GTSBoy

Just refurbish. All aftermarket shifters are largely aimed at the wank factor.

It's not the the thrashing itself that matters. It's the mental capacity of the thrasher that is important.

Wait......isn't this actually where we should be recommending an LS?

Yes, a brake shop would make that up in seconds. But your smarter choice would be to buy some braided lines and then you don't need it. Otherwise, you could probably find one at a wreckers.

Again, 12 points are for convenience. You should only use 6 point for breaking anything (that is really tight) loose, and you should only use impact sockets on the gun. 12 points will just round nuts. Non-impact sockets can take out an eye.

Get some Penetrene. 11ty time more powerful than WD40. It's truly industrial strength.

Do dump. Don't do cams. Save that for later if you still think you need more.

You're still working on the assumption that there is such a thing as "excess oil". I would argue you want full engine oil pressure available in the actuator and that the flow away from there through the bleed holes is whatever that pressure will cause applied to that cross-sectional area.

But what flow are we talking about here? This is not powered by flow. It is powered by static pressure. The oil doesn't have to go anywhere. There is probably a little flow channel somewhere to allow it to purge air out, but it is supposed to receive lots of oil pressure because it is oil pressure that pushes the actuator. It's not like a turbo where the oil just has to be there and any extra pressure will push it through the seals. Pressure is desirable here.

Anything that tough to crack will f**k a ratchet spanner anyway. They are not for loosening tough bolts, only for spinning in and out.

Aaaaaaaaannd.....it's a 2003 Pulsar. Don't spend any money on it.

I shouldn't think you need to restrict it. It is a hydraulic actuator.....you know, uses pressure to do shit.

WD40 + muscles. Long spanners & breaker bars. The usual.

Who cares what the gauge says?

Drop the driveshaft at the diff and pull it out.

Try Brenton at Fours'n'More. He'll hate me for sending another dirty Datto his way, but he knows them well, even the FJ.

Ugh. How long is a piece of string? It is worth somewhere between the very large sum of money that an very good original or restored chrome bumper 70s car with relationship to cool models (while not actually being inherently cool itself) would command, and the zero value based on the fact that it is not completely straight, is badly weathered inside and out and would cost more to bring back than it could ever really be worth. You might sell it to a Datto tragic for a couple of grand. You might sell it to someone with a very weak grasp on reality for 5. I'd offer $200 and suffer instant buyer's remorse because I don't need a project like that, even though I would really like an old 240K.

Physics would like to argue.

Nope. Will cause lower psi than it might without the large gaps, but compression is a very fast process and the leak rate out through the gaps is "slow" compared to the compression pulses. Whereas, leakdown tests are steady state. The sad fact is.....if the engine is truly leaking more than it should and you are "sure" that the bottom end is healthy, then the seats are bad.

That's >$5k right there. Probably a lot more than that because the inner guard is smoked and the rad support and the chassis rail probably generously bent. Whether those parts are straightened (if it's doable) or replaced, will both cost a few bucks. Then you need all those external panels and lights and radiator and other plastics. The $$ add up quick. You won't fix it yourself, because you'll need more facilities than anyone reasonably has at home, or even in a friend's workshop, unless that friend is a crashie.

High duration camshaft CANNOT cause high leakdown results. Leakdown tests are only done when both valves are closed. Ergo, cam duration is not an issue. cams with big duration will cause low compression test results, for the obvious reasons that they let the compression back out through the intake valve while the piston is closing. Truly healthy engines can have higher than expected leakdown because forged pistons with higher clearances and wider ring gaps will simply leak more.

Do this in Victoria. Please do it. Then report back what a toilet brush up the arsehole feels like for those of us who might want to know, but aren't willing to find out personally.

In all seriousness, you have asked a question that has been asked more times on this forum over the last 25 years than you have had hot dinners. Search. There are dozens of possibilities, all documented.

Haha. Sorry. I think the intention was to go looking for stuff that was on offer for sale. WTBs are almost a complete waste of time, because so few people look at them.

Yes.