GTSBoy

I just watched the video. Car starts moving at 12s. Hits 100 at 19s. That's a nice 7s 0-100 time, plus or minus a bit. That is hybrid Camry fast. I'm impressed.

Is this a poem?

Yes, the idea of a "tune-up" in nonsensical since about the mid 1980s, certainly since the last carbies departed in the 90s.

And still no pics.

Yuh, sorry. I'd just finished groaning over an equally daft situation in another thread. I swear, the Qs around here are getting worse daily.

Le sigh. If the key won't turn the barrel, then either they don't go together, or the mechanisms in the doors are jammed. The first is 1000000% more likely than that both doors have f**ked up in the same way. Nevertheless, you could take the door cards off, and check out the locking rods, clips, pivots and so on and spray some lithium grease on them and see what's happening. In fact, if you take the cards off and then use the internal lock mechanisms (near the inner door handle) you should be able to see if the only possible thing that could be wrong is that the lock barrels won't turn. Then you get a locksmith. And FFS. You've had the car 2 years and haven't attempted to get a spare key?!!!

That could be difficult though.....need to get the engine running first.

Make sure they point to point check every wire on the ECU loom plug before they plug it in and power it up. Check all earths are earths, all powers are powers and no signal/sensor wires have 12V or some other shitty error. Just in case. I have had dumb arse instro-eleccies kill multiple expensive controllers and flame detectors and other stuff by plugging them in, killing them, then going to the commissioning spares and grabbing another. They eventually fix the wiring problem when they run out of spares.

Not sure why you would say that. To pressure test the inlet tract you should probably google up a guide - it has been discussed here bazzillions of times. You basically just need to access the inlet of the turbo (and some bits and pieces). The diagram you were shown, shows all the pipe and shit that could participate in a vacuum/boost leak. I've circled the BOV for you cheers

Don't make the mistake of thinking that all BOVs are externally venting wank noise makers. The Nissan turbos had recirculating BOVs, although it is technically more correct to call them a compressor bypass valve.

Yeah, walk it into Ashdown Ingrams.

Well, it's just a relay. Time to adapt something else.

Yes.....but did they test the 2nd unit BEFORE installing it? If you do Install, then test, and find it broken, you do not know if it was broken on arrival, or f**ked during/after installation. A "brand new" setup is even more likely to break something than an existing wiring setup that was known to work on another ECU.

Is it not more likely that there is something wrong with the ECU wiring loom and both ECUs have been damaged by being plugged in and powered up?

Blown globe?

It would be highly unlikely that there would be any difference. The front suspension design is the same, is it not? The rear suspension uses eyelets on the lower end of the dampers, yes? If so, then go right ahead. Look at photos of R32 rear ends and the suspension units that you would consider using, then go look at what you've actually got on the car.

I concur with the call for a larger turbo. If wanting cheap(ish, er), then the smaller one off a Barra would be fine - whatever that one is. Otherwise, certainly larger than 3076, as it will be quite limiting, even with E85. Nistune will do the job fine - but as you will really need to upgrade to an R35 AFM to make use of it.....you might as well spend just a little more for a Haltech or similar.

Could be electrical. There is a solenoid on the rack that is driven by the HICAS CU that gives you your variable assist. If that is not working, you get heavy steering. The solenoid could be crook, or not even connected. The wires that run to it are in the same loom as the power wires for the oxy sensor (well, at least they are on an RB20 car, can only guess that they are similar on RB26) and have been known to get damaged when that loom melts. That last example just to give you an idea of how weird the cause of death of some electrical things can be.

RBs with VCT will happily pull 1500rpm in 5th. So long as you don't open the throttle too much.

Condition is the only thing that matters. My car is at 230k km and has had 2 engines, 4 different transmissions, 2 rear subframes, 3 different sized front brake setups, every suspension bush changed at least twice, some as many as 10 times. 3 different radiators, 3 ECUs, etc etc etc. Some parts of the car are still original.

What about the IACV? That is what controls the idle you know.

Multimeter. Wiring diagram.

Is the ECU losing power after the end of crank time?

Only when you put a little load on it, or at any load? Because the former is normal-ish.

You'd have to bleed out the transfer case (which is well documented and simple enough) to run a 33/4 GTR without front drive.