GTSBoy

It's also pushing $5k to put the ECU and the display into the car! Nothing like a $200 tablet.

It's a bit of a hassle having to DIY. The Pi option is nice because it is easy to drive a proper screen from it - even a touchscreen. But then you have a Linux (or maybe Android) environment in which you have to cobble together your DAQ and presentation yourself. That's a project for people who can program or people who know how to leverage other people's programming and have no fear of bolting software elements together. An Arduino would be arguably 11ty times easier to grab the analogue signals and do some simple processing. But the presentation side could be a right pain. Big colour LCD screens are not so simple to do with Arduinos. Maybe the compromise is a little from column A and a little from column B. Use an Arduino to grab the data and present it via I2C or some other (likely more interconnect friendly) protocol to a Pi or a tablet. Still have to cobble together the presentation side unless you can impose on one of the dash crowds to come to the party.

I think it is unclear whether any of these options presented above (Realdash, PTD's dash) are able to handle arbitrary analogue inputs (like oil pressure). I was under the impression that they were mostly aimed at ECU data over the diagnostic interface, with limited other inputs (speed, etc). If the ECU don't know about it - the dash can't.

Some of it maybe, but there are clear signs of small jack heads pushing the lower surface of the rail up and leaving the sides less crushed. When a forklift wrecks rails, it crushes everything. See this here - obvious trolley jack head tooth marks! And here, the rail is punched upwards from below but the side of the rail are not punched up equally. This is definitely done by a jack, and you can see the teeth marks in the circled area too. A crash repairer will want thousands to fix this. I've spoken to a good crashie about this and he says it is uneconomic to fix them. You might do it on a $50k+ GTR, but not a rusted shitter.

You're gunna need a USB ADC if you want to connect real world gauges to a tablet. And that would require the USB port to be running as OTG, which can make it hard to charge the tablet, so you're going to need a tablet with a separate power port. The way you've asked your question leads me to think that it is too big a project.

Hit 1 at SAU via google https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462974-injector-dead-time-values/ Hit 2 at SAU via google https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173670-injector-latencies/?do=findComment&comment=3198856 There's obviously more available that way.

You ABSOLUTELY DO NOT jack up the car under the chassis rails. Those rails are f u c k e d and have obviously been used to jack the car. They are very close to unrecoverably f u c k e d and the care is totally defectable in Australia because of it. The only place to jack the car, using a scissor jack, is at the correct jacking points which are under the sill panels. You can see them very clearly when you look for them. If not using a scissor jack, then the only place is with a trolley jack or similar under the centre of the front subframe (very carefully!!!!) or under the diff/rear subframe as appropriate.

Well, if they're noisy, it will be more than just the seals. The thrusts have probably taken a lot of wear.

VCT is inlet only on R33 onwards RBs (no RBs prior to that had VCT). RB26 does not have VCT. There are aftermarket kits (HKS VCAM) to add it. It's not +/-20°. Only 20° total. It's activated by throttle % and across an RPM band ending at about 4500-4700 depending on which engine. Those figures are lobe centres, at rest.

Not talking about making custom knuckles. Just some alternative code rings and little brackets for sensors. But I'd look at R33 stuff first, just in case.

Ah, that's not quite true. On all the R chassis cars the suspension design is exactly the same between RWD and AWD cars. Double wishbone (for a flexible enough definition of wishbone). Same upper arms. Same-ish lower arms and uprights. But the lower arms are different between AWD and RWD cars and the uprights are different. As far as I know, it is not feasible to put AWD knuckles onto a RWD front end. I might be wrong about that - but the AWD knuckles are obviously very different, because they have the whole axle thing going on. I do not know if R33 RWD front knuckles will fit onto R32, but there is a very good chance that they will. Worth going to a wreckers and putting them side by side. I was thinking similar to Duncan. Probably best to find a way to fit a sheetmetal code ring somewhere and custom a bracket to hold a sensor.

Keep in mind that both 25 and 25Neo have VCT which swings the cams ~20°. On the Neo, the cam profiles were changed from the vanilla 25 to further improve emissions and fuel consumption, as part of the whole ELEV thing that drove the Neo programme in the first place.

^^This. I was going to say that unless it is one of the 2 or 3 very common conversions, you will have to design and make the adapters.

What!? You mean, he must ....... read the thread? Gasp!

That's the way to do it. One word of caution is not to assume that the flanges are straight and the fitment perfect on any of these cheap dumps. They often require a little f**king about with.

Welcome. The Ghibli is the turbo? You should turbo the 116!

Exhaust Manifold (Absolute) Pressure It's important. It's the opposite of boost. It's what makes the spinamathing chooch.

There is only one word. F U C K

The VQs came at the start of the era when OEMs were staring to use very thin piston rings and other design/spec choices like low ring tension, intended to reduce fuel consumption. Subaru motors got the worst of it, because there's nothing worse than a piston ring design that allows more oil to pass, on a horizontal cylinder.

Original one was probably plated. Clean that with a paste of sodium bicarbonate and an old toothbrush. Then once it is clean and reassembled, give it a good coating with some battery terminal protection spray.

Not the Suzuki ones, surely? That would have to be the shitty Spanish built Opel ones, and if so, no-one would cry if/when they died. That's just natural selection.

This.

Here's not asking about GTRs. He's asking about GTs. They're even rarer. It's not like there's a whole subforum for the NA crap on here!

Superglue? Cable ties? Epoxy putty? The options are endless.

That's "normal" in dealer speak, where they don't want to have to do any warranty work. I never check the oil in my Neo25 in the 10000km between services. If it ever starts using oil, I might be in trouble!