GTSBoy

You can lead a whore to culture, but you can't make her think.

Yeah, I wasn't even going to go there!

Wires direct from head unit to the speakers? Couldn't be that easy.

Hmmm. Hydrophilic. Hydraulic. They were just red top NICS RB20s.

On the subject of the gearbox. 33 & 34 25 boxes are essentially the same thing but the pull clutch on the 34 box is more annoying (less choices) than the push. If you have the choice of a good 33 box, probably the wisest choice. Mind you, if starting from scratch and having to buy - the argument for a brand new box is strong.

Always easier to use the correct loom to suit the engine and the correct type of ECU (ie, RB26 both) and make the changes to the engine loom where it interfaces with the car, than it is to bastardise a loom and use the wrong sort of ECU, etc etc. You can do it any which way. But some don't make as much sense. The weird solutions usually come about because somebody already has X and is too tight or too lazy to do it properly.

Great. and have you remembered that we have all told you that it is very unlikely that a Neo turbo auto ECU will drive your auto? Because the auto is wired up to your old TCU and the new TCU is in the ECU and there shouldn't be any magic that would make one think it is the other? Aaaaaand - given that you heard about the secret squirrel trick on these forums referring to other posts on these forums.....why don't you keep searching until you find it yourself?

This is an Impul ECU for a manual turbo car? Are you going to be happy driving around in 3rd gear only?

I have an R32, so I have an R32 AC control unit, which we can see from the wiring diagrams above does things a little differently to the R33 one. I have an R34 ECU, so the pins are all different to both of the above. And, getting the AC to work after the engine transplant was a major exercise. We had to do some things with relays and other tricks with the pressure switch. So my car is not able to serve as an example that I can measure stuff off for you. Further to that, You should put a multi-meter onto the terminals in question and determine if they have 12V or ground on them, before trying to put any 12v or ground of your own onto them. If you put raw 12v onto a terminal which is continuous to ground, you are making a high current short circuit and can fry shit. Similarly, if you simply ground a pin with 12V on it, you can be making a short that will burn shit up. You can also use a test light to see what's what on those terminals. Close examination of the wiring diagrams can also inform you of which way the ECU terminals are most likely to work. They USUALLY act as the earth end of a switching circuit. But some do not (like some of the fuel pump outputs.)

Like one wire running alongside the other in the same loom. No other relationship.

Takes an hour.

There are wires that run from the console back to the amp. These can be made to connect to speakers instead. But FWIW, just get the seats out of the car and put some new speaker cable in.

Paul, I think you missed this important part. 25L would be nice. 28L would be getting bad. 32L is pretty gross.

O2 sensor likely dead.

In the RB20DET engine loom the O2 sensor wiring runs with the PS switch wiring. I had the O2 sensor cause the wire to burn, which damaged the PS wire which left me with heavy steering. They are not related electrically in any way except for the fact that they run side by side.

Does not work for RB20DET and is not necessary. The RB20DET does not use the TPS potentiometer to determine closed throttle position. There is a switch. You can manually adjust the TPS position so that the switch actuates at the slightest opening of the throttle. Do that and you are gold. If you lean over the engine and open the throttle, you will hear the injectors double pulse. That's the ECU's response to seeing the TPS come off the switch. You want to hear that at the tiniest movement. Tiny.

This from the R32GTR service manual which is fairly freely downloadable from the net. (and I actually copied and pasted from a thread that was last active on these forums about 3 hours ago.)

Dunno, but seems likely.

Well......that's a whole 'nother story. Because the AC controller doesn't necessarily just throw the compressor on as soon as you power it up, or even press the A/C switch. You have to have the upstream conditions satisfied. Things like the refrigerant pressure switch and so on. If you've got borked wiring in other parts of your conversion then all bets are off. You can jumper shit out until it runs and then see what it took to make it happen. Oh, and in my previous post, where I said "chuck 12V into", I would probe first with a multimeter and see if there is power there already, because if there is then you should supply an earth at that point to make things happen.

Well, you could try poking 12V into ECU pin 46 and see if you get 12V out pin 9. It should also idle up when you do that. If all that works then look to the signal that should be coming from the AC controller. If it doesn't work, then ponder whether you've got pin 9 even hooked up! And so on. If the ECU is broken in some way (not the wiring), you could probably trigger the AC relay direct out of the AC controller, but then you won't get idle up.

Nooooooo. You have an RB20 ECU. Forget pin 36. You have to talk to your ECU on pin 9 and 46. I think the AC controller tells the ECU on 46 and the ECU switches the compressor out of 9. All you need is to hook the ECU up to appropriate wire out of the R33 controller.

No, look again properly. The top AC controller on the R32 diagram is the manual controller. That has a thermoswitch to run that signal. Follow the wire down further from there to the two different fully auto climate control options, and on one of them it connects to pin 10 and on the other it connects to pin 15. (actually, I just saw that there's a thermo amplifier involved in the pin 10 version controller also, but nevermind, because it doesn't really change the fact that it originates at the AC controller). I didn't know that there were 2x climate control systems in R32s, but it doesn't really matter. Either way, these both have a signal coming out of the AC controller that goes to the ECU, and coincidentally, the flag 6 at the AC pressure switch in the top RHS of the drawing also goes to flag 6 on the ECU, pin (hard to read, but could be) 8, I think. Looking at the ECU pinout above, it looks like it would be 9.

Yes, so, what you want is the ECU pin on the R32 RB20DET ECU that the R32 AC controller sends its signal to. Whatever pin it is. Then bang the signal from the R33 AC controller in. Unless they are not compatible in some way (because of doing things backwards relative to each other, for example). On that R32 wiring diagram there are 3x different AC controllers shown, towards the RH end. At the top of that you will see the AC relay. viz If you follow the wires down from that towards the full auto controllers, you will see that one of them comes out of T10 on one controller and T15 on the other. At the top end of that wire there is a flagged 21. You can see it in the image above. On the ECU end of the diagram there is also a flagged 21. That is ECU pin 46, which coincidentally, is the same pin identified on any RB20 ECU pinout, like this one. I'm sure if you study the way that these are hooked up you should be able to mimic it with the R33 controller.

No. I have already told you that. The 25DET auto ECU has the TCU inside it. Your transmission is currently wired up to a completely separate TCU on the other side of the car. Putting another TCU into the car isn't going to help anything, and the DET ECU does not expect to talk to a TCU that is outside the ECU, so there's little that you can do. You could try - but you would be venturing into the wilds where no-one has reportedly been before. Probably because it probably doesn't work. Your best bet would be to convert to manual, because it will remove all these annoyances. As far as I know, there is no Nistune option for the RB25DE, which would have been a nice way to try to make it work because you could tune it to run the turbo engine and it would still talk to the TCU. I'm still voting for manual conversion. Either that, or you have to look into alternative (aftermarket) TCUs for the tranny. They exist, but that's a whole 'nother set of issues.

No vapour lock likely. Fuel is just getting warm from getting hammered around through the pump, lines, fuel rail, reg, back, over and over and over. I would concur that the pump appears to have a problem.