GTSBoy

Were you in a video that I saw the other day? Workplace accident next to the spa?

Have you looked at Amayama? https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/hv35/6820-vq30dd/electric/252

Is this a trick question? Got a Nissan part number on it? Go to Nissan spare parts counter with it in your hand. They're bound to be common to 20 other cars in Nissan's fleet at the same age.

Drill hole. Weld on fitting. You can thread a fitting into a hole in a thinwall pipe....but i'ts a bit shit, very highly recommended not to. If you are talking about aluminium casting, you should be able to tap a thread into it, but you need to be very careful about drilling and tapping swarf (ie make sure it doesn't go inside the pipework - preferably do it off the car).

Yes, that's the other big reason not to do it.

That's not the problem. The problem is that the wastegate is supposed to control the boost made by the turbo. If you connect downstream of the throttle and have the throttle partially open, there are conditions where the boost can be much higher upstream the throttle than it is supposed to be. The turbo ends up working harder (more exhaust backpressure) than it needs to. This is actually not a problem a lot of the time, but some very bizarre boost control problems sometimes happen when it is set up that way. It is far better to simply avoid it by doing it properly.

What. You mean like this? https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=r34+tein+bonnet&_sacat=0

You can google for images that people have created, print out and stick on with UHU glue. That's what I did for on my R32 20 years ago.

First things first, do NOT hook up the boost source line from the plenum. You really really want that signal line to come from immediately after the turbo, not downstream of the throttle. The pictures tell you the best place to get it. Second things second.....does the wastegate even move? Is it stuck? If you put compressed air on it instead, will it open? Etc.

RB20DET stock injectors are high impedance. RB26DETT stock injectors are low impedance. Guess which one had the resistor box.

If your mechanic cannot do it the way that I suggested, then a new mechanic would be a strong recommendation.

That's where the roll pin proof rag (and grease) comes into play.

Why not take it out, look at it and work out which Bosch or Walbro is the most suitable and just go with that?

If it's misfiring at 5 psi or so, then it is weak ignition. Your coils are the most likely culprits there. The boost control issue is not something that will be easy to diagnose across the 'net. Especially if you have had it apart lots. It will be something weird.

You broke something. Take it apart and fix it.

I have no idea where the fuse is on V series cars. but it won't likely be that, because it won't likely be a single fuse just for that purpose. If it was blown, other things would not be working.

You could do it. Jack the car up and see if the switch goes open-closed-open as you go N-R-N (with a multimeter, of course). And then if you find it's broken, rip it out and replace it. But otherwise, if you're not comfortable, yes, mechanic.

Well, teeing the boost sense line from the fuel pressure regulator is a bad idea anyway, because hacking into that line exposes it to more risk of accidentally opening up, which will fry the engine (due to lack of fuel) when under boost. It is also a bad idea to run the boost sense line from the plenum chamber anyway. It should not be sensed from downstream of the throttle. You should get the boost source from the turbo outlet If there is a nipple there, which there usually isn't on R33s) or on the turbo outlet pipe.

Yes there is a fuse. It will be the switch on the side of the gearbox/transmission that has failed though.

Find out if it is in the CV joint or in the spline in the hub. Fix whichever is worn.

You can trigger the starter motor with a 50c piece. Just have to short the start terminal onto the big battery terminal. No tricky electronicery required.

A stock one. Tune for anything else.

Yeah, but that's only true for stock type ECUs. The Nissan ECu seems to be able to punch through the jittery noise of the stock CAS at high rpm much better than all other ECUs. All the aftermarket ECUs just suck compared to the factory ECU, perhaps with the PowerFc being halfway between (as I suspect the PFC as being based on a Hitachi ECU anyway). But for anything where there is serious risk of timing jitter killing the engin at high rpm and loads (ie, any serious build), the factory CAS sucks balls and should be replaced with a proper trigger system - which includes a new cam sensor.

I'd guess you'd probably put 12V on the ACC also, but it probably won't change the result. I think that there will be at least some data signal pulse from one of the vehicle's computers to tell it what to do. Your best bet will be to make up a patch loom to plug into the car side of the wiring and the MFD so you can bring it out a few metres.

You'd better buy a replacement exhaust cam toot sweet.