GTSBoy

None of that is a problem for anyone who can think and who can google a little bit to see what mistakes to avoid. AFM (correct term for a Nissan) is no problem, whether using Nistune or any aftermarket ECU. Can go intake side, can go boost side, can be deleted. Not even worth the time bringing it up. And, here's the kicker.....you say "without the experience or knowledge of what works and what doesn't". Um...this stuff has been done for 30 years now. There is plenty of knowledge and experience. It wouldn't take me 3 minutes to decide on a plan and a shopping list, and I don't even own a GTR.

That makes no sense. Why would you care about cold start emissions specifically but not the fact that your emissions compliance is completely out the window (both legally and in material effect of what's flowing out the exhaust) as soon as you modify? Authorities and OEMs make a big deal of cold start emissions, but in the context of how much it contributes to the total emissions emitted by your car, it's only a really short fraction of the operating time. Worrying about it and not worrying about the rest of the operation is fuzzy logic. Also makes no sense. It's like saying "I was born with 3 legs and no dick so I'll just stay that way".

Yuh....but how would you control it? As I said, the TCU is in the ECU. They talk to each other directly - it's not as if you can plug in another TCU. And the TCU you have is unlikley to want to talk to a different tranny.

That would never be the case. It is either hydraulic (ie, master or slave bypassing), or the clutch has a mechanical problem.

All of those questions are moot. You change the factory twins to something else and the emissions compliance is already f**ked. Not to mention that you will have to be tuning the/an ECU and that is against the rules anyway. Any new (big) single will have exactly the same life expectancy, at minimum, as any replacement twins. Probably better, because Thermal management should be a walk in the park with a single, compared to low mount twins. Regardless of whether the single is high or low mounted, you don't have one turbo snuggled up against the exhaust outlet of the other, inlet air coming past hot exhaust components. You can insulate the manifold, rear housing and dump more easily when you only have to fit one turbo into the space, instead of 2 turbos and all their associated plumbing. And if you high mount it, you just put some decent shielding on the bonnet also, and make sure some air is ducted up to the top of the engine bay. Proper intake design........ at what crazy place in anybody's imagination is a twin turbo intake system easier to get right than a single?

I don't think so. Remember that the TCS is in the ECU, and they are only meant to talk to the gearbox type that they were intended for. I'd bet a few bucks that only the RE040300274624376478 or whatever it is that lived behind RB25DET Neos will do. Keep in mind that there was only a short window of time in Nissan land where they were doing slightly tricky boxes (with steering wheel shift, etc) on the RBs. Essentially just the 3-4 years of the R34. After that, it all went VQ.

Here's an important point. It's not clear from your post whether you bought a 1.5-way or a Quaife. If you bought a Quaife, then they do not use LSD oil. There are no clutch plates or other friction surfaces in there to need the friction modifiers in LSD oil. Just normal diff oil is the ticket. If you bought a 1.5-way, then of course, LSD oil.

With the caveat that R34s and a few others have 14mm caliper bolts (up from 12mm on the older cars), so you would need to drill out the holes on the adapter that bolt to the upright on any of those cars.

I'm thinking, based on the sentence construction of the OP, that you're all welcoming a spambot.

I'm not going to google it for you. And the manual has both 20 and 26 stuff in it. That's why I told you to go get it.

The wiring diagram tells all. Do yourself a favour. Download the R32 GTR manual.

The rusty pipe stub under the TB? It's a coolant pass through. It provides heat into the TB to prevent icing in cold climates. If you are in Australia there is no need for it. It's just an opportunity for coolant line failure and unnecessary heat input into the TB. If you live where it is beaucoup cold, then it should be retained, but you could possibly live without it.

Nah. GPS speed on most of these cheapy plugin things.

Heavy mechanical diffs in the front of a GTR are not a lot of fun. Helical (Quaife) is a massively good choice for the front.

Absolutely. You are, however, completely wasting time and effort. This is very deep into the "don't bother" territory of RB engine work. Whilst, if you you are accustomed to the complete absence of any torque or power than an RB20E is able to produce, an RB20DET might feel fast, it will, in reality, be a horribly slow and compromised engine into which you have poured far to much time, money and effort in order to achieve an underwhelming result. That same time, money and effort could be put into dropping an RB25DET in. Or, you could even put in an RB30E+T. But, assuming you are not discouraged.....this is not a new idea, has been bashed around on the 'net and done a gazzillion times before. So, if you search, you will find.

I'm now thinking that a pop up speed projector might be like a Pez dispenser for meth tablets. 12V powered though, hence the need to plug it in.

The best approach would be to treat the chassis as a place to put a Gen3 V8.

What is a pop up speed projector?

Is this something that can happen? Like......you mean.......people just shut this shit off without f**king thinking about it!?!!?!?!?

Should have been removed from the car before it was fitted.

When you get 5.something you will be about as fast as a Skyline with a stock Neo turbo.

Is that a trick question?

Clear covers just get filthy anyway. Inside and out. Have no place on a working engine.

Hectic Uleh!

There is an exploded diagram of it in the R32 workshop manual.