GTSBoy

Do you think?

That's great. But what's the point of the thread? You want one?

Run it with a stopwatch, or was this just "seemed faster because of the noise"?

It's f**ked. Take it apart and find out how much f**ked.

I don't know what the limit of the S15 turbo is, but it will likely be in the 200rwkW region, so max it out and be happy. I think the max boost territory is 18 psi. You should really google a bit to find out. You will not need to upgrade the fuel rail, ever. I have no idea what the limits of the injectors are. What are they? 440cc? 480cc? Either of those should easily be enough to support 200 rwkW, but you will almost certainly need that fuel pump upgrade. You can't just "custom ecu remap" your ECU. Well, you kind of can, but it's a bit 1990s. Nobody f**ks about with that stuff much any more. You should get a Nistune daughterboard installed in the ECU. That is real-time tuneable. Don't f**k about with colder spark plugs unless the engine shows that they are needed. Air filter is a waste of time. I have no idea of the limit of the SR20 AFM. It is maybe possibly less than 200rwkW. If so, then you would want to upgrade to a bigger one. But no-one in their right mind would put a Z32 AFM onto a car these days, since the availability of the R35 and similar card type AFMs. Nistune can handle them. I would never run without a proper recirculating BOV, especially on an AFM car.

N2 canister?

My point is, considering it's an NA, there are no performance improvements available from an intake change anyway. So spend your money where it will do some good. Upgrade brakes, or tyres, or suspension bushes, or any of a thousand things that will reap you a noticeable improvement in the car.

That's a hell of a question. There's probably no argument that the performance increase you get for your $400 is worth it. If you look at the "cost of a horsepower" and then consider what those HP are worth when they're available some hundreds of rpm earlier, it is probably some of the best value performance available - if you're looking for response. Drag cars need not really apply. For me, the whole prospect of buying a turbo is fraught with.....well, I can buy a HG hiflow for about a grand, but if I want to spec it up a bit it will cost me closer to $1500. And then it's just a highflow and I'd probably be smarter with a new turbo, and that will get me closer to $2k. And if I'm in for that much money for a turbo, then why am I not considering an appropriate sized EFR or G series for about $3k? And all of a sudden I have probably too much turbo for a nice streeter anyway (I mean seriously, how many seconds of value will I get from a 600HP turbo in a year? On the street that is.) I think if I were willing to stick with a highflow, because I have a Neo, the OP6 housing would probably benefit from the BB centre to make sure it stays as responsive as possible. It just means you're not buying a turbo for less than the psychological threshold of a grand. The responsiveness could be true of the ATR also, but I don't really know what the performance delta is. The money delta is kinda less of a concern, because you're already starting at nearly $1500. Know what I mean?

How much force pushing the slave piston back out? About what you'd expect from the rubber boot pushing back?

It's a pulsation damper. Shouldn't cause any problems. When people put braided clutch hoses on this is usually removed and the pedal feel changes, but that's about it. Your second, more complete description does make it sound like the master has pressure on it. That would either be because something is wrong at the clutch pedal (maladjusted, or something worn/broken, like the pivot or the pedalbox itself), or there is a problem in the master such that it is retaining pressure and not relieving it.

The highflow is about $400 less than the ATR43 if you spec both with a BB centre. Think 950 vs 1370 and 1350 vs 1770 without and with BB respectively.

It's either a hydraulic problem (master or slave internally bypassing) or a mechanical problem in the clutch itself (broken springs/fingers/rivets/whatever). The last part of your symptoms make it sound like the clutch is broken.

To what end? It's not going to be an upgrade, unless you consider 0.35kW extra an upgrade.

I would say that there is absolutely no problem with running WMI, just so long as you do it properly. You need a good ECU so that you can have safety maps. You either need a really robust WMI system with enough sensors to know when it is working or broken and with a reliable output to the ECU so that the ECU can know also and go to safety, OR, you run it with the very decent ECU with enough sensors for safety. The ECU needs to also be handling boost control - because you can't make power without boost and you can't run big boost even with "safe" maps when you don't have your WMI available. The smart approach would be to have EGT monitoring on each cylinder as a last ditch safety catch, that will cause the ECU to go to safety if temp limits are exceeded. So you're looking at top end Haltech/Link/Syvecs/Motec level gear here.

Shouldn't be a problem to rewire the 33 solenoid to the 32 loom. Does the same job, so should be equivalent. You can always measure the resistance of both as a double check.

15 years ago......... 222 posts to his count. Good luck

The hardware (transfer case, etc) is actually not that much different. Better, yes, but the evolution was mostly in the electronics. Faster processors (particularly on the 34) and better "program" for torque distribution is where it's at.

There's a bloody 10Nm tolerance in the manual. Even visually estimating 110° would be better than that!

Potato tomato

Fixed that for you.

If the spec on the bolts is torque, use torque. if the spec on the bolts is angle, use angle. Accept no substitutes.

No. Master and slave cylinders are pistons with seals. When the seals are f**ked, the hydraulic fluid is not all pushed along in front of the seal, it slips past the seal, reducing the hydraulic power. If it is not a hydraulic problem, then it is something mechanically f**ked in the clutch.

You're American aren't you? It explains the difference in attitude. In Oz we like to actually make stuff from scratch. We can see from all the US car media that the only way to do something is to buy the kit, put on the nitrile gloves and fit it. I would rather an exhaust manifold that I fabricated myself than almost any other option. And there's nothing wrong with low mount single turbos on GTRs if you're not trying to cram in a big one. For your power goal and stated desire to keep it looking a bit original, it would be a sensible choice. And, just harking back to the question/point about why BMW choose to use twins......it's also all about the very modern control systems that they have for them. The twin turbo systems that came out on 2JZ and 13B after the GTRs simple parallel system were intended to widen the torque band, but suffered from having control systems that weren't really ready for the big time. Fast forward 20 years and the control systems that the OEM engineers can put onto them now are just stupendous. Plenty of processing power and fantastic actuators of various sorts. It's a different world. And it is a different world - meaning that it does not apply to clunky old GTR twin turbos. So the selection logic that leads BMW to choose twins does not carry over.

I don't know. Well, actually, if the RB30 slave is for the NA box, then probably yes, because that box is related to the RB20 boxes and they are definitely different to RB25. The RB30 turbo box is basically the same box as the RB25, and so there is a better chance that the slaves would be same-ish. Bypassing is an interval event. Which tells you that it is not disengaging sufficiently. Which is either lack of hydraulic effect, or something broken at the clutch itself. The reason that it slipped under power when you lengthened the rod was that you were always applying load onto the clutch release, which is a no-no and wears shit out real fast.