GTSBoy

Well. That answers that question then. It is possible to look gay and like a douche at the same time.

I cannot quite believe the things we are asked to do from bloody photos! How are we supposed to know what some retard did on your car years ago?

I am having a very hard time working out how this is possible. 4th gear on same selector fork as 3rd gear. Right? The user can change from 3rd into 4th. Right? Presumably, can change out of 4th and back into 3rd, right? Or even go down to 1st or 2nd? Right? So, gearbox is acting perfectly in the lower 4 gears. Right? So, I posit to you, that if you try to change to 5th, you move the selector out of 4th.....it should be in bloody neutral. Not 4th!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The shenanigans going on inside this box would appear to be larger than "staying in 4th when trying to change to 5th", because that doesn't sound possible.

Et's a warrunt of futniss.

No! The rule against 3 spokes is universal!

Cranks are same. Spigot bush pressed in the back of it is different for auto/man. I'm not absolutely sure with RB25s, but at least with R32 RB20s, the autos ran at 20° idle timing and the manuals at 15°. This needs to be set correctly with a timing light (obviously enough) and is something that should be carefully checked if doing a swap such as you're describing, in case you end up with a manual ECU thinking it is set at 15° when the CAS is set to give 20° and the extra 5° turns up in the timing at peak torque.

Been the same gearbox even with the RB20 in front of it in the R32 GTS4. It's the ATESSA that's different between GTRs and the light duty versions.

Well, the OP asked about wheels for a SILVER car, so I went with black, which is the best option for white or silver cars. Beyond that, those wheels above are too fru-fru for me. What is with that extra ring of material joining the spokes? As a 12 spoke without that ring....they'd be OK.

Squirt it with a high pressure hose in various places and see if it gets wet?

This is the test.

Attempts to put 5 speed auto into 4 speed auto car are going to end in WTF threads.

I'm pretty sure one is H1 and the other is H3.

Pressure leak. Either exhaust (turbo gasket, etc) or boost. Seek, and ye shall find.

Ah, yes, good point.

The ignitor is 6 transistors. The inputs to it are 1x main earth (which, confusingly, lives on the same side as the outputs to the coils) and 6x trigger wires coming from the ECU. When the ECU decides it wants to fire a coil, it pulls its output low, which switches off the transistor which removes the charging power from the coil which makes the coil discharge. It's not something that makes a lot of sense to go measuring resistances on. The test of it's function is to manually power the inputs and see what happens to the outputs. With neither plug connected, but an earth made to pin 7 on the output side, putting power on any input should make the corresponding transistor switch on, and therefore the corresponding output should have conductivity to earth. If you look at the wiring diagram you can easily work out where the power comes from. Power to run the coil side is connected directly to the coils, and it is this power that flows through the activated transistors to earth on the output side of the ignitor). Power to "switch on" the transistors comes from the ECU and flows to the same earth on pin 7.

Wassat? f**k up the operation of AFM load sensing? Check!

There's almost no differences in the dirty stuff down low (driveshafts, etc). Is it an auto or manual? If auto, there's possibly a whole range of things that will leap up to bite you on the arse. I think the auto TCU is a separate box on the NAs, whereas it is integrated in the ECU on the turbos. Do not put the DET ECU into it and attempt to hook it up to the old loom. Pull the NA engine look out all the way from the ECU and replace with the DET engine loom.

No, not outdated. Uses the original ECU, which is a really solid choice for a lightly modded engine, because the Nissan ECU already knows how to make the best use of the CAS signal, idle control, etc etc. On top of that, Matt @ Nistune is constantly developing the product, and it can do all sort of things that used to be only able to be achieved with expensive aftermarket ECUs. You can have flex-fuel now, for example. Nistune is a bit limited compared to very modern aftermarket ECUs, but I would choose (and have chosen) Nistune of PFC every single time.

Aaw, c'mon. Two points here. 1) Whilst I understand why the TT design includes the handbrake interlock, wiring it in is a complete pain in the arse, both in terms of actually wiring it in, and also in terms of having to pull on the handbrake before you turn off the key. And 2)

If you are using a DMM to measure what's going on it's anyone's guess what voltage you would see. The optical switches will go from 0-5V every time a slot passes. A DMM is not fast enough racting to show these transitions, so on the 1° pin you will likely/possibly see a constant voltage between 0 and 5v. But....that's not great diagnostically. You're not getting the full story. On the 120° pin (actually, if you take the 1° pin to be 1°, then the other pin is actually 60°) frequency of switching is 1/60th of the 1° pin's, so depending on whether it's spending more time at 0v or at 5v, you will either see a lower or higher voltage on it than the 1° pin. I wouldn't know what to expect because I would never try to use a DMM tp probe the CAS pins while cranking. Time for a compression test. And take the cam covers off and make sure you haven't broken a cam.

That's not how the CAS works. The CAS has a couple of optical switches in it that turn on and off every time a slot goes past the sensors. One pin is power in, one pin is earth. The other 2 pins are the output of the switches to the ECU. You should not be expecting constant voltages on any pin on the CAS that actually matters (apart from the power supply), and of course you should expect the output pins to change as you turn it. One of them will change state at every single degree of rotation. Anyway, are the injectors actually pulsing?

A good portion of the roads in Fiji are built from surplus speedhumps imported from Albania. At least that's what it feels like. As much as it is heresy to say so on here (please god, don't let slap find this thread) I would choose an Evo or an STI over a Skyline (in Fiji and places like it) simply because they work well even with high ride height and "rally" style suspension. Hell, for half the roads within easy reach of my house I'd be better off with EVO/WRX style vehicle.

Jack it up high like the MCM Outfap to handle the roads?

Are you aware that the RB20 ECU gives no fark for the TPS voltage? It's not an RB25. The RB20 uses the closed throttle switch and the 100% throttle switch. The potentiometer output on the TPS is used by the TCU only. Stop trying to set it the way that you do for an RB25. The correct approach is to adjust it so that when the engine is running at idle, when you _just_ tweak the throttle open the tiniest amount, the ECU will double pulse the injectors. You can hear them make a click-click noise when it happens (over and above the steady clicking rate at idle).

'Twere me, coming from an engineering environment where ISO9001 rules and ruins our lives, if I were getting an engine back from the machine shop, I would want to see the record sheets for the measurements made at the end of the machining processes that shows conformance to the stated requirements.