where it is plugged, goes down a few inches onto an upward facing nipple on the water gallery that runs along the top of the inlet manifold. The middle one goes down and back, to I think the line that services the turbo. The one closest to the IACV connects to the back port on the TB passthrough. That's the way mine are hooked up, and they have not been changed.

You don't need to know anything about the diameter of the steering rack. Just buy bushes to suit your car. Presto. Done.

It works out like this. External gate can have a weak spring, or it can have a stiff spring. When it has a stiff spring, it will want to close quite well, so it doesn't need any help. So you leave the 3rd port of the solenoid vented to atmosphere and you plumb the 2nd port on the solenoid to the side of the wastegate actuator that will make it open. When you have a weak spring on the wastegate, you will probably need to help it close, which is what the connection diagram you posted does. The boost signal that would go to vent instead gets applied to the closing side of the actuator. There is no venting, there is merely PWM sharing of the boost signal between the opening side and the closing side, giving actual servo control of the valve position.

Degrease everything. Make sure it is clean everywhere that has oil on it now. Run it for a bit, see where it gets wet. Squealing belts/pulleys can be fixed by sandpapering the sheave faces. Don't do it while it's running! But the squealing may be because the pump has a problem. See how hard it is to turn, whether there's any wrong slop in it, etc.

As BK says, there are better cams available. Read the last 100 pages of the oil control thread. I am serious. Who knows? Depends on what your head and block look like, yeah? You don't really need one, but seeing as you're intent on using an aftermarket rail, you might as well. But you don't really need the rail either. New timing belt, water pump are a good idea. Big 100cell cat. Everything else seems fine.

Shitty modern FWD crap. Take the TB off and do it manually.

Or just call up any one of the dozens of english language import/export/part sourcing crowds there in Japan and get their help.

NONONONONONONONONONONO! Just do what I said in the other thread. Go to ANY mechanic. Any mechanic at all. They all have code readers. Plug theirs in and see what it says.

I will tell you right now, that the answers you seek have definitely been posted on these very forums many times in the last 20 years. SEARCH. And ye shall find.

2 points here. 1. I did not say TB cleaner. I said Subaru upper engine cleaner. Not the same thing. And 2. Regardless, carby/TB cleaner can't really harm the IACV. And I meant for you to spray it into the IACV. You may need to have a few goes at getting some stuff in there. The best way would be to have the hose feeding it ready to pop off. Have engine running, pull hose and squirt some cleaner in, then put hose back on if it sounds like it wants to stall.

It's just serial. But it's based around command and data structures that are Nissan specific.

Next discovery. Out of fuel.

Quoting for the lulz.

Where is the boost? Not in that hose, certainly.

Yes, R32 is different.

Thought about measuring voltages and quality of earth?

I dunno what you're talking about. My HEL lines go from the clip on the inner guard, to the clip on the back of the upright, to the clip just before the caliper, and have little rubber bits on the line for the middle ones.

When I say "amp module", I mean an integrated circuit on a circuit board either in your head unit or in a separate amplifier. I have no idea what sort of car, or what sort of stereo is in it. Doesn't really matter, there is little that you could do to test such a thing. At this point, you should do what you should have done from the start. Take the door apart and have a look. Consider swapping the speakers from left to right to see whether the problem stays put or follows the speaker. It might even just go away if it was a loose connection. Failing that, get someone who know about wires to have a physical look at it, in person.

Could be. Could be that you accidentally adjusted the balance to the left. Could be that the amplifier module has shat itself. Could be a rat died in the door, and its carcass is pressed up against the back of the speaker cone stopping it from moving as much.

There is a pair of wires that runs from the back of the stereo/amplifier to the speaker. One of these will be disconnected in some way. Broken wire, broken solder joint, broken connector. Or, the speaker could have shat itself. The voice coil inside is made up of really fine wire and will die under too much power input, or from age, or from getting wet, etc etc.

Fuse? It's wire all the way down buddy. Is this a serious question, or are you trolling?

See my previous post!

Unless you want a significant project, the only sensible swap is the same for same. As RBs are not exactly thick on the ground these days, you may get a better, faster, more trustworthy result from actually rebuilding it. Oh, and don't expect the scan tool to tell you that you have a dud plug or coil. The ECU can't really tell. It can tell you about faulty sensors, and that's pretty much it.

Autos are full of black magic and spite. Yours will either worn out friction surfaces, or blocked oil galleries, or stuck pistons/broken springs or a dud solenoid. Or possibly something different. Automatic trans specialists make money from knowing that no-one can really fix their own auto.