GTSBoy

Sticky shit FTW.

As far as I know there is no difference in the panels back there apart from the guard flares. They're definitely interchangeable on the earlier models, for example. No concrete yes/no from me. But I'd be terribly surprised if they don't swap.

Paste from IM. Leading suspicion then is that one of them is misbehaving. Turning power on and off. Those relays adjacent the ECU (well, at least one of them) is the ECCS relay, controls power to the ECU, and hence everything else. When you turn on the ignition, power goes to a terminal on the ECU. The ECU then turns on an output that energises the ECCS relay, that provides power to most things that are needed to run the engine. When you turn the ignition off, the ECU holds that output on for a number of seconds before pulling the power. Turbo timers act to keep ignition power on after you turn the engine off. They are a leading suspect in this sort of shenanigans. Immobilisers/alarms act to chop power off in that circuit and they can also cause shit. Turbo timers are stupid. You should get rid of it anyway.

Just instate the charge light in the circuit? As per the original wiring diagram?

Have you got an alarm or a turbo timer?

RB20 + M90 supercharger + GT42 turbo. 30 psi ought to do it.

Is it a Lucas injector?

But as ugly as sin!

To be fair though, on a roller dyno that's more informative than the native roller rpm number and it at least intrinsic to the measuring device.

Is this the same Yoshiii from a couple of years back?

I let you hang for a while before replying, because you're not as funny as you think you are.

The speed reading is axle speed. That is equal to engine speed multiplied by the gearbox ratio (which really should be 1) and the diff ratio. It's not hard. Unless you don't know the diff ratio. If you don't know the diff ratio, you have to guess and take the hit on the possible error. Most R chassis are going to be 4.11:1. Autos either 4.08 or 4.36.

There's nothing going on in that engine that a Haltech can't handle.

In these Nissans the speed sensor in the gearbag sends a +/- 1V AC signal to the speedo head. The speedo head converts that into a 0-5V PWM square wave and puts it out on the line that goes to the ECU, TCU, HICAS CU, etc.

I was holding onto the edge of the wooden desk the whole time I was typing!

Hi All, Sort of a humble brag masquerading as useful information. Whilst almost every other part of my car is currently falling apart, apparently the engine is in pretty good condition. My bro'-in-law just did a compression test on it (for reasons, explained below). The compression tester in question shall be regarded as being 100% trustworthy (for reasons, explained below). Anyway, engine with well over 150000 km (I can't be bothered doing the sum required to work it out right now) tested at 175 psi on all cylinders. Nice. We should consider that to be a reference compression test reading for a good Neo. The story. Bro'-in-law comp tested an RB20 last week that had 3 at 115, 2 at 100 and one at 90, or something like that. Could not believe it because there was no signs of low compression in the way it behaved. It started quick and clean, drove perfectly, didn't smoke a lot, made decent power (for an RB20). So with some suspicion now placed on the comp tester, he compared it against 3 different digital manometers and it came up the same on all of them. So the gauge itself got a clean bill of health. Wanting to prove out the hose and fittings and such, he did the test on my (known to be pretty good) engine, which proved that the comp tester appears to be totally reliable. Thus, the RB20 is pretty buggered, and my engine is doing really well.

It will be the coils. The first time was because of heat soak in the carpark. I can't imagine how any R chassis car can still be driving around on the original coils.

Evo drivers belting the hell out of the kerbs is why they break.

All of this is wrong. This is OK, but unnecessary, because This is wrong Do you hate your driveline?

Jeezus titty f**king Christ! I was talking about the very best option being the NISSAN VISCOUS CLUTCH.

This thread makes my head hurt.

You have an open diff. It is a normal R200. I suspect that it has 3x2 stub axles, not the 5 bolters on the turbos. This is important, because when you buy a Nismo diff, you have to get the one to suit YOUR CHASSIS, because you need the stubs to match. It is not hard to find a search result for a mechanical LSD to suit an NA R34. You do not want a 2-way Nismo for the street.

No. Wrong statement. If you have a lot of fan noise, then the problem is the viscous clutch is stuffed and all you need to do is replace it with a GENUINE NISSAN clutch. Do not f**k about with aftermarket off brand clutches, because they all suck compared to the genuine Nissan one. I know about these things.

Just probe a dashlight or plug C's pins 5 & 11. It will either be perma-powered and the lightswitch gives it earth, or the power will be at the switch and the globes all have one side direct to earth. Once you work that out, it's just a matter of how you get the signal to the IC7. If the power is at the switch and there is nothing at the dash unless the switch is on, then it's easy. Just tap off the wire at pin 11. If there is constantly hot power there, then you tap off at pin 5 and you set the IC7 to the inverse behaviour of the voltage seen at pin 5. Dash (IC7) lights on when pin 5 is low, dash (IC7) lights off when pin 5 is high.

VK56DE or go home.