GTSBoy

I think he means the front end panels.

Probably converted from an NA using a Stagea engine.

NP. Glad you could do it yourself. I've pretty much given up on suggesting that people break out a soldering iron!

Borrow a scan tool. Pay deposit. Walk it around the corner. Use it. Take it back. Take a mechanic with you if they won't let it out of their sight.

This, and more of this. The smart approach to codes is scan tools. You cannot make a system go into diagnostic mode if the song and dance required to make it do so relies on one of the inputs that might need diagnosis.

Get the codes out of it and find out what it is unhappy about.

R33 GTST 4 piston / spot / pot calipers. In good working order. Came off my car working, removed due to an upgrade. Still wet with fluid inside. Seals look good. Have been stored wrapped in plastic in a box in the shed. Complete with pins, shims and cross springs. All good, just need a clean. The short hard lines are attached. I have OEM rubber lines for and R32 if you need. Also removed from my car working, as part of the upgrade. I have some ~50% used stock (or maybe Bendix Ultimate) type pads that will suit, if you need. No charge. I have matching 296mm rotors if you're desperate. But they are only just over 28mm thick and will likely go below minimum if they're skimmed. Not worth shipping these anywhere - better off putting the money towards new rotors. Asking $300 shipped in Australia. Polite offers considered.

Hi, R34 GT-T 2dr / coupe seats. They're in pretty good condition. I bought them and never installed them in anything. I only put a little effort into cleaning them up. The driver's seat shows a little pilling on the pale grey part of the seat base, a little discolouration on the lower part of the seat back. I also did a little repair to the foam on the RHS thigh bolster. Passenger seat has nothing worth pointing out. Photos should tell the tale. No seat belt buckles on these. I would like to move them on without losing too much money. So I'm looking for $200 or other polite offers. At this price/value point, it's barely worth the effort to find boxes and go to the effort to ship them anywhere. So prefer sale in/around Adelaide. If you wanna inspect, that can be arranged in the northern 'burbs or central west (Thebarton) easily enough. Oh - one last thing. I did pull out the locating pins under the driver's RHS rail/runner. They dowel down into the floor's cross frame through the carpet. These are not essential (earlier cars didn't have them). I still have them and they could be straightened up and put back on if you need/want.

ECCS relay would be my number 1 suspicion. Either it's faulty, or the wiring for it is not right courtesy of the transplant.

I think they need to put up a similar resistance as a normal globe.

Or come for a drive in my car and realise that you don't have any problems at all!

If the ECU got really wet, make sure that the plug pins are clean and dry. You might also have accidentally pushed one or more of them back out of the plug when refitting the ECU, which sometimes happens when more force than finesse is used.

I'm not sure what modification is required to fit a GTR bar to a GTSt. Mine has had 3 on it (the one that came from Japan with it, and 2x replacements repairs due to arseholes crashing into it!). They just seem to go on without a struggle. Of course, my car also has the GTR headlights, indicators, grille and bonnet, just in case any of those affect the fit, particularly towards the outer ends. You can buy GTR bumpers new. Not cheap, but readily available. As to the JSAI etc one. No experience, but they look fine.

With the caveat that too much/many pumps leads to fuel heating problems unless you put the effort in to control the pumps properly.

Just lift it and poke it in. Same as almost every RWD in-line engined car sine the 1920s.

Stageas had no traction control motor on the throttlebody. The R34 engines did. I can't speak authoritatively on what might have been the case with Neo turbos in other chassis.

If it's the speedo, just pay an instrument shop to fix it.

The voltage transmitted from the speedo head to the ECU is a 0-5v square wave. It is PWM, so the pulses change width according to speed. Trying to measure that properly with a DMM is not the best idea. An oscilloscope is the best bet. Anyway, if you have a constant 5V there it suggests that the speedo head is not doing what it is supposed to. It's unlikely to be the sensor. If you connect a mutlimeter on AC volts setting to the sensor and drive, you should see a 0.6v to 1v sort of reading. And obviously any of the connectors in the circuits could be janky.

Yes.

Put a scan tool on it, interrogate the ABS CU to find out what it is upset about, and start with fixing those things. More than likely, because ATESSA, HICAS, TCS and ABS are all mixed up together, crippling one of them can make all of them go sad. (yes, I know you don't have HICAS or TS, but you get the point, right?)

More than likely it's the ECCS relay, next to the ECU.

Just the difference between closet and out perhaps.

Turbo timer is the other possibility.

You won't find very many in Oz. They didn't fit any of the Venn diagram overlap between the import rules and desirability. You'd probably be best off asking Import Monster or similar to get you something out of Japan.