GTSBoy

Here's an important point. It's not clear from your post whether you bought a 1.5-way or a Quaife. If you bought a Quaife, then they do not use LSD oil. There are no clutch plates or other friction surfaces in there to need the friction modifiers in LSD oil. Just normal diff oil is the ticket. If you bought a 1.5-way, then of course, LSD oil.

With the caveat that R34s and a few others have 14mm caliper bolts (up from 12mm on the older cars), so you would need to drill out the holes on the adapter that bolt to the upright on any of those cars.

I'm thinking, based on the sentence construction of the OP, that you're all welcoming a spambot.

I'm not going to google it for you. And the manual has both 20 and 26 stuff in it. That's why I told you to go get it.

The wiring diagram tells all. Do yourself a favour. Download the R32 GTR manual.

The rusty pipe stub under the TB? It's a coolant pass through. It provides heat into the TB to prevent icing in cold climates. If you are in Australia there is no need for it. It's just an opportunity for coolant line failure and unnecessary heat input into the TB. If you live where it is beaucoup cold, then it should be retained, but you could possibly live without it.

Nah. GPS speed on most of these cheapy plugin things.

Heavy mechanical diffs in the front of a GTR are not a lot of fun. Helical (Quaife) is a massively good choice for the front.

Absolutely. You are, however, completely wasting time and effort. This is very deep into the "don't bother" territory of RB engine work. Whilst, if you you are accustomed to the complete absence of any torque or power than an RB20E is able to produce, an RB20DET might feel fast, it will, in reality, be a horribly slow and compromised engine into which you have poured far to much time, money and effort in order to achieve an underwhelming result. That same time, money and effort could be put into dropping an RB25DET in. Or, you could even put in an RB30E+T. But, assuming you are not discouraged.....this is not a new idea, has been bashed around on the 'net and done a gazzillion times before. So, if you search, you will find.

I'm now thinking that a pop up speed projector might be like a Pez dispenser for meth tablets. 12V powered though, hence the need to plug it in.

The best approach would be to treat the chassis as a place to put a Gen3 V8.

What is a pop up speed projector?

Is this something that can happen? Like......you mean.......people just shut this shit off without f**king thinking about it!?!!?!?!?

Should have been removed from the car before it was fitted.

When you get 5.something you will be about as fast as a Skyline with a stock Neo turbo.

Is that a trick question?

Clear covers just get filthy anyway. Inside and out. Have no place on a working engine.

Hectic Uleh!

There is an exploded diagram of it in the R32 workshop manual.

I just watched the video. Car starts moving at 12s. Hits 100 at 19s. That's a nice 7s 0-100 time, plus or minus a bit. That is hybrid Camry fast. I'm impressed.

Is this a poem?

Yes, the idea of a "tune-up" in nonsensical since about the mid 1980s, certainly since the last carbies departed in the 90s.

And still no pics.

Yuh, sorry. I'd just finished groaning over an equally daft situation in another thread. I swear, the Qs around here are getting worse daily.

Le sigh. If the key won't turn the barrel, then either they don't go together, or the mechanisms in the doors are jammed. The first is 1000000% more likely than that both doors have f**ked up in the same way. Nevertheless, you could take the door cards off, and check out the locking rods, clips, pivots and so on and spray some lithium grease on them and see what's happening. In fact, if you take the cards off and then use the internal lock mechanisms (near the inner door handle) you should be able to see if the only possible thing that could be wrong is that the lock barrels won't turn. Then you get a locksmith. And FFS. You've had the car 2 years and haven't attempted to get a spare key?!!!