GTSBoy

Front section of NA tailshaft is not same as turbo.

He has a manual, further reducing the point of doing anything.

I ran 24mm bar on soft setting at rear for years before changing to 22mm on hard. I run 24mm bar on hard setting at front and have done so for many years. No breakage. But this is on an R32, not an ocean liner. You can put a bit of rubber sheet and a hose clamp around the bar on each side of one or both D brackets to keep it laterally aligned.

Unlikely Absolutely not.

You can see and feel if a crimp has or hasn't been done. And if you pull really hard on the ends, they might come off if they're not crimped. I wouldn't be too worried about such lines not getting crimped. That would have to be an exceedingly rare failure.

Spend on suspension brakes & tyres. Don't spend on power until you're allowed to. In the meantime, you may well change your mind, or just about anything else can happen.

Blew intercooler hose off. Most of the way off, still nearly closed.

The do have a plastic sleeve. Your choice of colour, etc etc. And they mount properly - they have the blocks needed. I'm not recommending against GK-Tech - I use lots of their stuff. But the HEL lines are noticeably cheaper - and up until Dose sent me a picture of one that was very questionable, I had never had cause to doubt their quality. They were the first to offer ADR approved braided lines, after all. But at least it is possible to tell if they (or any other brand) have been crimped, now that you know to look!

If this whole thing is a troll, there has been a lot of effort put in.

Is the hose sucking air in when the car is running? If so....problem. As to the idle valve. Buy some Subaru upper engine cleaner or similar and spray it in through there.

Ahh. OK.

Not only is the pedal feel worth whatever you have to pay, but you also get to get rid of 20+ year old rubber lines that are probably unsafe anyway. But, here's the hot tip.....https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEL-Braided-BRAKE-Lines-Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTS-T-GTST/271573448661?hash=item3f3b09f7d5:g:1AEAAOSw-ldZaG1u The original, and still the best.

No, I meant buying anything that costs more than $20 to plug into the diagnostic port. Take it to a workshop that has a decent diagnostic code reader and fling them $10 to borrow it for 2 minutes in their driveway.

Ah. 16 year olds and their endless supplies of enthusiasm, money and unwillingness to listen to those who have learnt from making those same mistakes. My tip is put the Skyline in the shed and don't drive it and instead drive a $200 FWD shitbox for 2 years. Who's going to be paying for the insurance on this R34 of yours while you drive in illegally modified on your L's and P's?

Good news. Neo turbo is not <204kW. It is >=204kW (it's actually 206). And yes, you can put NA bolt ons on the outside of a turbo motor, and yes it will suck.

He did mean exactly that. That is what we linked you to.

It won't even throw a CEL on any Skyline, even if it is 100% venting. But it sure as hell f**ks with the fuel-air ratio when it vents. Those hybrid BOVs that vent and recirculate are the most wanky of all. They are only to make the noise, whilst trying to keep the ECU and fuelling happy enough to cut out all the horseshit that a venting BOV causes.

It's what happens when you exclusively access the internet on a phone, type "de" and have the stupid device (the phone) think you were talking about it and autocorrect to "device".

Snap!

Uh! Open eyes. I pretty much vote now for using a Pulsar turbo.

Seriously?

It's a myth anyway. That myth is not the reason that Nissan fitted compressor bypass valves to our engines. They make the engines work better. Externally venting BOVs do not make them work better in the same way. In fact, if you still have you AFM, they make them work worse.

Question. Do you want to recreate the car with the exact same turbo? If so, then fair enough. But more realistically, if it just needs to be a turbo that looks roughly the same, there are a bunch of options and the choice comes down to picking one that matches the boost & flow requirements. That's a 1250cc 6 cylinder? Any T25 or T28 based turbo from a Nissan would be ample. Anything from an RB20 upwards would likely be too large, and also hampered by a ceramic turbine on most of them. Ceramic turbines are to be avoided.

No. The NA gearbox is physically much smaller. Like half the size. You don't need to upgrade either the diff or driveshafts. Not for strength reasons anyway, as the diff is the same strength as the turbo item and the axles are nearly as good. But.....you will want an LSD centre on a turbo. Note that I said driveshafts. You said driveshaft, and it is not clear whether you meant the tailshaft or the axles. Not that it matters, as both are strong enough. It's also not clear what the stroker kit and other parts are fitted to. The NA engine? A turbo engine in the shed? If you've done it to the NA, complete waste of time. If you've done it to the turbo, well, the yellowjackets are not a good choice, but beyond that, everything else is OK, if largely a waste of money. You will need brakes. And, are you sure that you will be allowed to drive a turbo on your P's?

Oh dear. Pretty trumps correct, again.