GTSBoy

You haven't met my sister-in-law, clearly.

What does this mean? Mishimoto is genuine nothing.

I don't know that it is harder to get parts for a Neo. What parts? 2nd hand or new? Electronics or pistons? Skipping past that, on the basis that it not the reason make your choice, the logical points are; The Neo is a better engine. It makes more power stock, because of better head design and slightly better management. It qualified as a low emissions vehicle when it was new, because of those changes. It has solid lifters which makes it better for high revs than the vanilla 25, although they are shim over bucket (unlike the RB26's shim under style) which does make them a little bit more prone to spitting shims if you do stupid things without taking that into account. They have the N1 oil pump stock. They use RB26 rods, which are a little better than vanilla 25s. They are newer, so you are a little more likely to get one in better condition than a 33 motor. The vanilla 25 will be easier to put into the R33. The wiring will be easier to achieve. The Neo has some sensors and connectors and the like that the 33 didn't have. So it is extra stuff that you have to allow for. But.....either way, you're transplanting a different engine in, so you have work to do regardless.

That's nice.

Don't waste your time putting an RB20DET into it. For very nearly the same up front cost, and exactly the same work, you would be better off putting a 25 into it. 1000x more driveable than the torqueless RB20 (as a street car).

Not necessarily rubbish. Mine is set up with zero toe and it is really nervous. Good fun and keeps me on my toes.

What is the rear toe after the alignment?

My bet is that the radiator or water pump or state of bleeding of the system are sad.

There's at least a big chunk of the problem.

Is the AC fan working?

Good for 20 years, or when the next piece of the VQ shits itself, whichever comes first.

Natch.

I've never had any trouble.

I have decided to not participate in this discussion any further. Please consider this an act of social distancing, to prevent the risk of infection.

What? Just buy the appropriate Ryco filter (or equivalent), pull the old one out and stick the new one in. No need to bleed lines or f**k about with priming. If you really want to "prime" anything, just turn the key on and wait for the pump to stop. Then turn it all off, wait a bit, and repeat. The ECU will do it all for you. If you are going to start stuffing about with replacing lines, then yes, it does need to be high pressure rated fuel line. And if you're going to replacing fuel line, don't cut anything, just pull it all the way off and replace from hard pipe to hard pipe.

You can't. And forfuxsake don't put bloody HCl on there!

We're Australian. We don't buy kits. We buy bits.

Anything will do. It's fine, along wih about 300 other options. Anything will do here too. Only if the gearbox needs help shifting. Do not use it in a healthy box. Anything will do here too. Just so long as it is for LSDs.

Black. Black is the correct answer, regardless of car colour.

a/t means Automatic Transmission. A good clue that something is f**ked down there. You don't blow fuses for no reason. Have you tried searching for "reverse switch auto" on here?

You have a vacuum leak somewhere, possibly an exhaust leak. Get yourself a piece of garden hose and go listening. This stuff is not so hard.

2nd hand ones used to change hands for more than the new ones do now. Just buy new. 2nd hand ones are all 3s away from breaking again anyway.

That RX looks straight out of the Cars animated film.

I thought the MC's sensor had a plug dangling on 2 wires, not hard mounted into the MC. That's the bit I was talking about. But a quick google image search shows me I was mistaken......hmmm. Contact ABS or other equivalent brake shop to see what they know and/or can get?

Take off sump. look for oil squirters. Other, less thorough option is to see if the injectors are DE or DET. Or you could look at the ECU's part number.