GTSBoy

Meh, I've always used 140-200TW tyres on the R32 as a daily. A set of tyres every 8-15km is acceptable to me. 8k perhaps at the less acceptable end!

https://automotive.sika.com/dam/dms/global-industry/n/interior-exterior.pdf

Sikaflex. There are many grades. I'm not sure which one is generally used for this purpose though.

Yes, and you will never get the shock to go onto the pin with the ARB loaded across the car like that. Too much force.

This an R34? It shouldn't matter though - it should be the same as on any of the others, and by "any of the others" I mean R32, because that is the car that I have had the front end apart on about 50 times this year. Sometimes, it is much easier to get the lower shock eye onto that pin when: a) you have the upper shock nuts backed off a few turns so you can wiggle it a bit more freely. When they are tight the bottom of the strut is much harder to move that _leeeetle_ bit you might need it to to win the fight. b) you have the outer bolt(s) from the FUCA out and so you can move the lower pin around freely too. Then, all you have to do is put the upper arm back on when you've got the rest back together, and this is where jacking under the balljoint can help.

I'm on the AD09, strictly on the street. They are a very nice tyre, have done ~16k km and are near the end, might make it to 20. They are, in my opinion, very much just a street tyre. I wouldn't expect them to be equivalent to some of the others in your list on the track. Although I'd be pleasantly willing to be surprised. My memory of the AD08Rs is vague enough, due to the passage of time, that I shouldn't try to compare them, but I feel as if the AD09 is not quite as "sporty" as the AD08R was.

There's a difference between "selling" a product to someone (which, if you walked into a workshop or bricks and mortar store and bought and walked out with it, is just the act of buying and selling) and rolling your buggy into a workshop and having them fit non-roadworthy stuff to the car. And for the latter, let's ignore any potential legal loophole arguments that the armchair lawyer might want to make to differentiate between supplying your own parts to be fit by the workshop or getting the shop to supply and fit. The workshops that have been dealt with in the US for this are in the latter category. It would be near impossible to try to charge/attack/criminalise a shop for selling "for off road use only" parts to someone unless those things were intrinsically illegal in their own right, or had other legislation wrapped around them, such as there is for guns, pharmaceuticals, etc. Well, no. And you knew your argument was silly when you made it. And there is. it might be somewhat harder in Vic, but then that's the price you pay for electing the long list of (unts that you have to run the whole shit hole**. But otherwise, you can put an aftermarket or otherwise tunable ECU into a car and get it run through the whole shebang of emissions testing as part of an engineering cert and, so long as the tune is "locked" afterwards, then that modification is on the list that is approved on the cert. But....it is an expensive process. ** Of course, the (unts who make up a large proportion of the population that eternally try to get around the rules are also a part of the problem and the reason that you end up with draconian rules in the first place. By contrast, SA was founded and the government and civil service set up and run by very sensible types (largely German) who set up good structures that enabled a lighter touch of government on the somewhat better behaved population. it is only more recently that we have followed the rest of Australia down the criminal drainhole of penal colony behaviour and now we have to catch up with mobile phone cameras and so on.

Yeah. Will f**k a tight nut. Will possibly f**k a non-tight nut, if accidentally put on too off-centre. Otherwise... I've always been tempted to buy one to see how good they are. Thing is....I have all the other sockets, spanners, etc. So, unless I was trying to build a 1 socket kit.... see little point.

I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.

is good

Almost certainly no. In Vic they have this crazily restrictive set of rules for mods that is usually interpreted as "no more than 2 modifications to the intake system". And they're not real hot on upgraded turbos at all, let alone high mounts. That means if you fit a bigger (particularly front mount) intercooler (which is, of course, almost impossible to go without) then you're already down to one other mod allowed. You'll really benefit from hearing from someone from Vic who knows the real state of play. Even better, speak to an automotive mods certifying engineer from Vic. You can actually read the rules from the govco websites yourself, too.

Well, I'm not clicking on a link to f**king bookface (never have, never will), so I can't really know what the complaint here is about, but.... There's nothing particularly wrong with forcing people to have a higher license category to drive super/hypercars. Note that the laws are not about modified cars - only listed standard cars, because there are not supposed to be cars modified enough to meet the law's category limits anyway. If you have a modified car that falls into those power limits you're already in trouble anyway. What is wrong is the bullshit on-line "test" to get the upgrade, instead of any actual work and training.

yes yes this yes

Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.

Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.

The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.

Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.

And also there were for sale scams and the like. For sale posts need piccies, and not having piccies makes it harder to do a driveby scam.

And I forgot to add my *** footnote to the above post, which was that the pipework mods would be even more significant than what had to be done for the highflow. So just add that onto the list. Pipework mods are no killer, just made the tasklist longer at a time when extra tasks were not welcome.

pffft! My alignments are starting to take 3-4 weeks each. Bugger overnight - that would be a dream! Overnight is when I leave it on stands with the rear suspension in pieces, hoping I can remember where I was at when I come back to it. I have to set the car up on a level surface so I can get decent camber measurements, then try to set the RUCAs to the right length to get that right. Then I have to put the car somewhere else where I have enough room to set up the bumpsteer gauge (laser, paper, mirror), so I can dial out that. Then I need to go measure camber again because changing the tension arm length affects that also. Then I need to measure toe, and I can't do that to my own satisfaction at home, so I have to put it on an actual aligner. Then I have to go back and fix the camber again, and if that took more than a half a turn, decide if I want to set up the bumpsteer measurements again. I previously had the bumpsteer almost completely banished and then I started changing things again! And that's only the rear end. Not even gotten to talking about the front yet. And this has been going on in the context of me discovering a seized bolt in the LHR FUCA bush at the upright, hence needing total disassembly to replace that bush and the others that were not far away from the same outcome, replacing sphericals in the front end and making a mistake that resulted in needing to do it again, which is only half done right now. It's a selfmade nightmare. Only have self to blame, etc etc. But regardless, I am so complelely unable to utilise the services of a normal wheel aligner that I have no choice. I haven't found a shop in my city that does "race" alignments - and by that I don't mean I want my car to be set up for racing, but the set of adjustments that I have available and that need to be used to do the alignment are the same as you'd find on a race car. I haven't looked everywhere, but there doesn't appear to be the equivalent of the motorsport focused shops that are present in Sydney and Melbourne. And such an alignment would cost $300, and you only want to do it once in a while, and you don't want to find out that you have to replace bushes and bearings and such while you are spending that $300 so you have to come back and spend it again a week later. So I stay living in my self made nightmare for the moment.

Well, yeah, obviously. But then you have a turbo with 270kW "design", meaning it will have the higher boost threshold and lag of a bigger turbo, but only doing the work of a smaller turbo. That's the suck. That's actually exactly where I am right now, because my stocker exploded and I got Tao to do a highflow for me. I got a low pressure actuator on it and don't push it past ~10 psi or so, where the stocker was being run at ~12 psi. it makes a little more power than the stocker did, but it lags like a bitch. But, if I run any more boost it starts to ping and the ECU goes into panic mode, which cuts all the fun, so it clearly needs to be tuned. But, until such time as I (which is not I, it's my bro-in-law) can actually get the dyno working again, and get some injectors, and do all the swap over of those and the R35 AFM, I can't attempt to use the turbo the way it really deserves to. So what I have now is something that drives worse than what it did before it filled the cat with little pieces of turbine. I will tune it eventually, and probably only push it up to ~250-270 rwkW, which is pretty close to the max for that highflow anyway. I would imagine that by getting the tune right, and with newer betterrer injectors, we can probably make the boost come on a little earlier than it does now.** And if I do not think that the top end reward is worth the low end sacrifice, I will sell it off and convert to a G30, because the smaller ones of those come on boost very nicely on a 25 and make more power than I realistically need or want. The only reason I didn't do it at the time the turbo blew up is that I wasn't ready to sink a lot of money into an Artec manifold, reverse rotation turbo, the AFM and injector upgrade that would have been immediately compulsory, and the dyno was being problematic.*** It was easier and faster to just put the highflow on. And then, as I mentioned in an earlier post, even that is not "easy", because Tao's highflows use a shorter core than the Hitachi, so the compressor housing moves backwards in the bay, necessitating that all of the pipework had to get modded. ** And maybe just maybe, check the valve clearances and put new shims through, because I have recently seen firsthand on another motor that sloppy clearances on the shims can cost a lot of effective timing and lift and really slow an engine down. 3S-GTE in a Caldina got new shims, closing the clearances from just above the max to right down near the minimum, and it is a massively different car to drive. On boost the better part of 1000 rpm earlier!

Gas springs (ie boot/bonnet struts) will be charged up to about 200 bar. That's a bit scary. Suspension dampers will have maybe 10 bar of N2 pressure, which is just a sneeze, where I come from. Anyone drilling holes in anything, pressurised or not, without wearing safety glasses deserves swarf in the eyes.

Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.

He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.

That's less offensive than the previous gen.....except for all that ugly black tupperware around the edges. Blerck!