GTSBoy

Yes, as I said above, the NA RB25 box is physically the same thing as the RB20DET box. Slightly different ratios. All else same. I'm not expert on S13s, but I can't imagine that you will. There is very little difference between S13 and R32 and the big box goes into R32 no problem and thousands of people have put the big box into S chassis cars, and I've not heard anyone complain of even needing to clearance with a hammer. Big box all the way. The little boxes don't like lots of torque and you are going to be running at the bottom end of the range where they just have a short life. Which is no fun.

Ouch. That sort of software "bug" is an absolute bastard to plan for in the hardware and software specification stage and in the programming/testing phase. There are so many possible random such things that could go wrong, it would be hard to imagine them all. I guess Haltech could take a leaf from the designers of safety critical systems and just make sure that all outputs are off (assumed to be the safe state) at all times when not required - which would be especially true of those edge cases where the ECU program is not actually in charge, ie during flashing. Just needs one or two interlocks to be put in place. It's surprising that they can fix it just with a firmware update though - so maybe they have already had the physical side of it in place in the original design, older firmwares were doing it properly and somewhere along the way the software side of it got lost or bugged out.

Does it have stock injectors? If they are much bigger than stock, then starts/runs might be a fantasy.

Just take it to an auto-electrician. He will find your broken/shorted wire in about 30 minutes and you will be fixed.

RB25DET boxes are physically huge. Basically the same length as RB20DET & RB25DE, but seemingly twice as fat and heavy. You would know if you had a 25DET box there. Here's an RB20DET box. The RB25DE box is basically the same. Does not look different. Here's an RB25DET box. Note how bloody huge it is. The bellhousing barely tapers to the body! Here's an S14 SR20DET box. You can see it's clearly not the same (in the rear housing) as the RB20DET box.

If I have to google a picture of the R33 IACV so I can look at it and work out, FROM A PICTURE, which plug is which, I'm going to scream. One of them will clearly look like it connects to the bloody valve, and one of them won't.

In all seriousness, the harder rubber bushes are superior to life with poly bushes. The level of compliance is still nice and low, like poly, but they don't end up squeaking. Not that all poly bushes do, but it is a serious risk (serious for those that can't stand it!)

The Neo IACV has water through it to provide the heat to close the wax pellet for the fast/cold idle up. The R33 one is heated electrically. All you have to do is not hook up the plug that is connected to the heater and just hook up the plug that is obviously connected to the valve itself. But there's a problem. If you don't heat these things, you will end up with cold fast idle all the time, because the cold idle bypass is quite large and you should not drive the IACV as closed as you need to to beat that.

Download the R32 GTR service manual. Plenty of line diagrams in there. There have even been recent posting on these forums on the topic.

It's a cover plate for the wiring, not a "bar", as such. Best to leave it there. If you need clearance at the ends of it for speaker grilles, feel free to trim some metal off it.

Never relocate wiring from in the engine bay to near the wheels unless you are going to lose points for it in a dolphin waxing exhibition. Why make them more prone to damage from road thrown debris? Why make them harder to access? Oil cooler on the LHS is fine. As to adjustable arms. Cheaper is not a solid reason to buy these things. There are many many different arms available. The cheap ones are bulk Chinese manufacture and may be suspect in terms of overall quality. Of course, they could be fine - but you won't know until it breaks and puts you into a truck. The spherical joints on the cheap ones simply cannot be high quality, that's for sure. The really expensive brand name ones are usually top quality, but charging more than they are really worth. In the middle, you get brands like Hardrace, that are definitely good. I have them on the rear with the hardened rubber bushes (rather than spherical joints).

Get wiring diagram and multimeter and start fault finding. Otherwise, take it to an auto-electrician

The parts behind the wheels tend to get called spats, for not very good reasons. The parts in front of the wheels are the rear part of the sideskirt. They're 3 piece skirts, but there are also 1 piece skirts that look the same (but aren't genuine).

Something broke.

FFS! So, you google extensively, find the same answers and then throw a tanty because no-one does the thing you want?

Oh, AND REMEMBER TO VOTE REPUBLICAN!

I'm seeing some very wilful ignorance playing out here. Not one mention of boost flowing backwards through the catch can from the wonderful advised method of connecting it up after the turbo. Beauty may only be skin deep, but stupid, well that goes all the way down to the bone.

Oh.My.God.

And how does that differ from what I posted? SR engine connected to VG transmission. Does not matter what the chassis is when it is just that one connection that you need to know about. And as I said, it has been done bajjillions of times before, so there must be many many people who have discussed it on the interpipes.

Welcome. I'm known for saying nasty things about the way that R33s look. But I like that one a lot.

I don't have first hand knowledge because of my zero care for SR20s and less than zero care for VGs......but VG gearbox into SR20 engined S chassis cars is such a common thing that there would have to be 625x10^887 mentions of how to do it on the internet already. Just have a strong google.

Don't know it. But the dipstick is about 10% of the required cross sectional area!

Oil has to go down the holes in the block. Blowby gases from the crankcase are coming up. The more power any given engine is making, the more the crankcase gas flowrate increases. There comes a point where the gas flow up prevents the oil flow down. One long blast of high power can take a lot of oil from the sump and trap it in the head. (Obviously). The answer is to provide more cross sectional area for the gases to flow out of the crankcase without competing for the path that the oil uses. Hence the crankcase vent. That is the distillation of the "why" part of the oil control thread. The recipes for success have some variation, but they all follow broadly what Kiwi said.

Yup, because it is really bad for the environment. Hydrocarbon emissions are a major contributor to smog, cause respiratory problems and almost certainly have cyclic/polycyclic aromatics in them that are almost all carcinogenic. Venting to atmosphere is the lazy way to deal with the problem. A real engineer put best efforts into everything. And it's illegal.

No vac on R32 PS. That's an R34 thing. Dunno about R33. The big diff between R32 & R3>2 is the rear rack hydraulic actuation became electric actuation. Plus smarter HICAS electronics.... perhaps. Everything else is just detail differences.