GTSBoy

You're on the north side Adam? Go see Brenton at Fours N More. He'll hate me for sending another dirty Nissan to him, but he should be able to sort you out.

Take it** to a brake workshop. Give it to them with a small handful of money (like, <$200 worth) and wait a couple of days. Presto, rebuildo. ** The booster.

Have you at least got Nistune in the ECU so you don't have to put up with fault codes from butchering the TCS? And what makes you think that there should be 12V? Most ECU sensors are run from 5V. Plug your R34 TB back into the loom and see what you see from that. Then go forward from there.

And what state is the charge at? Have you considered that it might have a leak and has let some gas out?

Same as every other such question. Get it inspected thoroughly. If it comes through that without any red flags, just buy it. None of them are going to be perfect. They're nearly 30 years old now. And whatever red flags come up, just pay accordingly.

You can buy this stuff just about anywhere. Ebay, Amayama, Kudos, Just Jap, etc etc. You are looking for bushes for your front upper arms and you are looking for HICAS rack ends (if you want to waste you money putting a useless system back into service) or a complete HICAS delete kit if you want to improve the car.

It's all SAU. What "other forum" are you talking about?

Look for the problem elsewhere. 0. Real zero vacuum and idle are incompatible.

Are you kidding? Flat piece of plate, maybe 5mm thick. Cut to shape. Drill holes. Job done?

ECM is ECU. so you'll find it where the ECU lives in any Nissan. MPS is a Mazda......

Although 265 is a little baggy for a 9" rim. I wouldn't do it except on a Torana.

Hammers fix this. Literally. Don't hit the end of the thread.

Nah, you can run GTR wheels on a GTSt, with only a tiny poke. They're just about perfect, actually.

If the brake booster is f**ked, as I suggest it is, then that is exactly the consequence you would expect.

You got it backwards. He's asking about putting skinny guards onto a GTR!

Yes and yes. Cooler obviously needs to be properly thermostated to avoid a huge waste of time. Oil plumbing can start to get a little complicated with the addition of all these things though.

My guess is unpleasantly loud. Have heard VQs that would have had at least a muffler delete, if not that and the decat, and they are ant-social.

The 200N of tension is the literal stretch tension in the belt. That's the tension that the spring in the tensioner should apply before you lock it up, and should therefore also be the same tension in the belt after it is locked up, until it stretches a bit. The 1/4 turn thing is going to vary according to the belt. Some might be a little more flexible than others. Just pushing straight on the belt should produce a little deflection, but not a lot, and you should be able to push pretty damn hard without the belt moving a lot. Beyond that, it's not really possible to do it up too tight unless you do the wrong thing with the hex key while tightening up the tensioner. You shouldn't be trying to add much force to what the spring provides.

Are you reading something different to what I'm reading. At no point does it say "It can't be done". He says "It's difficult, for these reasons". He then goes on to say "We're trying something new", implying that they have a design that they think should work, "but we won't push it out until we're happy". You'd think that English was no longer taught in schools the way that comprehension skills have fallen.

Not true. They're pretty good. I would suggest that your 2nd hand booster is no good. Get it rebuilt.

You could bolt them on. But the inner guards would have to come out. Depending on the side skirts, the ones on the car might not fit nicely. I think the indicators might be different in some way too (but don't quote me).

30 over 20 EVERY DAY.

I suspect that thinking 1050s can do 1200 engine HP is probably pushing them right to their ragged limits. Assume 1HP per injector cc on a 6 cylinder for a safer bet. Maybe you can make more than 1100HP without exceeding sensible injector duties....depending on AFRs etc. So, the real question is, how much power can you even make on -5s? ~600 on 98. A bit more with E85? Say 700? That's a steep enough discount from the ~1100 HP you could flow through the injectors on 98, to think that they should have the capacity to do it on E85, I would think. I'm with your injector supplier. Y splitter will be fine. Just try to keep the line lengths fairly similar after the splitter, just to eliminate any bias.

All the above. RS4 is good. I have them on my 32 now. They replaced Kumho V720. I think the V720 was actually a better tyre (grip & handling wise), but the V720 was so f**king noisy that I will never ever contemplate using them again. The worst tyre noise I have ever had to live with. Had AD08Rs before the V720s. I still have fond memories of those. If you can trust my memory over a period of 2-3 years, I suspect that the ADO8R is probably better than the RS4 also. I expect to be chased by the Hankook fanbois carrying pitchforks now. I never drove on the RS3s, so have no way to know if the RS4s are as good (or better, or worse) than the RS3s - but I just don't feel that the RS4s are head and shoulders above any of the other good tyres I've used. RE003s are not a performance tyre. Very disappointing compared to stickier tyres. And didn't even have the life that you'd want to compensate for not being as sticky. Can't comment personally on Achilles 123, but I know several people who rave about their performance even without making it relative to their low cost. There are others too. Whatever Falken's replacement for the FK452 is, is supposed to be good. Dunlop's latest tyre in the same space is supposed to be OK. It's one of the Direzzas or something. I think these are mostly available in 17".

No, not really. A noid light connects to the injector plug directly. Both power and pulsed earth should be present right there. You don't need to go to the battery. And an old fashioned globe type test light probably won't be fast enough. If you get no flashes at the injector plugs, you can move your test backwards to the ECU's injector pins, but then you will need to provide power to the noid light and a test probe for the ECU from the other side of the light. This would just be to check the loom. You wouldn't expect to get a different result (from the injector end of the loom) unless the loom was torched somewhere in the middle.