GTSBoy

I'm not sure I understand. You've f**ked the thread on a stud, not a bolt. I'm pretty sure that that stud is welded into that bracket and you are not going to gain any more clearance to turn a tap on it removed than you have wit it where it is. The correct fix here would be to remove the whole lot and grind back whatever welds locate that stud (probably on the top side) and get it out and weld in a replacement.

Welcome to the site. I used to spend a bit of time in West Chester. Nice part of the world. Hopefully, when you say "Philadelphia area", you don't mean downtown Philly! cheers

Following the manual tells you exactly what to do. Experience tells you what not to do and what you have to look out for , etc. Experience is usually gained at some cost. Either time, or money, or both.

Are you talking about automatics? What about the TCU? 4 speed TCU won't run the 5 speed.

Well, you could -- provided there were the same number of wires associated with each of the old and the new, which is not to be taken for granted. But on that assumption, yes, perfectly possible, and not particularly easier than just pulling the wires through a firewall opening. You have a couple of easily accessible ones to choose from you know.

GTR stuff won't do it. It's not wider, for a start. GTR suspension is both sufficiently different to make putting it into a RWD R32 a pain, and simultaneously not different enough to make it worthwhile. You'd have to make annoying swaps (the lower forks on GTR dampers are different to the through bolt on GTSt), and the front subframes are completely different, blah blah blah. Look at GK-Tech's catalogue. All their stuff is aimed at drifters (which appears to be aimed at pushing the lower arms out as far as possible in the quest for more camber) and essentially offers you a lot of what you're looking for. Almost none of it is particularly street legal..... You will end up running ~+10 offsets in order to achieve what you want. This is not particularly deep dish. Most GTSt owners would kill to be able to run that sort of offset.

Shouldn't think so. The old gauges are just going to sit there doing nothing? Just pull the new wiring into the cabin.

Fuel pump? Boost leak? AFM health? ECU?

None of those make sense. The only option that makes sense is LS1/2/3. Whatever the largest is that will go in under NCOP. Simply obscene amounts of power made easily and cheaply. Much more compact and light than any of those massive Jap engines. Oh, and manual. Man's engine means man's gearbox. None of that auto weenie transmission stuff.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the way they are wired is not as simple as you might imagine, and it leads to one dead all dead, like old xmas tree lights.

How flared are the arches on the 260RS? That will determine what fits. While the 260 is mechanically a 33GTR, the panels are not the same.....

Yes, the relay could have a fault. But I didn't say both switches would be dead. It only takes one dead to kill it. Usually the one that gets the most use, but could be either. And I wasn't recommending new switches. Take them apart and see what condition they're in.

Isn't it far more likely that the up contact on the switch is faulty? Dirty/burnt/broken off/etc? The left-right switches are connected. Look at the wiring diagram to see how. I think if one is dead, it can take down both.

Do you know that that offset will fit? And what is the gearing (and therefore speedo) change from such high profile tyres on such large diameter rims, compared to stock?

eBay.

Tell 'em the price, son.

No.....go back and read what I said. I find it very difficult to believe that your results are consistent. Try again before making any decisions. Also, a leakdown test is more informative than simple compression testing.

Bypass knock sensor with (500k resistor - I think. Look it up, it's findable). If the knock sensor is crook and it's running on the knock map, it will feel doughy. This should make it feel better. Then you just buy a new one.

No. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and drive it under load. This is proper diagnosis, not half-baled diagnosis. If the pressure doesn't do what it is supposed to do, then you blame the pump. Your reg is very unlikely to be crook.

R32 ECU diagnostic can be triggered with a screwdriver or a paper clip. Read all about it. It will be a boost leak, or a dying fuel pump as #1 suspects. After that, it is absolutely everything else in the engine bay. all the usual suspects. read all about it.

Now you shouldn't trust your technique. There's no way that it would have been ~110 before with a dud tester and now gone down to 90.

If so, then f**k!

Trusting a never-used-before-no-comparative-reference compression tester to give you numerically accurate values is a strong move. See above advice.

That's a hard no. Unless the PFC is tuned for exactly the same setup you have (and, how many other people would you expect to put a PFC on a stock motor???), it will not run it properly. Will need a tune. Does not need additional sensors - it is, by definition, a plug in replacement ECU. But not a "plug in a secondhand tuned for something else" replacement. It will not be useful for a Neo. No, this is clearly an electrical problem. You will have one of the thousand possible things that can go wrong naturally (from shit breaking, wearing out, vibrating loose, etc) or from uncle f**kthumbs who played with the wiring before. Break out the wiring diagrams and your multimeter and go fault find it and fix it. And no, none of us will be able to guess how and why it is doing it.

Trailer to dyno.