GTSBoy

Use a good spray pack wheel cleaner. Non-acid very important. Will also need to scrub with scourer pads or similar. Should at least keep them waxed every wash, to keep brake dust etc off. There are other protectant thingos you can buy to put on wheels to keep the environment at bay, although I think the ceramic coat things go on painted surfaces only, not alloy.

Mine is "The Domestic Authority".

Put fuel pressure gauge onto it and report behaviour.

$2.5K is the right price point to be asking this question.

Sounds like a fantasy. They should be the same. Also should be the same as the R33. The only reason to do this is to get rid of HICAS before proper HICAS eliminators became available.

I think that 10:1 on 98 should be perfectly doable. It's the same as any other (more) modern engine. It comes down to getting the fuel-air mixing right and having top notch management. You should be able to make the same power either way (lower CR, more boost, or vice-versa). Even if you can't quite make the same peak, the high CR engine is going to do everything else better (off boost, spooling) and will be a good thing. Then there's WMI. The answer to most problems.

Yuh, there's no wire in a wiper blade that I can think of, so pics would be good.

I can't imagine that anyone would be upset. Just not in Forced Induction.

That's he core of Kiwi's question. Have you actually looked into whether the stock ECU can be tuned? I didn't think there were that many places doing flashes on them. Mail order flash tunes are to be avoided.

Well, we didn't know that the coils and pump were new.... Given that, they are less likely to be causing your problem. Running without O2 feedback is definitely a problem unless you are under high load all the time. It will cruise on O2 feedback, and if it doesn't have it, the mixtures could just be lean enough to whiten the plugs. But, that won't cause a miss at 6000 under load. And, you really really should not be leaning on an engine that has had breathing mods etc, without having it tuned**. Just asking for trouble. And given that, the number of possible causes for your shenanigans goes up by a large number. Put it on a dyno. Even if not for the tune, at least to try to fault find in a controlled environment. **I will stipulate that your mods are not all that extreme and many cars have had mods just like that without a tune because it's not like you've ported it and put cams in and wound the boost up to 11ty. Just sayin', mods + no tune + misbehaviour is not an unexpected combination.

2 photos are a little darker on the insulator than the others. That would tend to suggest that if there's any fueling issue, it's not across the whole engine (ie, not necessarily related to the pump or tank level). Maybe the pale ones are all lean and somehow the dark ones are not....but that's a stretch. Anyway, It's not caused by the plugs. They all look fine enough. The darker plugs may be being caused by the coils on those (that?) plug being weak. You can't guess this stuff though. The smart move is to put a fuel pressure gauge onto it and run it under load to see what the pump is doing. Wideband up the tail pipe at the same time will help. Knock ears on at the same time will also be good. You can get it nice and hot on a dyno to see if it happens only when warm enough.

I thought it looked more S2.5+ than Neo, but photos aren't sufficient to convince. It certainly does not have the R34 Neo throttlebody on it. If it is a vanilla RB25, then it will have come out of an R33 Skyline**. If it is somehow AWD in the Patrol, then it would have come from a Stagea**. There are a couple of other choices of vehicles that the engine could have come out of, but not to the extent that it would make any difference.

On that basis, we could trot out the passive aggressive claim that no-one has ever asked that question on this forum before and that it would be impossible to search for previous/recent discussion.

Ugh. No. It looks like a Mazda 6 had buttsecks with a Lexus.

The country, located south of Albania, East of Greece, North of Syria and Iraq and west of Iran is word filtered to "the sphincter of the universe" and has been for many many years. It didn't used to be fair, but it kind of is these days. I forgot about it when typing an unrelated use of the name of that country to represent a large, noisy bird with ugly wattles and beady eyes.

Just put one of those whistles they use in the US for hunting the sphincter of the universes onto it.

It's only an 86. Can't you just stick a few rows of gaffa tape across the rear window? #ghettolyf

Seems related to shimming VLSDs. Same level of mechanical respekt. Fo shizzle.

I'd say that any RB build into a Patrol is a horrible waste. Big lumpy tank needs a big lumpy motor. LS is smart option for defs. If you must have Nissan, start at VH41 or 45 and work your way up from there. 41 with a turbo on 8-10 psi will be enormously torquey. See Skid Factory for turbo diesel shenanigans in Patrol. See MCM for turbo VH41 in Stagea.

I would suggest that there aren't any with and without, unless there was a change to the way Nissan did things between S1 & S2. More likely that GTTs all had it (because they have the full fat steering system with HICAS) and that the lesser models might have had a rack without, because of not having speed sensitive steering, for example. Doesn't matter. Yours has the switch, therefore.....yours needs the switch. Have you got the manual for your car? Wiring diagrams are enormously instructive.

Pressure switch is required.

A ported head will really really benefit from the extra lift. You'll be stifling it and giving away a LOT of power. I'd do it (buy cams), and I'm allergic to spending money. Camtech.....I'm a bit WTF!? at the moment. I just went to look at their site and they don't show RB26 cams. What am I missing? If I was to use their RB25 Neo cams offerings as a guide, I'd suggest...actually nothing. I'd want a 10mm lift at least, on the 264s°. Unigroup do an 11mm lift on 260°. They have others (less lift, but I'm not sure exactly what's on offer) too. I'd be thinking that if your head is all coming off and apart, then whatever is needed done to fit those (in case any more clearancing is required) would be worth it. Kelfords (Christchurch) have a couple of options. This https://www.kelfordcams.com/nz/camshafts/nissan/rb26dett/182-b-camshaft-set.html is 260° & 10mm. They will also custom up a cam. So if you wanted something with 10.5 mm of lift (they have some, but with more duration than you seem to want), they could be persuaded to cook something up.

R32 bushes in my shed are SPF1639K, and have 45mm long crush tubes. No other dimension on the bushes is anywhere near as big as 45mm, let alone 50mm. https://www.superpro.com.au/find/superpro-bushing-kit/orphan-SPF1639K SuperPro don't list very much for the Cefiro, so I would just use the R32 part.

Yuh, but that's just the purchase price of the cams. On top of which you have to throw money at the workshop to open the engine up and swap them and do the clearances (and probably some tuning). Once all that is on top, the extra money for a proper cam is not actually that big an increment.

You have front LCA bush in the thread title, rear LCA bush in the body. Probably best if you clarify. Having said that, I'm pretty sure I have seen this asked before (and not sure if I have seen any answers), and I am not sure that there actually is 2 choices of size. The A31 rear end is the same as on R32s, and they only have 1 size that I know of. I think I have a set of spare rear lowers (SuperPro) in bags in the shed. I'll try to remember to put the calipers on them when I get home.