GTSBoy

That looks like the ribbon (or whatever the real multi-line connector) that carries the signal from the display electronics into the screen got loose and probably fully detached. Just take it apart and have a look. You might see something easy to put back!

No, you can't. Just take it to an air-con shop and get it checked and/or fixed. But note that they cannot do it unless it is actually a working system! You need to be able to run the compressor to check the system pressures. If there is no gas, then your pressure switch will keep the compressor from starting, but you sound like you have a lot more work to do first.

Yes, but, my impression was that anyone who would ask how to repair a fuel tank should not be told to weld it.

Stock photo in Japanese junkyard at the time.

Gorilla snot. (otherwise known as knead-it, or other metal filled epoxy putties).

This is one instance where right is wrong.

I put slotted (the ones with dimples also) RDAs onto my car, against advice (and also against my own opinion, but I thought I'd try them anyway). I'm not sure I'm convinced by the pedal feel. Probably wouldn't do it again. FWIW though, I don't think that slots are guaranteed to make rotors crack more/worse. Not like drilled holes do, anyway. They might increase the chances of cracks on discs that get the shit kicked out of them, but not on a streeter.

Sorry, I thought I had a fused relay.

Nup, because the exhaust is on the wrong side on Toyo motors and that makes life hard.

104 is correct. It's not hard to drag a cable through the ECU loom's gland in the corner of the firewall. Just need to remove as much as you can to make it possible to poke a stiff lead wire through alongside the loom and then tape on and pull back. This is how I have all the extra wiring for my boost control solenoid, exhaust pyro, etc coming through there (R32 with Neo also).

Still won't be as bad as V720 though!

I'd say he's got bigger problems than the blend door though....

Why f**k about? There are whole Morimoto (and other) HID transplants you can do. Well documented. 9000% better than leaving any of the original shit in there.

Yes. But shit fan or not, it still shouldn't overheat while just driving around. Low power + moving car should be enough air through the radiator. Also shit radiator.

It's actually really difficult to do this legally. Precious few aftermarket rails are legal without being engineered. Same with seats. The cheapy eBay Brides and other similar seats that claim to be "ADR" approved are frequently the shittest quality, so the whole ADR thing must be a massive lie with them. Probably the only sure fire way would be to enquire of an engineer in your state about what's required. I'd say that going to a motor trimmer and getting Recaros + rails (for lots lotsa $$) would have to include whatever engineering signoff was needed. You could try asking them.

Parcel shelf cannot be removed without removing rear seat. Rear seat takes 3 minutes to remove.

This is a Nissan Skyline forum based in Australia. Not liking your chances that much. But, welcome anyway.

You could try to work out what size yours need and compare with what size these universal ones claim to be and/or search fleabay for the actual size you need, if it turns out to be different, which would surprise me no end.

Wot? Like this?

So what was wrong with the old one?

They're holding the AFM to the airbox. Seeing as you've loosened the hose clamp, if you want to slip the AFM off the inlet pipe, to make it easier to work on the AFM to airbox on the bench/lap/whatever, then just pulling the AFM out of the hose would be a good start.

Spray some window cleaner or similar at the hose joint and wiggle.

Probably goes around to the Consult port, no?

It's the headlight switch on the instrument binnacle. Dismantle, clean contacts.