GTSBoy

I have no idea if the same "risk" exists on R34s as on R32s, but a long time ago (on my R32) I had the O2 sensor's heater wire burn up in the loom. It damaged the wire that goes to the power steering (solenoid, I think, on the rack, I think) and I lost PS and it went full heavy. I mention this because if you have been buggering around with the turbo, then the exhaust & O2 sensor have definitely been moved/bumped/etc and it's possible that you might have damaged the wiring (whether to cause a similar problem to what I had, or just coincidentally managed to bork the PS wiring, assuming the R34 loom is similar to the R32 in what wires are where).

Yuh, so Kiwi's statement is still correct. He said "no turbo option on the M35 Stagea VQ35 ". The operative bit being VQ35. So the real question is "can you bolt VQ25DET stuff onto VQ35 (NA)?". And, I am 110% sure that this question has been asked on here a number of times before. Just search!

Just take it to a mechanic.

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=rb25det+turbo+water+feed&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjd-uvPmrLlAhU0meYKHQh0AwIQ_AUIESgB&biw=1531&bih=817 https://www.google.com.au/search?biw=1531&bih=817&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=HTCwXYBz3pXCA5SKjdgN&q=rb25det+turbo+water+return&oq=rb25det+turbo+water+return&gs_l=img.3...33813.35701..36024...0.0..0.233.1744.0j9j1......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......0.fZGBa9-PxfE&ved=0ahUKEwjA9ZrRmrLlAhXeinAKHRRFA9sQ4dUDCAY&uact=5 There are so many clues in that lot.

If I can find it in less than a few minutes of googling, i will be very mad.

If it is castable, I can point you to a prototyping outfit in China that do good work for not many buckkeroons. What you do is send them a 3D drawing of something that is quite similar to what you want (but not actually exactly what you want) for scoping & quoting. If you don't decide to go forward, your IP is not sitting in someone's office in China. If you do decide to go forward, you send them the actual design and your commercial relationship with them gives you warm fuzzies (while they probably steal your shit anyway!)

Hmm. Front does look like 400R. Skirts are marginal. Certainly most of the way to questionable. The spats are "take off and nuke it from orbit" horrible. Can't help with the identification thereof.

I think there will soon be a revolution in manifold design and manufacture techniques. We're seeing it in industry now with the various rapid prototyping options that are around. But even with what I do, it is becoming so easy to draw something with a fairly complicated shape and get it cast in high grade stainless in China and shipped to Australia in a week or so. So I have no doubt that manifold collectors and the like will start getting drawn by the more skilled workshop operators here in Oz and done using similar methods. It's all getting increasingly possible. It just seems difficult if you remain in the hand fabbed tube manifold world and don't look elsewhere. I'm not saying that whole manifolds will get done that way, but the tricky parts to make by hand (so that they work and don't break) could certainly be done using new techniques. All it needs is someone to take the plunge and start. They will build up a design library and work out when it is better to cast, or when you should just 3d metal print, etc etc.

I dunno. I've bought 5" & 6" v-band sets out of China over the last couple of years (for other applications) for only a handful of dollars. There doesn't seem to be any reason why a v-band can't be large enough to flow all the gas you want and there isn't really much of a reason why dividers couldn't be arranged to provide sufficient separation through the joint area. Tolerancing would become more critical perhaps. I imagine a divider that comes up out of the turbo's inlet flange that meets a split divider coming out of the manifold. By "split divider" I mean a divider that is not as narrow - is wide enough for a slit in the edge facing the turbo's divider. The turbo's tongue then slips into the other one's slit** and doesn't go all the way in to the bottom of the slit. So there is some room for thermal expansion, something of a labyrinth seal to reduce cross talk in the pulses. (I've had similar ideas for twin into single wastegates, except that they're not as critical because when it matters most you can get the wastegate's poppet valve to close up on the divider.) **It's not as dirty as it sounds.

I'm at the point of wondering why all turbo manufacturers don't just say, "Right now, as of this moment, no more flanged housings. We're only doing V-bands and all of you boost monkeys are just gunna have to come with us." After 3-6 months of predictable internet moaning, the new world order would be in place and none of the GenZs would even remember that you used to be able to get them with a flange.

Dodgy soldered connections inside would be a likely candidate. Needs lid removal and reflow the joints.

You might consider doing some searching to see if someone has posted categorically that the ports on DEs (and hence the runners on the manifold) are smaller. I would expect they are, but as I have never cared to be in the same suburb as an RB20DE, I've never bothered remembering.

Obviously you want the R32 bar. And toe arms (you can't use your old HICAS tie rods, and nor would you want to). Whether you choose poly bushes or sphericals for the outer ends of the toe arms depends on whether you value quiet/comfort or accuracy. In this particular application I would suggest that the poly would not offer any significant improvement in noise and harshness and would choose sphericals. There are caveats with sphericals in that they require extra care to install and set up, and they are possibly not strictly legal on Australian roads.

I have bought inners and outer of those for a 2dr recently. They're available, but not cheap. Not horrifying expensive yet either. But....4 dr? Who knows? Your best bet will probably be to enquire at Amayama and jp-carparts.com to see what's available. You won't massage them back to life, is my bet.

Better put up a photo & point out what you're talking about. Seals on the body that the top of the door glass seals against? Seals on the top edge of the door (inner & outer) that the glass slides up between? 2dr or 4dr.

Get the R32 GTR manual or diagrams. Not labelled quite as you seem to want. But if you can't work out what is what, you need more help!

I think the pressure switch is independent of HICAS. But I might be wrong. Cefiros definitely did not have HICAS. Most R32s (of any interest, not the shitty base ones) had HICAS. There is a solenoid valve on the front rack that gives the variable power assist, which is associated with HICAS. When certain things** involved in HICAS are killed/removed, you get dead heavy steering on R32s. **like the HICAS computer for a start! I would suggest that your rack might have come from a Skyline. Have you ever driven this thing? If it has the solenoid and it is unpowered, I would expect heavy steering. As to everything else....what are you doing for wiring diagrams? The full R32 RB20DET wiring diagram is available in the R32 GTR manual, which is freely downloadable in lots of places. Cefiro, I don't know. Maybe there's one somewhere. But attempting this without at least the R32 drawings would be a mad thing to do!

I think the cult of Precision is winding down now. The choices seem to be more in the Garret G series and the BW EFR. EFRs are very well proven in the power range you're talking about.

Good man.

It's probably the air-con's ambient air temp sensor.

Sorry mate. I handed to my bro-in-law, in his workshop, and he handed it back to me about 2 minutes later with the plugs all out. We proceeded to bathe it liberally in the most aggressive solvents we could find, then reassembled. From what I gathered, it wasn't hard to get it apart.

PowerFC is cheap, old, and only to be considered if you don't have the budget to go modern. Haltech's top ECUs are great. Link's top end stuff ditto.

Yuh, 400 whp is a piece of piss of the OEM manifold. And more is quite doable with the work described above.

RB20 R32 doesn't have one. Where you relocate it on an RB26 is really up to you. It's on the passenger side on RB25s because it's simpler that way. The boost source is at the turbo. It's on the driver's side on RB26s, because the boost source is the plenum. Nissan could have put the solenoid on the turbo side on the 26s, but it's pretty crowded over there. And hot. So I guess they chose based on those considerations. Don't make the lines any longer than you have to.

My guess is that a Gen3 + turbo has about double the capacity and double the cool factor as a dirty old RB30....V8 sounds, and no more weight.