GTSBoy

Use a 500mm long piece of garden hose as a stethoscope to find the source of the noise. It's fairly easy to work out whether it's high or low, front or rear of engine. Well, yes, obviously. But be aware that if the VVEL mechanism is f**ked, it could still make noise whether it is activated by the solenoid or not. The solenoid just determines whether it sees oil pressure to make it rotate, or not. Rod end? As in piston pin end? As little as $2k, to pull the engine out and do as little work as possible to replace just one noisy part. A rod bearing.....same sort of money. But really, if there is that much wear on one thing to make it noisy, it's fair to bet that there will be a lot of wear elsewhere and you would feel like a complete chump putting such an engine back together. In which case, the work could be just bottom end parts, or machining of the block also, or a full recon. Anywhere from that $2k absolute cheapest case up to maybe $6k. Could easily get more than that if you take the opportunity to do fun stuff. But I would suggest there is little to be gained from getting carried away in a V36.

Drill & tap a sense port for a boost gauge on the ex manifold and find out?

On any given engine, with the turbo matched properly to provide the same maximum power, that simply cannot be true any more. The EFRs are ALL about response. The G series Garretts have smaller wheels for the same flow than any of those previous gen GTs. The GT3582R may well be the fastest spooling of the old tech turbos, but that don't mean a thing when new tech comes along.

I would recommend only doing things once. Starting with AFMs and then redoing everything to suit MAP is wasted time and effort, and money. Sell the AFM cards and invest in a MAP sensor.

^ This. There is not really an "injector relay". The ECCS relay powers up the ECU. It's not a simple thing though, because there are feedback loops and delays etc. You need to study the wiring diagram and use a multimeter to probe the various lines as you turn the key on, and off (and wait for 30 sec for the relay to time out!) and so on, to understand how it works.

Would that not be to connect the correct wire from the ECU to the correct terminal on the new plug that you buy to go with the meter? The wiring diagrams are all easily findable.

Z32 are definitely compatible with R32. I take it that they have the ABS rings & shiz that you need?

I was just schmoozing through the GK-Tech catalogue and see that their fabricated R chassis front knuckles come in specific R32 and R33/4 versions. I don't know exactly what the difference is - but it would suggest that stock R33 probably won't just fall onto an R32. You'll either not win at all, or have to swap a number of other things.

They're up between the tank and the subframe. They definitely will be old and cracked. I replaced mine years ago because it started smelling & dripping.

The dashboard attachment to the firewall can move a little and squeak/rattle. Any and all of the HVAC ductwork can get dislodged and rattle. Any fool how has just thrown wiring up under the dash without securing it (stereo, gauges, etc) will cause rattles. The front suspension bushes can make noise that sounds like it's coming from under the dash (because it's effectively all the same steelwork). The list goes on and on. And R34 are at least as well built as R32, and both are only as well built as any other mass produced Jap car from the era - which is good but not great.

Places like Amayama tell you what you need to know https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/hcr32/3874-rb20dt/engine/130/13028M https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/ecr33/3915-rb25det/engine/130/13028M https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/skyline/bnr32/3885-rb26dett/engine/130/13028M

It only takes one proper moron to f**k a car. They are getting on for 30 years old now. I pulled the dents out of mine with a slide hammer and some hand made special tool attachments for it. And it's never given to someone I don't trust to put on a hoist.

The GT3582R is ALSO an old tech turbo. The other options you have been pointed to are mush better.

You can translate that stuff with Google. It's not always perfect (it's not always even good), but it can give you what you need. Same with the manual for the stereo itself, if you can manage to get a Jap version of it.

You didn't lose your Vic license. You were just "banned"** from driving in QLD for the period. **It's arguable that there really was no such ban and/or it was unenforceable. If they don't suspend or cancel your Vic license, you've still got a license. If they couldn't find your Vic license in the first place to stick it to, then you could easily present that license in QLD and they'd be none the wiser. They couldn't tell you that you were driving unlicensed, for example.

No, we're resolutely old school. Apps suck. Mobile version of the website works. Otherwise, G'day back at ya.

But do they make the noise!!!!!???

It's easy to tell. The RB20DEt box is literally half the size of the RB25 and VLT gearbox. The 25DET and VLT box are almost the same thing, but I think the code on the VLT box was MX7. And there's no need to go cutting and shutting the gearbox crossmember. There are 3 (actually 4) labelled A, B & C that all align differently and allow you to put pretty much any box in any chassis, for the most part, so long as you get the right one. And last tip. Don't turn the boost up on the R34. It will wear the little box out quite quickly.

No. There is no way that a burning lubricant can smell like a burning lubricant.

Just drill some holes in a truck turbo.

No. There are defined jacking points under the sills. Any moron in a workshop knows to put the lifting points on a 2 post hoist under these. There are shaped steel and rubber blocks that come with hoists to permit them to fit exactly. Why f**k with 50 years of experience?

Look on Yahoo Japan and use one of the English (or A Euro language able) services in Japan to buy and ship to you.

Have you looked at the RB26 inlet manifold? It comes complete with exactly what you are talking about.

Dunno. I went with a complete non-HICS subframe and therefore used the Nissan arms. I think a decent delete kit would use a spherical joint rather than a poly bush. I'm not sure that you need all that mush precision to set the rear toe. The coarser thread should still enable you to get the measurement you want.

You will make as much as the maximum flow of the turbos can achieve. Look to this thread. The only caveat is if the limits of the R35 injectors (or perhaps the AFMs, depending on what size tubes you have them in) are reached first. I can't be bothered working out if the turbos will run out of puff before the fuel supply does. You can do that. Use the Haltech as first preference. Much better choice, local tuning ability notwithstanding. PowerFC will do the job, but you are just leaving yourself so far in the distant past by going down that route. Also, if you go Haltech, you can drop the AFMs in the bin and put a MAP sensor on, for about 10x easier inlet plumbing etc.