GTSBoy

The main problem is that 3D printed pieces, printed on affordable plastic filament printers, are usually crap. Fragile, ugly surface finish, etc etc. You can't make replacement parts for car interiors that match. You can make stuff that doesn't match. You can't cheaply 3D print suspension components, engine components, body panels, even plastic things like side skirts, bumpers, grilles, etc, are all too hard. Wait for the real manufacturing revolution, when nano becomes a thing, in about 60 years.

As I said, I would be aiming for at least 9.5:1 on any engine I was building these days. The fuel, the injectors, the coils and the computers have improved massively in 30 years.

Please define what you mean by vss. You do realise that the VSS is the Vehicle Speed Signal, as available on the wiring that connects to the ECU pin. It is an OUTPUT from the speedo. The speedo needs a signal from the speed sensor in the gearbox. RB20DET gearboxes do not have this sensor, because they have a cable driven speedo. As to the rest of it....I'm assuming that it's all just wired up wrong.

This is why I have not replied. And I put a Neo into a 32. And the wiring work is not so simple that I'm going to try to explain it over the 'net. It's not hard - it just takes thinking and effort. Put wiring diagram A next to wiring diagram B and make the differences go away.

Or perhaps the correct grammar version where you advise against it?

The V8 one is great, but as you say....nothing but trouble to get registered somewhere else. I also struggle to understand how it is engineered in QLD. The bonnet is something that simply can't be engineered, as far as I understand it. CF bonnets being a huge no-no unless the engineer is willing to put both cock and balls on the line. And the bloody thing doesn't even fit anyway - looks like shit.

Still forgot to post the link to the carsales search! https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/nissan/skyline/25gt-t-badge/

Here's the 20 or so GTTs on carsales at the moment. Some of the asking prices might be a little cane toad influenced, especially the $45k one. And the ones in the high 20s will probably not sell for those numbers. But the fact remains that these cars are perceived to be worth this sort of money (if only by the sellers). I can certainly picture a very good car going for over $25k again. Face it, cars like mine started out at the ~$20k region (20 years ago!) and went down to maybe $7k over 15 years and then turned around and are now worth** about as much as they started out at. **on the caveat that they are still in good condition, not drifted into phone poles.

You might have paid too much.

Not talking about helicoils or similar. Talking about the entire press in threaded boss. I pressed out the 14mm one on my 34 calipers and put in some 12mm ones that BenC34 had made up. So as to not have to drill the car.

Oh, OK. Well, either way, you won't notice any difference. I'd be aiming for >9.5:1 on any build I was doing these days.

Lol. I have an 1993 R32 that would sell for somewhere above $20k and maybe even as much as 25. 5 years older. Driven every day, 230000+ km. Nowhere near perfect, but in good condition. The R34 would have to be the next most desirable R chassis after the 32 (for those that like 32s) and the most desirable R chassis (for those that aren't as hot for 32s). If mine is worth that sort of money, a much newer, less used R34, would have to be worth the same sort of money or a bit more.

Neo ECU is for Neo, not vanilla 25. Has some sensors that the vanilla one doesn't have, leading you to have to dick around to try to make it work. Just skip it. Do the ECU properly. NA ECU, or any ECU for a 2.5L motor, should not be expected to fuel a 3L motor correctly without tuning. Vanilla RB25 ECUs cannot be tuned (easily - certainly don't take Nistune), ergo, they should not be contemplated for this sort of job.

RB25 ECU cannot be Nistuned. You can use a Nistuned R32 ECU, with a little fiddling. Going to that effort, you should probably just use a Haltech/Link/whatever the first time. You will not get a 3L to run off a 25 NA ECU. All RB starters fit. Don't worry about the studs. But if you are mating a different head to a different block, then you have a prize opportunity to put ARP studs in at the outset. Don't think about it as spending more money than you need to. Think about it simply as being a bloody good idea. There's nothing wrong with using an NA head. The best choice used to be the (now rather hard to find) R32 RB25 NA head (because no VCT). The wiring loom, for the most part, attaches to shit on the head. Not the block. But don't go into this thinking that you won't have to sort out some plugs and shit here and there.

How can a thicker gasket increase compression ratio?

Really, if it's not yours yet, and you're not real experienced with cars, you need to take along someone who is, with tools, some diagnostic equipment (like a multimeter), and some time.

Oh, hang on....earlier, you said "power is going to everything except starter". Does that mean it won't crank? Then look at my first reply, which includes rotation in the list of necessities. And now you have to work out why it won't crank. Basic automotive fault finding at its finest. Hop to it.

Are the injectors pulsing? Are they letting out fuel when they do? Are the coils firing? Are the spark plugs sparking when they do? If these are not, then either the fuel supply or the power supply to the injectors is down, or the same for the coils (minus the fuel flow). If neither of these are working you are probably down an important sensor, like the CAS, or the AFM. If these are all working then all your important sensors are probably good. If you have all that shit working, then the next question might be, does it have compression. This is the method for working out why it doesn't start. You also need to be able to touch the car. It's very hard from here.

Fuel flow, spark jump, rotation, compression. Those are the things you need to have.

Shim over bucket. Don't even think** that it is "as good as" an RB26 from that point of view. Rev it too fast and you stand a very good chance of spitting shims and saying goodbye to some $$. I would suggest not much more than 8500 rpm unless sworn to and guaranteed by a person who has experience setting up Neo heads with similar cams and springs and knows what they will and won't do. No. Do not "let the tuner play with it". Tuners and engine builders and not always the same thing. Some tuners know f**k all about the metal bits. Ask the guy who knows about the metal bits. ** That's an instruction, not my opinion.

I'm also not sure if the R34 NAs went to the 14mm caliper bolts like the turbos did. If they are still at 12mm, then fitting R34 turbo calipers requires changing the threaded inserts in the calipers. If the NAs are 12mm, the you could fit R33 calipers easily enough (on the 296mm rotor) or you could fit R32 calipers (preferably using a dogbone to push them out so you can use the 324mm rotor - which you CANNOT do nicely with the R33 caliper). The info on 12/14mm is available on here. I just can't remember.

AYC is the bit that serious EVO owners disable by fitting an RS diff anyway, for the same reasons that serious GTSt owners completely disable HICAS. It f**ks with the purity. R32 GTSt is a very capable vehicle..... after an engine transplant. 2L is not big enough for a 6 cylinder. No torque off boost. None at all. Bang in an RB25 (or anything bigger than that) in, with suitable gearbox. Add mechanical diff of some sort, bigger brakes (if planning on beating on them hard) proper suspension (springs and dampers or $3k+ worth of coilovers), change out almost every bush for a suitable selection of urethane, spherical steel. Delete HICAS. Fix the front upper arm problem. Add frontmount, fuel system, probably ignition if staying with a Nissan motor. Upgrade engine management. Better seats, better headlights. The really serious will then move on to replacing the rear subframe with an S14 or similar, to improve the geometry. The list goes on.

$10 at Jaycar. Pull a fuse, set meter to correct current range (leads in the right sockets on the meter, 2A or 20A range most likely). Start at 20A and turn down to 2A if not enough current seen to convince you that anything is chewing).

Do you have a multimeter? You know you can measure this shit directly, in a few seconds, yes?