GTSBoy

No idea. No-one would have ever brought a diesel Nissan sedan into Australia. At least, not deliberately.

Did you really need yet ANOTHER thread?

(Changeable) rear geometry aside, is there really any significant difference there?

Seriously? It's a forum. Go to the top of the page, click on anything that looks like it will take you back to the SAU home page, or the breadcrumbs up to the top level of the forum hierarchy, and then follow the links back down.

Fuse blown for sensor heaters? Wiring feeding from fuse to sensor heaters melted? Those are ways that I can imagine for all 4 to give up at the same time.

Yes......we will all eventually get to the point where we realise that there's no point in spending more money on these things. Silk purse, sow's ear, etc.

Yes.....my point was around the throttle blipping on downshift. Can only achieve that wit DBW and it's not just a case of checking a box that says "blip the throttle on downshifts". There's some tuning needs to be done to get it right across the different downshifts (singles and doubles from all gears down except first) and across different vehicle speeds (because it's not always the same size rev blip even for the same gear if you're looking to be able to do it at all possible speeds for that gear. Wasn't saying it's impossible or hard. Just work.

AFAIK, 35 is mostly the same as C34. The changes were just "facelift" for the body and "R34 equivalent Neo" mechanically. To that end, I would hope that C34 clutch pedal box might be the same as C35, and you might hope that R33 is same as C34/5 also. I would not presume that R34 clutch pedal box is same, but it really should be, because the main structural parts of the R34 are basically the same as R33 also. The C35 should have R34 type gearbox, which means pull clutch. The C34 really should be same as R33, which is push. You can use either, but be aware that you can't mix and match pull gearboxes with push clutches and vice-versa without adding some extra hassle into your life.

Something else that comes to mind is that you will almost certainly need an e-throttle to go with the Haltech to permit the TCU/ECU to manage the downshift blips. Budget an amount of time for setting all that up too!

I'd suggest that that would be your first choice. There may or may not be more than 1 TC available for the box, as there is more than one engine application. Choosing among these might come down to best match with torque characteristic of the engine, or it might come down to physical size limitations on the max flex plate diameter that you'll have to work with (which might not be an issue at all - just floating possibilities). Not stupid, no. A fast shifting paddle controlled auto is very likely to be substantially faster around a track, even with the same number of gears and same ratios. With 8 closer spaced gears you're likely to have a better choice of gear coming out of every corner than you would in the 5 or 6 speeders. Maybe only slightly better, but still better. How good it all ends up being will come down to how user friendly it is, how snappy the shifts are, etc, which will likely be 100% specific to your implementation. You don't want to be waiting for a full second after flipping an up or down shift for it to happen.

Well.....not quite. Torque converter, right? So, flex plate of some sort, choose a torque converter that will do the job and that is suited to the box's input shaft and pump drive, etc. So, quite a lot of fiddling there that is very different to using Nissan manual boxes.

Anything is possible if you throw the required time & money at it, particularly for race car, not road car. The only big questions will be; Adaption to the engine. Bellhousing will be the least of it. Getting from the crank/fly to the gearbox will likely require 100% custom shit. How much data exchange the TCU will want with the ECU. Will it demand torque management/reduction for shifts, etc? Will you need to fit sensors somewhere that you don't have now? Is your existing ECU even able to talk to the TCU?

Josh ^ having said that, what we can see of those caps is that they do look pretty flat on the tops. Unless you were to desolder them and put them on an ESR tester, you probably wouldn't be able to find out if any of them were bad. What is interesting is that there appears to be some nasty looking solder joints on TR14. I would caution you that you may kill the replacement CU if the cause of the death of this one is external.

Dunno. R34 turbo slave cylinder is a pull clutch, not push. I've not handled one. RB30, RB20, RB25 (vanilla) are all push clutches. I've got a vanilla 25 box, and when I needed a new slave I just threw the old one in the recycling bin! Are we looking at a pull clutch on your car?

No! Aren't we supposed to be able to diagnose this sort of shit across the interpipes!??!!?1juan

Post makes no sense. There's no problem stated. Try again. And just for info's sake - the air temp sensor on the RB26 plenum does almost nothing. So unless it is getting very very hot indeed, you need not worry about it. And you should not move it onto the intercooler, because that would defeat its true purpose, which appears to be engine protection.

Look up the definition of waldo before you get all upset. There is a very specific definition, involving remote controlled manipulators.

First things first. If you're in the USA, you have to appreciate that the majority of this site's users were trying to sleep while you were wailing away at the keyboard. Second....I've never had to troubleshoot an ATESSA system, so I don't have a library of problems in my head. But there are plenty of GTR owners on here, so maybe someone will know. But.... Third, these problems almost always turn out to be something new and novel, usually caused by the last dickhead who owned the car. The other CU in the boot under the parcel shelf is the HICAS controller. The N2 canister might be responsible for some of the behaviours, but I wouldn't suggest it should cause code 24. You ask if there are things you can measure with a multimeter.....if you want someone to do all the thinking for you and you just act as the waldo poking the terminals, that probably is not going to happen. It's too bloody hard to fault find by remote on crap like this. Grab the manual and work your way through the ATESSA section in the CH part of the manual. You can't be a GTR owner these days without knowing what it is that you've bought.

I know you already knew what the code meant, but I thought I would reinforce it. Either you have a poor earth, intermittent power supply, or the control box is borked.

Do you think?

That's great. But what's the point of the thread? You want one?

Run it with a stopwatch, or was this just "seemed faster because of the noise"?

It's f**ked. Take it apart and find out how much f**ked.

I don't know what the limit of the S15 turbo is, but it will likely be in the 200rwkW region, so max it out and be happy. I think the max boost territory is 18 psi. You should really google a bit to find out. You will not need to upgrade the fuel rail, ever. I have no idea what the limits of the injectors are. What are they? 440cc? 480cc? Either of those should easily be enough to support 200 rwkW, but you will almost certainly need that fuel pump upgrade. You can't just "custom ecu remap" your ECU. Well, you kind of can, but it's a bit 1990s. Nobody f**ks about with that stuff much any more. You should get a Nistune daughterboard installed in the ECU. That is real-time tuneable. Don't f**k about with colder spark plugs unless the engine shows that they are needed. Air filter is a waste of time. I have no idea of the limit of the SR20 AFM. It is maybe possibly less than 200rwkW. If so, then you would want to upgrade to a bigger one. But no-one in their right mind would put a Z32 AFM onto a car these days, since the availability of the R35 and similar card type AFMs. Nistune can handle them. I would never run without a proper recirculating BOV, especially on an AFM car.