GTSBoy

Is that because of large duration? Because otherwise they're not mutually exclusive, and VCT is worth a LOT of cam.

I said get the GTR manual

Correct assumption.

Squishy bushes are comfortable by sloppy. Poly bushes add a certain amount of NVH. Most Nissans older than yours have at least poly, if not alloy bushes all through the back end by now.

Download the R32 GTR service manual and look for the GTS4 auto wiring in the wiring diagrams (will be the same as what you have). Look for the shift interlock and start tracking it down from there. There is a manual release on these things, I think. Don't remember where it is though. Time and excuse enough for a manual conversion if you ask me!

You can spend the hours on the rods instead of Rand. Back in the bad old days, I spent many hours polishing ALFA rods and other things that it wasn't worth spending cubic $$ on new billet stuff for. And in those days, pre-Chinese manufacturing, anything aftermarket cost waaay too much anyway.

It'll be the same as Maxima or Pathfinder or something equally shitful.

Given that Whiteline have a poly bush kit (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Whiteline-Rear-Diff-Mount-Front-Bush-For-Nissan-Skyline-V35-V36-Stagea-M35/192741676619?fits=Model%3ASkyline&epid=1847214044&hash=item2ce04c964b:g:MS0AAOSwOI5dVAQV&frcectupt=true) available, I'd be sure that all the other usual suspects would too. Thus there should be no doubt that you can just flick the old Nissan elastogoosh bush and replace with something else.

f**king Stageas.

Why are you laughing. The clutch switch and the neutral switch are used by (manual) ECUs to help inform them of what you are doing. This is particularly the case where you are rolling along with a non-zero speed in either neutral or in gear with the clutch depressed. The ECU will keep the idle speed higher, to make it easier to clutch out and get moving again. Lack of these inputs tends to be a significant contributor to the idle-drop-and-stall that often happens on half arsed conversions. Both these are hooked up on my auto-man converted R32. Was true using the original RB20 (auto) ECU and is also true using the RB25Neo (auto) ECU that is in it now. I can see the signals for them come on in Nistune.

You should wired up everything that should have been wired up to a manual. Neutral switch, clutch switch. Make sure the IACV is working, etc etc.

Obvs the switch.

It sounds so incredibly wrong!

Interesting. Seems like a kooky version of the VL that was built a million years ago, but with more room for tyre! Not sure if I would have left it as an RB26 though. Needs to be at least an RB30, or a VH conversion like Benny's Stagea.

The simple answer is that they are nothing "special". They are Bilstein dampers, which makes them very nice, capable dampers that last a long time, can work across a fairly wide range of spring rates and soak up a lot of bumpiness with good comfort levels. They're basically a B8 equivalent, I think.

Caliper ears are the same thickness, mounting flanges are the same thickness. I'd tell you what they are, but I'll have to take a wheel off, and that ain't happening until at least the weekend!

Have you got a Skyline? Just go out and measure the ones on your car. Same same.

There is no inexhaustible supply of RB25DET Neo engines any more. Just sayin'.

And the math is trival. 409.5 km? 50L? The process is 100*50/409.5 = 12.2 L/100km. And that is a perfectly fine consumption rate. More or less exactly what I got on my last tank. Of BP. Never use anything else. Even Shell 98 is not as good.

Of course you can add to the main fusebox. But it really wants to be the sort of relay that actually fits in there, not some Autocheap/Superbarn Narva box. Same with fuse holders. You just have to get the stuff you need and put the effort in. Props for wanting to be neat and tidy about it. 99% of Skyline owners would just hang the new relay on 15' of wire and let it drag behind the car.

I can't imagine using any forum** on a phone. Typing is balls on any touchscreen. ** Website in general, unless in desperate need to look something up.

Take it to a workshop and get a trusted AFR meter stuffed up the tailpipe. You never trust a fresh install unless it matches something else that you trust. As to the boost.....~13 psi is what you'd expect. Maybe a bit more. As to the jerking. You need to run it with a fuel pressure gauge plumbed in and see what that says when it is playing up.

There's only 1mm difference between the 17x9 37 and the 17x9 38. Was a self answering question.

The hose is crimped onto the hardpipe ends. It's non-trivial to remove and refit.....unless you're at a hydraulics place.