GTSBoy

Nope. By "regulator", I assume you mean the whole mechanism. The longer windows on the coupe mean they bolt to different place in the door and have the runners arranged differently.

No. Now that you have to buy a gearbox, buy one that won't shit itself behind an RB25. Buy an R33 gearbox. Spend more money, yes gasp, more money, on the box, and a little extra on getting the tailshaft cut and shut.

Oh f**k. Really? Of course it's illegal. f**king stupid.

Sounds like one of those WOFTAM bitsi turbos with both T3 and T4 bolt holes. Cheap shitty idea.

More force. Break the boot if you have to. Fix accordingly. It's the cost of doing something not-so-clever.

Is it sitting on the engine mounts correctly? If it is, then that is the position and that will determine the length of the tailshaft. However the position ends up as a function of the above mounts, you then can usually choose between the 3 different Nissan S & R chassis gearbox mounts (marked A, B & C) to get one that will line up with both the gearbox and the chassis holes. But this does not affect the tailshaft length. If you haven't got the engine sitting on the mounts in the engine bay properly, start there. That may then lead to you being able to use the stock tailshaft. If not...... I don't know if this is true or not, but it quite possible that the front half of the auto tailshaft is a different length to the manual tailshaft, and maybe something dodgy was done when the car was manual converted previously.

Will be further away from the surge line when feeding a larger engine. More airflow at the same boost is further to the right on the comp map.

I think he's saying that the S15 s slightly heavier than the S14, so why would he choose an S15 over an S14? My answer would be because the S15 is a much better car. He's then asking if there are any advantages of the S15 over the R33....because something something to do with the weight difference between an RB25DE and an SR20VE. And then claiming that S15 and R33 weigh the same if they have the same engine in them. Which is not quite true, because with turbos etc, an R33 GTST is at least 100kg heavier than an S15.

Remember that EMAP is a function of how hard you need to drive the compressor. The only reason for EMAP to go a lot higher on the 3L bottom end than the 2.5 is if you try to make a lot more power. If you start with the same power as a target, you will almost certainly need less boost, and this could even result in a reduction in EMAP (because boost costs more drive power in a compressor than flow does). I wouldn't stress. They're still baby cams too, and you have gears, so you're insulated against the unlikely outcome of needing to deal with reversion.

S15.

That car is perfect.

Its function is to open up when cold to allow a lot of extra air through to give you your cold fast idle. It is electrically heated and closes up as it (and presumably) the engine warms up. After that the normal idle control valve takes over (but is not necessarily large enough to flow enough air to give the required cold fast idle). What are you using for management and idle control? If using aftermarket ECU and a TB with a decent stepper motor idle control valve (or good separate idle control valve) then you could get rid of this one. But if you just ditch it without taking that sort of thing into consideration, it might be a bit grumpy when cold.

In that case.....Nistune is great. Runs an RB properly. There are some extra hurdles to jump sometimes, particularly with Neos, because the factory ECU started to get loaded up with extra sensors and protections that need to be worked around. A Link, or any equivalent aftermarket ECU will be able to do things that you just can't do with Nistune, like run auxiliary shit, extra boost control function, etc etc. By the same token, the Nissan ECU can penetrate the noise you get in the Nissan CAS signal far better than Haltechs can - because Nissan are responsible for both halves of the system and put a lot of effort into filtering the noise. Effort that Haltech probably haven't, because Haltech have to make their stuff work with a zillion CAS types. And where I know Haltech is not as good in that area, it is fair to assume that others, like Link, might suffer compared to the stocker. There's compromises to the left and to the right, regardless of which path you choose.

Thirsty RB25 + boost + massive land barge <> economical operation!!!!!!

I don't think you can Nistune an S1 Stagea ECU. Same-ish as R33, no?

Where a 265/30-19 has almost exactly the same rolling radius (321mm) as a 235/45-17 (321.5mm), the 265/35-19 is somewhat taller, at 334mm. That's nearly 4% more, which will give a speedo error (reading slower) of that much. What is the stock tyre size for an R34? Is it 225/45-17? If so, then all the radiuses I've listed above are actually a little taller even than the stock tyre, which is only 317mm. So the error for the 265/35 over the stock tyre is a bit more than 5%. These aren't huge problems. Just worth keeping in mind.

Have you thought about how low the tyre profile would need to be to run 19s without significantly increasing the rolling radius? For 235 wide, you'd need 35 profile tyres to match the 235/45-17 that is pretty much perfect on a 17. 35 profile tyres are not great for a regular street car (in terms of protecting the rims from potholes, etc, nor for comfort). If you try to go up to 265 width, you'd need to go down to 30 profile to get the same sidewall height. Not shitcanning the idea of 19s, just pointing out the consequences. You would use a 40 and a 35 for each of the above widths on an 18" rim.

Fix the VQ35.

If the R230 from the Z32 is viscous, then I would suggest that they would be different to the GTR stubs. The GTR is a mech centre and the splines will be equal length. R200 VLSDs have unequal length splines on the stubs, and whilst I don't know for sure that an R230 VLSD would also have unequal length, I would suggest it would be likely. If the Z32 R230 is mechanical, then it really should all be swappable with the GTR one. Having said that.....the R33 GTR will have ABS stubs won't it? And the Z32 didn't have it?

I'm not sure how that can be true. I put an R33 RB25DE box into my R32. The R32 cable drive sender went into that one as if it was the same same. Which it, of course, was. But you still have to make a cable speedo drive for the big box, which I did when I put the R33 turbo box in. So I can't see the elec sender for the R33 DE box being the same piece as the R33DET box.

I would pay the 2K for the rebuild. It's $3300 for a brand new R34 box (which you could use but only with the cost of another clutch). No, you can't use the RB20DET speed sender. The R32 was cable drive. To use an R33 box in an R32 we have to make a cable drive adapter using something from a Navarra. I'm not sure that work has been done to try to fit an electronic sender into an RB20DET box. Having said that, the same box was used in NA R33s, so maybe they had an electronic drive. Just don't know, because don't care about NA cars!

It'll go in. You will need to modify your tailshaft - which should be enough reason to not do it. The 20DET box is the same box as the 25DE, so they do fit natively in the R33. So you can use the front half of an NA car's tailshaft to mod yours. You will probably need to choose the appropriate gearbox crossmember from the available options (A, B or C) and you will need to consider whether you could make the speedo work (hint, unlikely). And....if you have boosted the RB25 at all, expect the box to last about a year before the input shaft bearing starts to carry on.

And? Should still shoot flames.

I have no idea what works with the stupid Stagea auto situation.

200rwkW is possible (just) without a turbo upgrade. The turbos you have mentioned are good for >250 and will be wasted at ~200. There are better, more modern, less noisy pumps these days. Mostly Walbros still. Worth considering other options. If you're buying 1000cc injectors, make sure that they are really good ones. You won't be needing that much capacity for your power targets, but you will need good ECU control over low pulsewidths. There are bad choices of injectors out there with poor matching, poor low pulsewidth spray patterns, etc.