GTSBoy

And double double triple double check the pins on the sensor, making sure you understand the orientation of the connector view on the diagram and hopefully the pinout on the sensor itself is documented on its paperwork, for comparison and triple double quadruple double checking.

It's not the connector I'm concerned about - it's the sensor itself. The connector is agnostic - doesn't care what you're doing with it. The pins on the sensor need to match what the ECU thinks it's pins connect to.

Probably the rubber lines on top of the tank cracked. You need to hook up an analogue VM to an O2 sensor to see it happen in real time. The data rates/update rates across Consult are not helpful.

Well, what you've done looks correct, but only if the sensor has the same pinout as the stock sensor. If it's not a stock or stock equivalent, then there's some chance that you've got two or more of those switched, which could be anything from non-damaging to let-some-smoke-out.

I don't think anybody has heard of a "NISMO gearbox".

Yeah, so I think that is the point. If you presume a 25% lower reading on a chassis dyno than what the engine is making, then the most you would see from a 720HP engine is ~550wHP. "Lose" a little more because AWD dyno and the number will be lower. Call a hub dyno "wheel HP" and you should see higher numbers. But the horses would be a different size. And as Murray says above - an imposed 90% DC limit drops 550 down to 500 straight away. 80% takes you down to ~450.

720cc injectors can only support about 720 engine HP. Maybe a little bit more. 600rwHP is, um, a plenty big chunk of that number. Probably running to the top of your fuel supply.

Scratchy scratchy with something sharp/pointy, and some contact cleaner/carby cleaner/degreaser/something.

The ECU has nothing to do with the fuel gauge. Any observations you have made as a result of changing the ECU are meaningless and just coincidence. There is a variable resistor attached to a float in the fuel tank. The float sits near the bottom on an empty tank and floats up to the top on a full tank, dragging the contact up and down the variable resistor with it. If there is gunk on the resistor it can interfere with conductivity or it can jam the movement of the float (ie so that it hangs up at 25% instead of continuing to fall below that towards the bottom). It can also be a wiring problem caused by hamfisted fuel pump upgrades, or a mechanical problem caused by hamfisted fuel pump upgrades (ie, the hanging of a new fuel pump so that it interferes with the movement of the float). And the list of possible causes probably has a few other things that I can't be bothered to try to invent right now, but will likely have been experienced by others. Take the sender out and inspect.

I can see straight away that there is a difference in the relationship of the steering arm outer hole wrt the main body pf the knuckle. So there's no way that it would all just go back together with the various arms (ie tie rods) set to the lengths that work with the original knuckle.

Spray carby cleaner around all gaskets and other possible vac leak locations on the inlet manifold. See if the revs change somewhere. If so, vac leak found. Plug in Consult and see what the ECU says it is doing to the IACV. It will tell you how many "steps" it is commanding it to open. If it is not commanding it to open more than normal, then the problem is elsewhere. If the ECU is trying to drive the IACV really far open, then you know that it is either ECU cray cray or some input to it telling ti be stupid.

>-9000 Like sheesh. What fricken' car?

Fixed fixed

List it for $150k and see if you get any bites?

Tongue in cheek point that a proper test would be to see what the gauge says during a sustained lateral load.

It never really happened in Australia until more recently. They first started coming in in the 90s and most people wondered what these weird looking cars were, and that's about it. There was a little bit of fanboi stupidity after F&F. But more recently, now that you seldom see a Skyline on the road (because they have either all been drifted into trees or stashed in sheds and never driven), I'm getting regular instances of massive thumbs up and smiles, a few guys wanting to take photos (and asking politely!). It's kind of good. Makes me think I've done the right thing by keeping the car as my daily across the 25 years I've had it. You still get dropkicks gesturing for you to do a burnout. Idiots.

Won't be.

That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.

Yes. The difference between a $1k centre and a $2k centre is not worth it when the whole exercise will cost double that anyway.

An excellent question. Both answers are correct. I think the reality is that any Neo you get from Japan may well be the same as any other engine that has spent too many years in Japan. That being the problem of low to zero maintenance and oil changes, etc etc. So any Neo you get from Japan should be considered to be sufficiently risky to warrant planning to pull it apart and rebuild it anyway. That's a significant extra $3.5k impost on top of doing the same to your S2 engine, and the question has to be asked, would you rather have the (somewhat small) betterness of the Neo for $3.5k, or would you rather spend up to $3.5k on even better betternesses for the S2? New ECU? Better triggering? Better oil pump, sump, cam covers, etc?

Tell us about the on ramp?

'sif not just put a turbo on it! VQ35+ 10 psi of boost would make more power than you want and much much much much much better torque than the 25.

Plastique? So there will be a limit to how much torque you can apply. I guess the short length probably plays well with that. You chose the length based on the room you had available to swing it in? I've made something similar with round bar, heated up and bent sharply, then a little spray with the MIG to fill out the corners of the 3/8" square and some filing to shape. I've also seen it done just using a short length of 3/8" square bar (or there are double ended male 3/8" socket accessories which can do the same thing) and a bit of plate with a 3/8" square hole broached through it to use as a handle that you can slip over the square drive. You could probably do the job you had to do with a 12mm box spanner too. You know, the sort that you get for spark plugs on whipper snippers etc. Box spanners are beneath scorn most of the time, until one saves the day.

If the photos of the bars are as per current, then you are not on the stiffer setting. You are on the softer setting. Torsion bars are stiffer when the arm working on them is shorter.

Why TF would anyone paint up an R35 GTR as a f**king Hyundai?