GTSBoy

Hold exhaust up. Tighten bolts. There. Done.

And they also look like they belong on a Pulsar. What's with the shitty looking offset on those things?

New genuine (not fake!) OEM coils are a good choice. Splitfires are the only aftermarket same-form-factor coilpack that I would consider. But seriously - these days, Audi R8 (or equivalent) coils or R35 GTR coils are the way to go. If you need to replace coilpacks it is foolish to stick with 35 year old tech when 1 year old tech is available, 11ty times better and only slightly more expensive to put in place. Good coils are only $50 each these days, whereas the stockers and Splitfires are still up around $100 each. Then you can get rid of the ignitor too. Put the effort into making it better, not same. As to the rest of the ignition system. You probably need to put a scope onto the CAS signal to see if it is messy or not. The Nissan ECU at least manages to punch through a lot of the crap that the CAS puts out (better than most aftermarket ECUs seem able to), but there is still a limit. At the least you should make sure that the bearings aren't stuffed, the wiring connections are good, etc. A high rpm miss can also be a shortage of fuel. What do you know about the health of all that stuff?

Missing at revs under load should usually be blamed on coils before anything else, and then after that, on just about everything else in the ignition system (coil loom, ignitor, CAS).

PM'd

I think he meant GT350.

Have you pressure tested the inlet from the turbo to the TB? Boost leak is not always going to show up as a vacuum leak. And, for idle control, how sure are you that the IACV is working properly? Cleaned it lately? Your symptoms (rolling stall) are typical of a sticky IACV.

Just looking at Nick's list, some of the prices seem very off target. For example.....WTF for ID1300X at >$1300 US?!!!? Suitable Bosch EV14 based injectors, properly matched sets too, are only about $600 Ozzie, or less than half the ID price quoted. The intake manifold kit, at <$700 US, including a TB, seems ridiculously underpriced. Is it made out of dog food cans? Things like the Tial wastegates, possibly the turbo....thinking of V-band connections? Start adding some more money. And I would spend more on a turbo and definitely not buy a Precision. There's a whole pile of annoying omissions from the list. Exhaust side gaskets. All the factory coolant hoses (or replacement with Speedflow type stuff). Either way, a lot of money hiding there. Spark plugs, coils, wiring looms (which we'll assume are all missing from this head and block in possession). Timing gears, belts, balancer, sensors....the list just blows up. Whilst it would probably be possible to do a light duty build with sensibly chosen parts and scrape in near the $15k budget.....I'd say that would only be if you started with a complete engine in a car and didn't need to fill all these gaps. Starting with nothing except a block and a head, starts to look like double that value, if not more. The truth no doubt lies somewhere in between. But just be warned - none of us think you're going to get it done anywhere near the nominated budget.

Meth is a hell of a drug.

Nah, running filthy rich and not wanting to idle suggest a big fat hole somewhere. Dirty injectors usually lead to lean pops and only a moderate increase in fuel consumption.

Boost/vacuum leak.

That works out to about 1 stripper. Ugly Thai, possibly ex male. 1 line of coke that might be half chalk dust. And a ticket to the Deni ute muster. Last year's.

Which suspension do you propose to use? The upper arm mounts to the inner guard are totally different between 32 and 34. If you're talking about using 34 radiator support panel, then it only makes sense to use the inners as well. And then you're forced to use 34 suspension. Not that that's a bad thing, as it is much better than the 32. But you're talking about major surgery of both the inners and outers.

Yes, absolutely. The centreplate is the main structural part of the gearbox. Everything is assembled onto it. If you want to powdercoat it, you have no option but for a complete disassembly of the clusters from it.

Nope. N1 blocks are nothing special. Follow my advice in your other threads to watch the videos. He's got no idea about RBs, obvs. Read the oil control thread, as advised. Stock will do. Any upgrade is an upgrade. The biggest issue on any RB26 build is the oil pump drive.

So, did you search? More than 20 years of actual stuff on this forum alone. viz. Most of these use plastic. https://www.google.com.au/search?q=r32+with+r34+front&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjkuNjK6PLmAhUFxzgGHRi9CcYQsAR6BAgGEAE&biw=1779&bih=888

Also, watch the Motive DVD videos with Platinum Racing Products on RB block testing. There may be a certain amount of overhype involved, but if nothing else they do tell you what to look for when testing the block. And I would certainly be testing a block before building. There's nothing worse that pouring $10k of goodies into an engine only to have it fall back out on the road.

What do you mean "conversion"? Are you talking about using original panels? You do realise that the R32 and the R34 are completely different shapes, right? You won't be able to stitch the rather vertical sided guards of the 34 onto the somewhat more curvy rear half of the R32 guards. Any such conversion you have seen done before (like the S15 onto S13 strawberry face conversion) involves complete replacement panels in fibreglass. Not steel stitched to steel. I'm not saying it is impossible, but it is not something you just "do". This would be a massive custom bodybuilding exercise to be undertaken by a skilled panelbeater.

Ahhaha! And you said you had no manual boost controller. How big a bleed valve do you need to equate to an open port? You just had it wound up to "kill".

How embarrassment!

Porting is ALWAYS worth it. Except when your budget does not allow for it. There's about $3k of work involved, and you don't need to port it to achieve the stated power goal.

The silver box resistor on the LHS suspension tower, stamped JECS 15-000J01 is the fuel pump dropping resistor. People always ask what that is.

My point (as quoted above) was that there are no resistors in the injector circuit on an RB20. Repeat, there IS NOT A 6 PACK OF IMPEDANCE MATCHING RESISTORS, such as is found on RB26s. RB20 injectors are high impedance. Nearly all modern injectors are also. Therefore, there is no reason to change anything when putting new injectors on an RB20.

I have Al bonnet on R32, and still occasionally ponder whether I should put struts onto it. It is certainly much easier/better/safer working under a bonnet that is held up by struts instead of the bonnet stay. It is reasonably easy to belt the stay with your elbow hard enough to give yourself a real fright.

Were you in a video that I saw the other day? Workplace accident next to the spa?