GTSBoy

I can see straight away that there is a difference in the relationship of the steering arm outer hole wrt the main body pf the knuckle. So there's no way that it would all just go back together with the various arms (ie tie rods) set to the lengths that work with the original knuckle.

Spray carby cleaner around all gaskets and other possible vac leak locations on the inlet manifold. See if the revs change somewhere. If so, vac leak found. Plug in Consult and see what the ECU says it is doing to the IACV. It will tell you how many "steps" it is commanding it to open. If it is not commanding it to open more than normal, then the problem is elsewhere. If the ECU is trying to drive the IACV really far open, then you know that it is either ECU cray cray or some input to it telling ti be stupid.

>-9000 Like sheesh. What fricken' car?

Fixed fixed

List it for $150k and see if you get any bites?

Tongue in cheek point that a proper test would be to see what the gauge says during a sustained lateral load.

It never really happened in Australia until more recently. They first started coming in in the 90s and most people wondered what these weird looking cars were, and that's about it. There was a little bit of fanboi stupidity after F&F. But more recently, now that you seldom see a Skyline on the road (because they have either all been drifted into trees or stashed in sheds and never driven), I'm getting regular instances of massive thumbs up and smiles, a few guys wanting to take photos (and asking politely!). It's kind of good. Makes me think I've done the right thing by keeping the car as my daily across the 25 years I've had it. You still get dropkicks gesturing for you to do a burnout. Idiots.

Won't be.

That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.

Yes. The difference between a $1k centre and a $2k centre is not worth it when the whole exercise will cost double that anyway.

An excellent question. Both answers are correct. I think the reality is that any Neo you get from Japan may well be the same as any other engine that has spent too many years in Japan. That being the problem of low to zero maintenance and oil changes, etc etc. So any Neo you get from Japan should be considered to be sufficiently risky to warrant planning to pull it apart and rebuild it anyway. That's a significant extra $3.5k impost on top of doing the same to your S2 engine, and the question has to be asked, would you rather have the (somewhat small) betterness of the Neo for $3.5k, or would you rather spend up to $3.5k on even better betternesses for the S2? New ECU? Better triggering? Better oil pump, sump, cam covers, etc?

Tell us about the on ramp?

'sif not just put a turbo on it! VQ35+ 10 psi of boost would make more power than you want and much much much much much better torque than the 25.

Plastique? So there will be a limit to how much torque you can apply. I guess the short length probably plays well with that. You chose the length based on the room you had available to swing it in? I've made something similar with round bar, heated up and bent sharply, then a little spray with the MIG to fill out the corners of the 3/8" square and some filing to shape. I've also seen it done just using a short length of 3/8" square bar (or there are double ended male 3/8" socket accessories which can do the same thing) and a bit of plate with a 3/8" square hole broached through it to use as a handle that you can slip over the square drive. You could probably do the job you had to do with a 12mm box spanner too. You know, the sort that you get for spark plugs on whipper snippers etc. Box spanners are beneath scorn most of the time, until one saves the day.

If the photos of the bars are as per current, then you are not on the stiffer setting. You are on the softer setting. Torsion bars are stiffer when the arm working on them is shorter.

Why TF would anyone paint up an R35 GTR as a f**king Hyundai?

I did say there was lead on the face of the bearings right at the start.

Great for thrashing on the track - particularly if it is all corners. Otherwise, it is a recipe for massive tyre wear and reduced straight line traction. -1 is plenty for a streeter.

There are other MAP tapping ports. There's one that runs to the boost gauge MAP sensor on the firewall (over in the corner behind the brake booster). Start at that sensor and follow the hose to the plenum.

You've done it wrong. I don't have time right now to type up enough. I'll have to come back to it or maybe someone else will in the meantime. The boost signal has to pass through the MAC valve from boost source (turbo outlet - effectively anywhere between the turbo outlet and the throttle body will do, but closer to the turbo outlet is best) to the wastegate. What you have done is connected it sort of like the stock solenoid. But it doesn't work the same way as the stock solenoid. That Tee piece that you have connected the solenoid to....? The solenoid itself serves that function. You should look up a typical MAC valve connection diagram for a single turbo internal wastegate application. You'll find one easily enough. Every single boost controller manufacturer that uses MAC valves will have one. Bugger it, I'll just grab the HP Academy one. The other thing you have to get right is that the boost source has to be connected to the correct port on the solenoid valve. This is because the solenoid makes the valve switch from connecting 2 of the ports when it is unpowered, to connecting one of those first 2 ports to the third port when it is powered. One inlet, two outlets. You will note from the diagram that the common port is port 3, the port to the wastegate is port 2, and port 1 is the vent (where the boost signal escapes when the solenoid pulses ON). As to the BOV.... the vacuum signal for the BOV simply has to come from the plenum. It must register boost when you're on boost and vacuum when the throttle is closed. That's all. The original location on the plenum is best. Best practice is never to interfere with the vacuum line running to the FPR. Just leave that one alone, as you will avoid causing unintended problems that might occur if you mess something up.

Oh dear. That's um. There's like. Um. a lot of bare wires there. Take the whole thing out. Something is very very shorted somewhere. IT IS NOT CAUSED BY THAT "RELAY" (assuming it is a relay).

That's perhaps not even correct in this instance though. If the OP were in fact to bin all that troublesome crap and convert to DBW, and then if the problem persisted, we would at least know that it was not caused by any of that troublesome crap and he could go looking for it in more likely places. AND... he would have a significant upgrade in niceness to go along with it!

What has an oil change got to do with whether wear is occurring or not? Wear may be facilitated by oil having been left in too long and broken down - but it is far more likely to be a mechanical issue (ie, pressure). The thing with the tested oil being only 5000kms old makes it perhaps equally likely to be lead from bearings or lead from the additive.

Yeah, alright, I take it back. I hadn't bothered to compare the terminal numbers - they're not the same. I was working on the presumption that it was the "small plug" half of the HICAS CU because it has the same plug as the small plug on the HICAS CU. And...the drawing says "Refer to Super HICAS system circuit diagram" which seemed to place it firmly in the world of HICAS, not non-HICAS.

Yeah, that doesn't necessarily mean that it flows. If the exit side pipework is blocked somewhere (in the hose, in the nipple that it returns into the motor/plumbing, etc), but the supply side is not blocked, then when you crack the bleeder you will get flow from the open side. But when you close the bleeder - no flow. And.... therefore no heat. You might have to work a little harder to prove it to yourself. When I bought my engine the entire IACV bleeder was choked with cooling system schmutz. I had to clean it and the pipework out before it would work.