GTSBoy

Or, better, get a blade type AFM (such as R35) and the bits needed to fit it to a custom tube, because they are a bazzillion times better than Z32.

It's not lighter, it's definitely heavier. The RB is already a heavy arse lump. Adding more weight to the front of a Skyline is daft. Adding weight to back to "balance it out" afterwards is just daft on top of daft. Just have a look at the head on a Barra compared to ab RB head. It's literally twice the size. There'd have to be twice as much metal in it. I don't dislike the Barra. I just think it's the wrong choice for a Skyline, particularly an R32. As to Mad Mike. There is no sense in using rotary people as an example of what constitutes a good idea. Ask any of them and they will all freely tell you that they are f**ked in the head, irretrievably damaged, etc etc.

They're the bearing grades already measured for you. It's all been posted about many times before, so have a little search.

Muppet! Who said anything about VR38. There are other brands and other engines. Think Toyota for a start. Even bloody Mitsu had one. Hell, do a Euro V8 transplant. Any of these make more sense than a Barra, and still not much sense at that.

Why do YOU not go out and measure both yourself?

While that used to be true, there are other not so good things about that the Z32 ECU that made the R32 nicer to live with. And these days, the new feature packs allow you to do VCT with the R32 ECU.

If that was an R32, it would be under the driver's door scuff plate about 40mm from the back end of said scuff plate. You can't see as much of it on a 32 without removing the scuff plate, but what I can see of mine is that it about 40x better than the pictured one. As the pictured one is on an R33, I don't know why it appears to be separate from where the scuff plate is. Regardless, it looks like pox. The seam filer should be smooth and even and the paint should not look like it was applied with a goose's arse.

No oil cooler in my car. Oil peaks at around 110°C on the hottest days. Just don't flog the f**k out of it if it's really hot.

It's just not a good idea. The engine is just f**king huge. It is tall, it is long, it is wide, it is heavy. It doesn't fit under an R32 bonnet without buggering stuff up. A 3.8L Jap V6 would be waaaaay cooler. Lighter, narrower (even though V6), leaving heaps of room for proper cooling. But no. Barra the world.

Just buy from Amayama. You can live without AC for a few weeks. I never even turn mine on in 40+ heat here in Oz.

In southern Australia we get weeks at a time >40°C.

If the bore of the wheel is larger than the spigot on the hub, then yes, you need a ring. It's not completely easy to see what's going on there, but it looks like there's no gap.

Bah! The only thing that would be cheaper is the engine. There are no cheap JZs any more, but basic Barras are almost free. But that barely even begins to scratch the cost of ANY engine conversion, which always costs shit tonnes more than you expect.

Good for drag. Debatable as to whether it is any good for anything else. Arguably a Gen3 makes enormously more sense.

Big transmission cooler. Don't these things have an electronic lockup anyway? So when cruising that's in charge, regardless of whether the converter is in the slip range. Amiright?

Of course they will fit. GTT and GTR are both fork type. Whether the spring and damper rates make sense is a whole 'nother matter. AWD Skylines require very different F-R spring rate differences from each other.

Generally, more lift with a wider lobe nose but no increase in total duration is the best "just better everywhere cam". Harder on the VT of course, but something has got to give.

Nice. I don't think anyone who knows what's what would ever argue that carbies don't make power. It's not as though it's difficult to get the mixtures right at peak power. Getting the mixtures right everywhere is the challenge, along with all the other niceties like idle, accel pumps, etc. Carbs + programmable ignition is no bad thing at all.

Really? Does that not look like an old phone connector?

How much is it fouling? If it's only a small clearance you need, then you can remove some material from the contact spot of the manifold. Or, you could make some other sort of fitting there with the appropriate thread and a short length of stainless tube to take the AN fitting away from the contact spot. Welded together, of course.

If you clean the surface rust off, it will just come back. Just pretend that you never saw it. It's a car, not a sculpture.

I bought a spare ashtray, cut a hole in the back of it and mounted the Profec inside. Close the ashtray lid and you'd never know it was there. Flip it down and the boost controller is right there. Best of both worlds.

Body seam there should NOT look like that.

What is this wear of which you speak? I've never seen a multi-V pulley wear in a meaningful way.

Some notes on the results. Either your technique sucks or there's significant difference in the other parameters of the test (hot vs. lukewarm, etc). This because your cheap gauge read very similar for Cyl1 & 2 but your dad's gauge was very different. With other such differences across the 6 reads also. Assuming we trust your dad's gauge, there is enough variation between the highest and lowest to still be concerning as to the condition of those lower cylinders. And, it is still possible that stuck rings are getting better, at different rates, etc etc.