GTSBoy

I like the crickets at the end. Very fitting. I don't think I would be worrying about your noise.

Yes. Input shaft is driven by the clutch whenever the clutch is engaged. Neutral just means that there's nothing meshed to the input shaft. My R33 box makes a truly enormous amount of rollover noise. Clutch in at idle and the background noise level drops appreciably.

Have spent some time there.

Dunno. Sounds like mine shutting off. The "clunk" is not really a clunk. It sounds like gearbox rollover noise coming to a stop. The hiss is also normal, and in they all do it. The options are; Air leaking in to a volume that is under vacuum (ie brake booster, or plenum chamber) through a small leak. The IACV would qualify as such a small leak into the plenum that would perhaps make that sound and you only hear it because all the other noise suddenly stops. Fuel flowing away through the reg as it closes up when demand from the injectors suddenly stops. Other such similar crap.

Just go to an import wrecker. They usually have dozens of them stacked up somewhere.

Well, you could look at it with all the obvious clues...... It's not an R32 engine, and the dump pipe won't accept an R32 O2 sensor. So, it is therefore either an R33 or R34 unit. So, you could just ask the parts supplier what thread is on each of those (likely to be the same for both) and just go from there. But now you bump up against the wiring problem. I have no idea about these specifically, but are the R32s 3 wire and the later ones 4 wire? Because you can't just go chuck a 4 wire onto a 3-wire loom. You're back to what Duncan said about matching the sensor to the ECU. If you have spare R32 dump pipes, your best bet might be to fit those. Then they will accept R32 sensors and the planets will align again.

And also, FWIW, any narrow band O2 sensor that has similar enough characteristics will work. I put one from an EL falcon (or somesuch similar shitbox) onto my R32 when it died a million years ago. These are not rocket science.

You may be best off trying to video this and find the best spot to put the camera/mic for us to hear it. And if you're going to go to that effort, you might end up putting the camera/mic in odd places, like on the ground next to the gearbox to see if the noise is coming from down there.

Need photo of it coming out from the Sim Lim Square carpark, or with Merlion and Marina Bay Sands in the background. Will also accept flying run on Sentosa Gateway, hard parked at Raffles or the fire station next to Fort Canning Park or video of a high speed run down Orchard Rd as proof.

No. That's the opposite. Early ones (RB20s, S1 RB25s) have a separate ignitor pack. Later ones are integrated.

yellowpages.com.au Still a way to find businesses that do certain things.

This thing called the Yellow Pages should help. There's got to be 20 options in Syd. If it's unreg, then you don't need to drive it on any given day, so take the rack out and take it to get reconditioned at the usual suspects and bring it back and put it back in. Easy. Tie rod ends separate with the use of 2x medium sized hammers. Look it up. I'd replace them at the same time. An R32 that old, they're bound to be a bit thrashed.

There's so much visible rust there that the windscreen lip is bound to have rusted.

Untuned and the mixtures are wrong. No surprises here.

No, it's not used for boost control. It's mostly for "don't f**k with me" engine protection function.

The ECU uses it pretty much only for 2 things. 1, to know that the engine is actually on boost. 2, to pull protective measures when the boost exceeds a max programmed in the ECU.

Space saver.

Plenum drains are in the corners. If they're blocked, you should see all the leaves & shit. A high pressure hose is a reasonable way to look for windscreen leaks.

If it's not a heater hose, the two obvious options are; Windscreen seal. Plenum chamber drains blocked.

Straps up and over the tyres, like a tow truck, is the most secure.

Townsville is about as far from Coffs as Adelaide is....so I'm guessing neither of us will. But it doesn't need to be a "good skyline ac guy". Any decent AC specialist will be able to suck it down and recharge it.

That's not actually true. Was clearly written by someone with half an understanding. What really happens is that the ECU leaves the values in the fuel table alone and DOES NOT modify them. It may or may not use them as the base for the calculated fuel qty that it will then apply the feedback factor from the O2 reading, and also apply the long and short term fuel trims if and as they exist. And how do I know? Well, the Functional Description documents that I have been writing recently for Burner Management Systems for a couple of different rotary kiln systems with fuel-air ratio control WORK IN EXACTLY THE SAME WAY. I even have a CO sensor in the kiln exhaust as a Safety Function. The capitalised names above are capitalised for a reason. A Safety Function is such a serious thing that we use capitals when writing about it. A Functional Description is what is used by the system integrator and programmer to write the PLC code. All of this is covered by AS 3814 and AS/IEC 61511. The words that are in all caps are just me shouting.

I used propane in mine for a while and it was great. But I eventually got the receiver-dryer changed over and ran R134a and it was fine. Slightly not as good, but nothing to complain about. "Seems to have gas" is not the same as "hooked up to a set of gauges and proven to have the right charge in it". If you swap to R134a, it is as Josh says above. Also need new adapters screwed onto the charge ports. R134a uses different fittings. Also needs different lube and a sticker on the inner guard.

Toluene is used as a paint thinner. Most HCs of this sort smell sweet to me. But that's just the old Chem. Eng. in me.

I vote the Profec also. Ultimately, they all do the same thing. Unless you're racing for sheep stations, there's little to split any of them.