GTSBoy

Not "stock". Maybe a dealer fitted option. But not stock.

A weathershield is stock? Have you looked at eBay? Every terrible thing you could want to bolt onto an R32 is available there.

Same same. Have you not looked at photos?

Absolutely not. Boost sensor lives at the back end of the engine. Nowhere near the inner guard/airbox area.

I have zero idea about SR flywheels and clutches. Something about not f**king with tractor engines.

Well, that's me out then.

Yes, it is all under the heatshield. But if you look from the front, you can and will see it. Take the inlet pipe off if you have to.

It looks alarmingly British.

All non-GTR R32s have the same panels forward of the firewall. So bonnets are the same. Carbon fibre bonnets are a questionable purchase. Many many $$ for one worth owning. The ones that you feel comfortable paying for (ie, not as expensive) are usually pretty poor in terms of fitment, and/or how long they last. Raw CF looks cool, but it's really meant to be painted to stop it from going to crap as the clear coat fails. And painted CF doesn't advertise that it's CF, so its pointless unless you're going racing and need to save the weight for real. And they are illegal here in Australia because they interfere with the crash performance of the car, so you won't get too much experience out of our users. The wastegate actuator is bolted onto the turbo. Look for the boost sense line coming off the front of the compressor cover. Follow it about 4" to the wastegate's actuator can. That's it.

Speed sensor does not connect direct to ECU. Search for the thousands of posts I have made on this topic.

That will need a lot of wet sanding before you could even consider a heavy cutting compound. You'd be better off rattle canning it.

Get the R32 GTR workshop/service manual from one of the million easily findable places where it can be downloaded and use the very extensive and correct wire by wire wiring diagrams. These show you what is connected to what. For the why (of things being connected) you may need to do some "how things work" research into how alternators work. Once the wiring makes sense, you can troubleshoot it.

That's not a thing. Stock WG spring on RB25 is 5 psi, lifted to 7 by the bleed solenoid.

Work with the wiring diagram. Don't fly blind or you will let the smoke out.

Ah, I didn't catch the 3 alternators bit..... Means broken wire somewhere.

You don't need any measurements. Just set string lines up next to the car, parallel to the car and each other. Set the wheel straight ahead. Set the tie rod lengths so that the wheels are parallel to the string lines, then wind them out a little bit to get some toe-in. There are tutorials all over the place on how to do this stuff.

The light is part of a circuit through the alternator to provide the exciter current to get the alternator going. If the globe is good and the wiring is good.....then that kinda leaves the alternator as being bad, doesn't it? Logic?

When the AFM is unplugged the ECU drops back to some default limp settings that will get it past troublesome shit like f**koff big vacuum leaks.

Just set up some string lines and do it that way.

And just for completeness and correctness, to ensure that my small elements of misinformation above are covered over - the RB25DET uses the same type of separate air regulator that provides the cold start idle up as appeared on the RB20 and 26. It looks like this So, the purple plug on the Rb25 IACV is not for a heater, it's definitely for the air-con idle up. The heater connection is on the air reg pictured above. The Neo does away with the air reg as a separate thing and puts it into the IACV with water heating, as I said before. There is no air-con idle up as a separate thing either. It's just done through the IACV (as far as I can tell).

Although, having said the above, and then having done 3 seconds of googling because I don't actually care about R33 IACVs enough....I think the purple one may be a simple on/off solenoid for air-con idle-up. Look at the wiring diagram to see what is true! From one of the many previous times that this has been discussed.

Yuh, my point was that there are two plugs, and one is clearly able to be worked out that it drives the stepper motor valve, and the other is easily seen to not be connected to the stepper motor valve and therefore must run the heater. It's not like it's a black box with no details on it. I will also remind you that I said that if you don't run the heater on either IACV (either by putting coolant through the Neo one, or hooking up the heater on the vanilla one) then the cold start valve will stay wide open in both of them and give you a very high idle that the stepper motor part of the IACV will not be able to close down enough to get under control. If you look in Nistune**, when the engine is warm and the cold start idle up valve is heated closed, the ECU should report the number of "steps" that the IACV is open and you really don't want that to go below about 30. It will do so if it is trying to fight the cold start valve. **I'm not suggesting that you go and look in Nistune, just a general "you" to describe the process. Here is a picture of an R33 IACV. Which connector do you think is wired to the stepper valve? Which one do you think might simply be a heater?

It's low. Not critically low, but very low compared to where it should be. But, as I always say to people.....do you trust the compression tester?

The RB30 block is taller (than smaller RBs) and not particularly well braced in the casting (like all RBs). That makes it a little more prone to deflections. From what I can gather, while the stock girdle, when run with a grout fill, is probably good enough at the power levels you're talking about, it is relatively cheap insurance to throw some more money at it to stop it flinging all your expensive internals all over the engine bay. Face it - 30 blocks are all vintage items now and you can either argue that the ones that are left are the survivors or you can argue that they're all going to be aging out. It is a crap shoot and you can only ever run the experiment on a given block the once.

Partial grout fill would be assumed, I would have thought!