GTSBoy

The fronts will fit just fine. The rears will also fit - I think. They will stick out 10mm more, which will likely end up with needing to roll the guards. I think the extra 15mm of wheel on the suspension side should clear everything. You won't be the first to have put 9" wheels on the back of an R32.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/663111095-OEM-Air-Conditioning-AC-Heater-Vent-Center-GTR-R32-BNR32-HCR32-GTST/183932436767?epid=21020833143&hash=item2ad33a411f:g:qbIAAOSwISNbjjM~

OK, so do some searching on here for the many words I have typed on the subject. Particularly you are looking for mentions of square wave and saw tooth and 0-1v and 0-5v and speedo and sender and so on. What I have written is largely true for R32s and R33s. I do not know anything about the S chassis speedos. I am under the impression that they used electronic senders and so they should work similarly to the R33 type stuff. But they may not. You should use what I have written on SAU as a primer to help get you started understanding how these things can work, and should use it is guidance for what to look for in how the S chassis stuff works.

Hi, Welcome, and maybe goodbye? The classifieds are at https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/56-for-sale-private-whole-cars-only/ Read the rules, post good photos & good luck.

You could just remove the assembly and take it to a hydraulic hose shop and they could put on a new bit of hose in a few minutes. Obviously you would discuss this with them in advance and show them the picture and book a time to walk it in.... But it would save you the arse raping that you'll probably have to endure to buy the whole thing.

Do you understand how the speed sensor in that gearbox works? And how the speedo receives that and handles it and passes a different version of it to the ECU?

What gearbox?

There should be a big fat feed wire to the fusebox. That's what provides power to all the relays and fuses. Find a way to tap that. Use decent heavy wire to run the power to the wideband and put a 15A fuse on it. The fuse it to protect the wire - not anything else. If the wire can handle 25A, and you have a 15A fuse on it, it is well protected. If you have a 10A fuse on a circuit that pulls 8+A, then you may be running the fuse quite hot - which is not always a good idea.

Let me guess. They are neither OEM Nissan, nor Splitfire. Do a search. Very recent thread on this very topic. One of 66666000000117663883534 such threads on here.

Just fit a fuel tank from a later model commonwhore. They fit easily enough. Much better internals.

Gears mesh. When gears don't mesh properly, gears destroy each other. Getting the gears to mesh properly is a non-trivial exercise, involving careful assembly, measurement, use of engineer's blue, shims, crush spacers, torque measurement and other lovely things that are far beyond the capability of your average home player. Get it assembled and set up by a diff/trans specialist.

3.7 and 3.9 crownwheel & pinion set from other diff can be bolted onto R33 centre. Don't do it yourself. Needs to be set up properly or you will destroy it.

Almost all of the electical systems in your car at at risk of death from the voltage regulator failing. The HICAS CU is probably burnt. Who knows what else is already damaged. Stop using it. Get it to an auto electrician. That means tow it.

It's been known to run flat 10s occasionally over the last few months. Mostly 10.5-11. Change of route to work has helped. Less stop-start. You'd be surprised how much difference wheel alignment can make too.

I get pissed off when mine is worse that 13, driving in heavy stop start traffic. R32 with Neo25DET. It has been running 11s lately. Heavy fuel consumption is very easy to achieve. Launch it, rev it, drive it around in 3rd when you should be in 5th. Pump the throttle up and down so that you never maintain a steady speed (like 95% of the morons on the road). All these things will make a Skyline suck the juice. Then there's the mechanical issues listed above.

Inquire from the authority who issued the permit? There is also the 15 year rule, which sidestepped a lot of compliance work.

Le sigh. Internet diagnosis is so much fun!

Nearly everybody who has a water cooled core is running water.

Put it on the dyno. Could be anything from ECU going into R&R, to AFM having a fault, boost solenoid cracking the sads. And a bunch of other things. These are so much easier to fault find if you can access the engine while it is under load (and faulting!).

All of them. Ever since they stopped looking like 90s cars.

I can't reconcile these concepts. Mazdas look f**king horrible with their excessively long front overhangs and bulbous protrusions sticking out all over the place.

I would suggest the Driveshaft shop. (the guys in NC, USA, that is). Expensive, but you will likely get exactly what is needed, with no compromises.

Any rack from any R32.

I'm not suggesting you don't buy it. If that's your particular sickness, go right ahead. I was just saying that for the vintage that they are, and the lack of them being particularly desireable to many (any?) people, they don't have any reason to demand more than beer money. On top of that, the difference between a Ti and a base model might be exactly nothing at all in real terms, after 35 years have gone by. So chuck a pineapple or two at him and then try to find some headlights. Could keep you busy for years!

Or... Just squirt some caulking gun adhesive/sealer up in there and push it up until it stays. /ghetto lyfe.